Been reading alot of these posts. Grandsons early 99 f250 PSD has the no start also. I'll keep this short 'cause not sure if I am doing the post right.
Already done: cleaned tank & put in new sender,pick-up unit. new fuel pump. New fuel heater & cleaned bowl. Cleaned fuel pressure reg. New fuel filter. New cps. Adapted fuel pressure guage at fuel bowl, 55 psi. (spring may be weak). My scanner will not do diesels so I had a hose & 3000 psi guage made at hydro store. I know the icp is bad (oil in plug) so I screwed hose in icp hole. While cranking it shows 1500-1800 psi (not good huh ? Does icp send an ohm signal to pcm ? signal voltage at ipr is 12 volts. If the pcm sees less ohms does the voltage at ipr drop ? Worked on cars since 1964 but no diesels.
Thanks Dave

 

Welcome to FTE and the world of computer controlled diesels.

First some background so things make a little sense. The IPC is a sending unit. It reads oil pressure in the rail and sends it to the PCM. If you unplug the ICP sensor, the computer will ignore the readings and assume default values, so the truck will start just fine with the sensor unplugged.

The IPR is a valve that partially closes off the flow of oil forcing more oil and pressure into the rails. Kind of like putting your finger over a garden hose to increase pressure. As you crank, the IPR will close off more and more to increase the pressure in the rails.

It takes 500 psi in the rails to start, so that means your (his) IPR is working well enough to allow the truck to start. 55 psi is more than enough fuel pressure to start too.

Now a few questions for you. When you crank the truck, does the tach move any?

Is the engine oil level full?

Any smoke coming out the tailpipe while cranking?

Does the WTS (wait to start) light come on for a few seconds and then go off?

Have you double checked all the fuses both under the steering wheel and under the hood? Tried swapping relays around?

Did the truck die, or just not start one day?

 

Tach moves; oil full; have some whiteish smoke if cranked very long; wts light comes on, then off; fuses all checked & relays swaped.
Truck started losing, he pulled off road and would not start. Towed home and did tank unit; fuel pump;cps; It started that night was driven about 15 miles and seemed ok. next night he started went 10-12 miles shut it off got his wife in and started. It ran crapy & died.
thanks

 

OK, let's start working through some checks. A scanner that can monitor live data would be nice, but let's see what we can do with out throwing money at it. Be sure to keep the batteries on a charger and monitor voltage while cranking. The glow plugs can easily draw down 1 volt or so when they come on, and cranking can drop it another point or two. We sometimes start seeing problems if voltage drops below 10.5 volts while cranking.

Is there any way to get a better description of how the truck lost power? Is there any chip or tuner in the truck? When you start to crank, how long does it take to reach 1500 psi at the ICP sensor location on your gauge?

Check the oil level in the HPOP reservoir. It's the rectangular box in front of the fuel filter bowl. It has an inspection plug on the right hand side. Oil level should be within an inch or so of the top.




When the engine did run, did the CEL stay on? How does the exhaust sound while cranking? Any whine or jet engine type noise that might signify a restriction like a stuck exhaust back pressure valve or a collapsed air filter that is clogging the intake to the turbo?

Does anyone know anybody with another Ford 7.3 that maybe some parts could be swapped out on?

 

air filter is new;don' remember about cel; no whine or noise from exhaust; only parts i found to swap was an idm; chip unpluged already; takes about 3-6 sec. to hit 1500 psi;oil in hpop is with in 1 " of top. been keeping charger on batts. stays above 10.5 while cranking. Does icp send restance value to pcm ?

 

Short answer. No, it provides voltage.

Long answer

<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="V2C%7Eus%7Een%7Efile=V2Cstyle.htm%7Egen%7Ere f.htm"><table cellspacing="0" width="95%"> <tbody> <tr> <td> DC: Injection Control Pressure (ICP) Sensor
Introduction
</td> <td align="right" width="25%">
</td></tr></tbody></table>Signal Functions The injection control pressure (ICP) sensor is a variable capacitance sensor that, when supplied with a 5-volt reference signal from the powertrain control module (PCM), produces a linear analog voltage signal that indicates pressure.

