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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 05:27 PM
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6.4dieselpower
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Rebuild?

I am looking at buying my cousins 1964 f250, I am pretty sure its got the 292 Y Block, I was wondering how much would a total rebuild cost if i rebuilt it to stock?

Thanks, Blake
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 10:38 PM
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Hi, been awhile since I did a complete rebuild but to give you an idea John Mummert Y has rebuild kits for ~ $1200.00 for parts plus any machine work you would need. This is considering you would do the assemble work yourself. Add labor to the cost if you have someone assemble it.

Some of the other guys should be able to give you a more accurate esimate than me... 46Y or Charlie??
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead
Hi, been awhile since I did a complete rebuild but to give you an idea John Mummert Y has rebuild kits for ~ $1200.00 for parts plus any machine work you would need. This is considering you would do the assemble work yourself. Add labor to the cost if you have someone assemble it.

Some of the other guys should be able to give you a more accurate esimate than me... 46Y or Charlie??
Yes I was going to say $2000-2300 plus or minus $500, which is in the ballpark with Mummert's $1200 kit. With patient and careful ebay shopping it might come down some on the parts, and machine shop costs vary a little too. Added options like Rams Horns/headers, four barrel intakes/carbs, engine balancing, mini starters, clutch work, roller timing chain, high ratio rockers, new distributors/pointless ignition etc. can run it far beyond 2K in a hurry. The probability is that the rocker arms and shafts need replaced. So that needs to be figured in also, whether stock or not. A killer cost wise is a new cam and lifters. New will run just shy of $400. Reground around $150. Another often overlooked cost is for a damper rebuild, $150.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 02:09 AM
  #4  
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I priced it out a few years back at my local parts house.

About $800 for good stock quality parts. That is a federal mgul cam/lifters, hastings rings, stock pistons, clevite bearings, and a felpro gasket set. Add about $400 on for boring, turning, and heads. I think if a guy were to do it himself he could slide in under $1500 with rebuilt rockers.

A top shelf rebuild is going to be more, but a decent stock style rebuild is not killer.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 09:36 AM
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Mummert's popup pistons should be a definite consideration I think, even in a stock build. Thieir use will correct the low compression problem of '59-'64 engines. The '64 heads have a whopping 76-77 cc chamber volume. Add a .042 thick gasket, and compression height of .030 or so, then put it all into a calculator. The improved compression could come close to a full 2 points, give better mileage, torque and acceleration.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 03:46 PM
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You all are in the neighborhood I would put it. I think the last stock build I did worked out to around $2400 after parts and machining. I did the assembly.

46 brings up a good point, too. If you have the extra money, increasing compression will be a good thing. Stock, these truck engines are so low on compression that half a point to a point increase should not require higher octane fuel. From the factory, the pistons are usually in the hole so that the real compression ratio is closer to 7.5:1. I don't have handy what Ford tells us is the compression ratio, but I believe it is somewhere in the 8s. An easy, and cost effective way to increase the compression is to mill the deck surface for 0 deck (maybe about .020 in the hole if you will be using steel shim gaskets). That and a clean up cut on the heads should get you honestly to the mid to high 8s. It doesn't sound like much but it's more than you had and you will notice it.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 12:54 AM
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I have a set of 5750 heads with the big valves. I thought a set of murmets popups would work nicely with just milling the block and heads .010. That should bring one up to about 9-1 CR. The listed CR on murmets site for C1TE is 8.2 on a 292. Popups and milling like you said should push you slightly over 9.

Estimate a 10% error for computed CR. IE a 9 CR is in reality about 8.1 a 8 CR is probobly more like 7.2. A simple 1 point bump is going to improve power and economy greatly without the need to run premium gas. Not to mention a much cleaner running engine!
 
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