Having the ZF tranny is an huge plus, IMO.

Big tires have to go if you're pulling, as mentioned. Is it lifted?

 

I got a 351W in my 95 F250, it's got almost 200k miles on it, and it is still running strong. Like the previous posts, it's covered in smog stuff which i think reduces the capability of the engine but that is just my opinion. Have fun with it though, it's reliable and really doesn't quit.

 

I have to agree the 3.55s and 35s are not a good combo. If u want toi keep that tire size, stick some 4.56s in thre.

 

Ya there easy to pull and easy to take apart, we had to take a 302 out of our 89 bronco that will soon be going to the scrap yard. Its so rotted my brother broke the shackels offroading one day 5 years ago. There are alot of parts for these motors and there not to bad to rebuild if you gotta, my brother is going to rebuild a 302 and figures he can build it for around 1000 to 1500, wouldn't have a dought about buying another one. I would make sure to look it over better then my f350 next time.

 

I just did a full rebuild .030 over with upgraded cam, and valve springs for about 1100

 

Yes do the water pump while your motor is out! If it's the origional get a bolt kit in the "Help!" parts at your auto parts store... Mine were rusted half through...

The 351w is a great motor once you get the restrictions off. A MAF motor is the the best option because you can upgrade your cam without worrying about the SD restrictions. If you don't know MAF motors have a air sensor between your air filter and throttle body and found in 94ish-96/97 f-series.

A swap doesn't talk long at all. You can do one in a day if you have an impact and some air tools to speed things along. I would agree that the major restrictions are...

Exhaust: get some headers and bigger tail pipes
Cam: better cam
Tune up: do a sixlitre tune up...
FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs

 

did you reuse your head bolts or get new ones?

 

Reused head bolts, the ones in my motor are not "torque to yield" like some motors. if I where to rebuild that 5.0 that I took out, I would have got different bolts, the ones that where in there looked weak.

I've never had a issue reusing Ford head bolts. As long as the had the "lines" on the heads to indicate strength.

 

awesome help you guys, thank you very much, I changed my mind on the f250 with the 351.

however I am now interested in a f350, with a 351 (85k miles) and e4od auto tranny (yuck automatic) this truck is in much better condition comes also with spare motor, tranny, xfer case and the body is immaculate plus who could not want the dana 60 in the front rather than the dana 50 lol.

so heres my question now, what is involved computer wise if I wanted to pull the e4od and find a zf5 to throw in, I will be keeping this truck for long term and expect to replace the motor atleast once so I figure I might aswell have fun driving it with my beloved 5 speed.

I know all about doing the swap and parts needed however these motors are run by computers, if I pulled the e4od and put in the stick what would happen with the motor? would it cause a misfire or act funny at all?

 

hav24wheel could tell you in more detail but I think you just put a resistor in the wiring to tell the computer the E40D is there.

I have to agree... if it were me I would do what my buddy did which might be blasphmay but whatever... He got a ford to GM adapter and put an allison or turbo 350 tranny behind the 351w... Either way the E40D is just to expensive of a tranny to keep up... I much prefer a C6 or Zf542 over the E4OD...

 

Just keep the MLPS zip tied to the frame rail in anything except for park and you will be fine.

With the motor out, get a gasket set and reseal everything. Pull the waterpump and replace it while its out. Almost guranteed that the bolts will break. pain in the rear doing that with broken bolts in the truck.

If you wanna go and build it up a bit find yourself a Crane 444232 cam and Gt40 heads. Add some 1.7RR and you'll love that thing. Not as good a puller as the PSD, but for a smallblock, you cant go wrong. keep up with faithful oil changes and she'll last you 300,000+ miles.

 

Why go through all that trouble when he can just grab the PCM off of the donor truck when he goes to get the dash parts and pedal. I found a seller on Ebay a few years back who deals with PCMs and will swap his out for the one he needs. Let's not get too complicated...

 

Some people don't want stuff that doesn't need to be there just zip tied to the frame. Looks like ****. Plus, you have to splice a couple wires if you want you reverse lights and such to work. It took me about a half hour to modify the E4OD harness to be a ZF harness. Even got a clutch peddle switch so can't start without clutch pushed in. Reverse lights work. Plus its a lot cleaner look this way. You need to stay between 660 and 807 ohms between the GRY/R wire and the LB/Y wire to make the computer think the E4OD. Is in "N" Find me a MAF OBD I, strait stick computer to use that I don't have to change the pin out. I don't think you can find one.

 

if you are talking about the "trouble" of swapping out a troublesome E40D for a ALLISON!?!?!?! LOL... I'd rather have the auto 5spd allison that never has a problem gets better mpgs and does better at towing! As for the E40D vs the turbo 350... well you might as well go for a C6 at that point. I just steer clear of E40D's in general... they can be a good tranny after a $1200-$1700 rebuild... No thanks... I'll keep buying the F-250's with the ZF5-42 in them...

 

can you guys explain these water pump bolts more, as in how come they are a PITA to get out if they're rusted? and of course more importantly HOW do you guys get them out?

thanks