The ICP sensor's primary function is to provide a feedback signal to indicate rail pressure so that the PCM can command the correct injector timing and pulse width and the correct injection control pressure for proper fuel delivery at all speed and load conditions.
Detection/Management If the PCM detects a malfunctioning ICP sensor (sensor out of range high or low), the CHECK ENGINE light is illuminated and the PCM will go to open loop control of injection control pressure. (Operate from an estimated injection control pressure.)
Note

After removing connector, check for damaged pins, corrosion, loose terminals, etc.
<title>Injection Control Pressure (ICP) Sensor</title><link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="V2C%7Eus%7Een%7Efile=V2Cstyle.htm%7Egen%7Ere f.htm">
Pigtail wiring:
GY/R wire is signal return
DB/LG is ICP signal
BR/W is vref



<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="V2C%7Eus%7Een%7Efile=V2Cstyle.htm%7Egen%7Ere f.htm"><table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <th align="middle" valign="bottom">Pressure (PSI) </th> <th align="middle" valign="bottom">Pressure (MPA) </th> <th align="middle" valign="bottom">Sensor Voltage </th></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">0 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">0 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">0.02 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">200 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">1.5 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">0.4 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">400 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">3 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">0.73 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">600 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">4 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">0.96 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">800 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">5.5 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">1.2 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">1000 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">7 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">1.4 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">1200 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">8 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">1.6 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">1400 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">9.7 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">1.9 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">1600 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">11 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">2.1 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">1800 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">12.4 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">2.3 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">2000 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">13.8 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">2.6 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">2200 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">15.2 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">2.8 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">2400 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">16.5 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">3 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">2600 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">18 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">3.3 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">2800 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">19.3 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">3.5 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="middle" valign="top">3000 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">20.6 </td> <td align="middle" valign="top">3.8
</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

Well i would jump in here but looks like Chris has got ya going good just listen to him e knows these trucks inside and out!

 

Thanks Chris, I'll check icp pigtails when I get a hood ready to paint for a friend. Does the voltage vary to the ipr to raise or lower the pressure ? If this comes from the pcm could the pcm be bad ? This truck is kickin' my butt.

 

The IPR receives a modulated 12v signal from the PCM, so it varies, but it's an on/off signal between 0 and 12 so the frequency is what controls it, which I doubt you'll be able to see or interpret with a multi meter.

As stated earlier, the truck is able to start and run with only 500 psi in the head, so ICP and IPR issues would be low on the suspect list, but check the pigtail on both for chaffed wires or burnt insulation. Also check to make sure the tin nut is still on the back of the IPR holding the soleniod in place.

Tell me more about the chip. What brand is it? Was the key in the ignition when the chip was removed? If the key was in the ignition and a chip is pulled, you can damage both the chip and the PCM.

How did the truck die when it first started having problems? Like the key was shut off, spit and sputter, just loose power and fall on it's face? Was it raining or had it recently rained?

 

Checked icp pigtails, they are all tight,no damage. Tin nut is on ipr. Key was out of ignition. All I can see on chip is klc 2404 eec tuning module. After starting to loose power (about to fall on its face) he pulled in lot turned it off and put a new fuel filter in. Thanks Chris, the water is starting to clear some. Almost forgot no rain.

 

Checked icp pigtails, they are all tight,no damage. Tin nut is on ipr. Key was out of ignition. All I can see on chip is klc 2404 eec tuning module,was told it looks like a bullydog. After starting to loose power (about to fall on its face) he pulled in lot turned it off and put a new fuel filter in. Thanks Chris, the water is starting to clear some. Almost forgot no rain.

 

Since you've got acceptable oil pressure in the head, and sufficient fuel pressure, we're quickly running out of things you can check without a scanner.

You might post what city and state you're in on the off chance there is a fellow forum member nearby that has a scanner that will work.

Hopefully everyone else stops being so shy and chimes in with other suggestions. In the mean time, I'd suggest you check voltage to make sure we don't have a critical circuit that is dead and causing the no start. The attached chart should help with that. My manual only goes back to 2000, but I believe the wiring is the same as the 99.

 

Thanks Chris i'll check chart in morning, been a long day.
I live in Hodgenville, Ky Larue county

 

Just getting over darn virus. Used chart you sent, all that did not require a breakout box checked ok. Does a breakout box plug in instead of the pcm and have numbered test pins ?? AE would be nice, however I read some bad reviews on it. What do you think ? Thanks

 

The breakout box lets you install something in line with the wiring while still leaving the PCM connected so you can see voltage. Us poor folk are forced to just unplug the PCM and try ohming the wiring to check for shorts if we suspect a wiring issue.

CLICK HERE for the pinout locations on the 2000 PCM if that helps you any.

What negative reviews have you read on AE? That's what I've got. Seems to be the best bang for the buck. The instructions don't help much. You've just got to hook it up and start playing with it, then ask here for additional help, but it does a good job of reading and recording data.