hi all,

i'm in the process of reassembling the bottom end of my old 351 out of my 77 f100

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5158390880/" title="GEDC0669 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/5158390880_85a01e7e4d_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="GEDC0669" /></a>

i've been reading every thread i could search and find about main and rod bearings, just had a couple of last minute questions before i put it all back together

a. is it possible to tell by the number cast on the connecting rod caps which cylinder they go to? i've been very careful and i'm almost sure i've got them in the correct order, but i'm not the only one who goes in the garage and just wanted to make sure before i throw them back on.

b. are the locking tabs for the rod and rod caps always on the same side?

c. does anyone know offhand what the torque specs are for

main bearing caps?

connecting rods?

oil pan?

d. which type of alcohol should you drink when trying to remove the heater core in your a/c truck?


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5148081429/" title="chief 061 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/5148081429_2ab376cfea_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="chief 061" /></a>

 

I think you will find a stamped number on the side of the cap. match it up with the one on the rod. If there is an arrow on the cap ,point it to the front. Don't mix them up or you will have problems.My suggestion would be if you decide to overhaul another engine , get a manual about the engine before you take it apart. You won't be wasting money on the manual as you will use it for many other things. Oh forgot to say leave the drinks until after you get the heater /ac fixed.

 

The numbers on the caps depends too on if the engine has been apart before and already rebuilt. I know when my original block in my truck cracked and I got a "new" one from the junkyard, when I took it apart two of the rod caps had #3 and two had #1, so I made sure I kept them in order, plus the block was already machined .30 over and the crank was machined .10 on the mains and .10 on the rods.

The heater core ain't that bad.

 

The rods and caps should be stamped with the cylinder number they belong to, put the cap on with the stamp on the same side as the stamp on the rod . I just did this but I can't remember the torque values so I won't guess at It, the heater core is easier to chage than the one without A/C but you will need to recharge the system when your done, It didn't take me long to change mine but that was about 12 years ago. If I remeber right, disconnect the A/C lines under the hood and heater hose of course, then remove the access door under the dash on the heater box, remove the evaporator and then the heater core. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure, but I'm certain it's fairly easy.

 

You don't have to disconnect the evaporator, you can unscrew it and flip it up to where it's pretty much out of the way. But if your A/C isn't charged then it doesn't matter if you disconnect them or not.

 

thank you guys for your input.

the main bearing caps were all numbered and arrowed, so i'm certain i've got them right, but the rod caps have only these castings...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5158530165/" title="GEDC0690 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1142/5158530165_0730dda670_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="GEDC0690" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5159138792/" title="GEDC0689 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1412/5159138792_c063a58066_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="GEDC0689" /></a>

01AE6210AA (with the ford logo underneath) on one side

CF10 on the other side

the numbers are the same on each cap

sorry about the pictures...

i took some pictures of the whole rotating assembly before the tear down, so i can probably fare pretty well by using those as reference, but i didn't know if there was a way i was overlooking to double check....

don't know if the engine has ever been rebuilt; as for buying the manual, i do have one of the haynes manuals but it has not proved to be much help with this particular issue...


thanks for your time,

drew

 

also, there were no discernable markings on the sides of the caps that i could find...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/46826903@N06/5159138436/" title="GEDC0681 by drew j1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1136/5159138436_a88983a4c3_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="GEDC0681" /></a>

also, thanks for the heater core info, do i understand it right to say that you do not have to drop the entire heater assembly from underneath the dash? you can access the core through the panel?

thanks a lot. sorry for the annoying new guy questions.

 

The haynes manual will definitely have the torque specs you asked about in it, you just have to find the right engine in the listings.

 

thanks jsutton,

i just need to get the right one... the one i have covers 351/400/460 and a few more, smaller ford v8 engines. i should get the vehicle specific one.

 

Here you go. I'm assuming it's a 351W since I don't think these came in the our trucks and it's not listed in your Haynes.

 

Your looking on the wrong edge. look on the side right below the rod bolts you should see a number 1-8 depending on which cylinder it goes with (this all falls out the window if someone else rebult it at one time or another)

Also lets move this down to the engine forums for you.

 

Great.......found them. Thanks guys. feels like a silly question, but i'd rather ask than not know, are the cylinders numbered 1-8 starting at the Harmonic Balance, and ending at the flywheel?

 

1 thru 4 are on the passenger side and 5 thru 8 are on the driver side.

 

you've been so helpful. thank you.

 

just a rule on any V shaped motor. If you look across the front 1 cylinder head will be slightly forward of the other. The one that is forward will be where #1 cylinder is. the way they are numbered after that is manufacture specific but it helps you find #1 cylinder for tming etc.