Dim Dash Lights
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 1
From: Winnipeg Canada
Dim Dash Lights
I've replaced the bulbs (long life clear) and the headlight switch on my '80. I need to know how to run an auxiliary ground wire from the alternator to the battery. Also, what is the ground wire to the voltage regulator?
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 9
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I have an 81 and just replaced the Voltage reg selonoid and engine control mod. There are letters on the voltage reg that tell u where each of the wires go. ASFI are the letters if I am thining corectly. Altenator, Starter, F... (I forgot), Ignition. The ground is the body... i believe.
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
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I also believe that there is no ground on the alt. Check your ground from the battery to the frame. If u would like U can run an extra ground to somewhere closer to the alt. I only have ground from bat to frame. the dash light have never been that bright on mine either.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,949
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From: Virginia
The dashlights on these trucks have a green/blue lense cover over each bulb that gets darker and darker as it ages. On mine, I just took the cluster out, pulled the bulbs out, and took a pencil and poked the lenses out. 200% difference in seeing the gauges. But they had a yellow look to them instead of the original green tint. If you don't like that, you may be able to get colored bulbs.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 570
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From: Austin Texas (area)
The dashlights on these trucks have a green/blue lense cover over each bulb that gets darker and darker as it ages. On mine, I just took the cluster out, pulled the bulbs out, and took a pencil and poked the lenses out. 200% difference in seeing the gauges. But they had a yellow look to them instead of the original green tint. If you don't like that, you may be able to get colored bulbs.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
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From: Winnipeg Canada
I'll try removing the blue bulb shields. I did not know they got more opaque over the years, just brittle. Thanks, Franklin. If it turns out that's too bright I'll try blue bulbs.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Mexia, TX
I took the covers off in my cluster and used red #194 bulbs at first, now I've upgraded to mostly all #168s since they're a little brighter.
On my cluster, I got lucky...the blue lenses were in almost new condition (I need to find where I put them...). My gauges lit up brightly in the factory color. What made me decide to make them red is when I read on here about how FTE member oddshot once had a car with red gauge backlighting; he mentioned how it was easy on the eyes and preserved night vision, so when I had some extra cash I picked up red-colored bulbs and got to work.
Red makes the white graphics appear to glow red, almost as if lit from behind like on newer trucks. The needles are very visible as well. Overall, it's very easy to read at night.
On my cluster, I got lucky...the blue lenses were in almost new condition (I need to find where I put them...). My gauges lit up brightly in the factory color. What made me decide to make them red is when I read on here about how FTE member oddshot once had a car with red gauge backlighting; he mentioned how it was easy on the eyes and preserved night vision, so when I had some extra cash I picked up red-colored bulbs and got to work.
Red makes the white graphics appear to glow red, almost as if lit from behind like on newer trucks. The needles are very visible as well. Overall, it's very easy to read at night.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 293
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From: NoGa.
I took the covers off in my cluster and used red #194 bulbs at first, now I've upgraded to mostly all #168s since they're a little brighter.
Red makes the white graphics appear to glow red, almost as if lit from behind like on newer trucks. The needles are very visible as well. Overall, it's very easy to read at night.
Red makes the white graphics appear to glow red, almost as if lit from behind like on newer trucks. The needles are very visible as well. Overall, it's very easy to read at night.
Not only that ... it makes it harder for the zombies to spot you when yer drivin' along at night!
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,271
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From: Mexia, TX
It's either 168 or 161. I'll check next time I'm that way and post back.
It was a little expensive, around $3 for a two-pack of either kind.
lol yep. That's especially important in Texas, the zombies here have shotguns!!
It was a little expensive, around $3 for a two-pack of either kind.
Originally Posted by oddshot
Not only that ... it makes it harder for the zombies to spot you when yer drivin' along at night!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 293
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From: NoGa.
AS LONG AS (caps for emphasis) your connections in the circuit are good ... that printed circuit SHOULD be OK.
The problem with MOST automotive circuits (heat wise) is the S***TY CONNECTORS. Connectors in this vintage vehicle allow dirt, moisture and crud to build up and create HIGH RESISTANCE ... which creates HEAT! That excess heat will burn through the weakest link.
MOST mechanics blame the COMPONENT (in your case ... maybe the PC panel ... in the ignition circuit of Ford's Duro Spark ... they blame the module)
but that ain't the problem.
Its the crappy connections in the circuit.
On the PC board on the back of the instruments ... clean the copper contacts with an "ink eraser" ... heck even the erasor on a pencil will do ... but a white ink erasor is what I've used for 30 years.
...and make sure that the contacts in the plug are clean as well.
BTW ... the BEST FIX I EVER seen for the durop spark ign circuit on the Fords ...
REPLACE THE CONNECTORS WITH THE NEW GM WEATHER PACK CONNECTORS.
The Ford designed components (the box and the pickup coil in the distributor) are OK ... but the CONNECTORS are just plain EVIL!!!!
T