ignition issues
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
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ignition issues
I have replaced my starter switch, it turned the truck over a few times, but now the key only heats the gp's it will not turn over the engine, I bought another one put it on and it's the same story. I can turn over the engine at the solenoid, but I don't think my ip is working with the ignition out. Any ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: West Valley Utah
Without knowing what it is you are working on, I'd say the actual ignition switch on the lower end of the steering column needs adjusting. The actuating rod must be attached or the glow plugs would not work.
Posting Guru
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
If the engine is turning over the IP is 'working'. Whether it is getting fuel or not, whether the gp's are working or not, and whether your batteries and starter are up to the task are the other possible issues.
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I'm working on an 88 f 250 7.3 idi. And would anyone be able to tell me how to adjust the starter switch (the doo-hickey) that is pushed and pulled by the actuator rod?
Also, I did a gp relay test out of the haynes manual, and it appears my gp relay is shot again. They said test the wts light timing with the relay test terminal timing, and it showed bad. These trucks wont run at all w/o the glow plugs firing will they? Even in Florida?
Also, I did a gp relay test out of the haynes manual, and it appears my gp relay is shot again. They said test the wts light timing with the relay test terminal timing, and it showed bad. These trucks wont run at all w/o the glow plugs firing will they? Even in Florida?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
it sounds like the ignition actuator is broken in the column behind the steering wheel. it is the little piece that connects the key cylinder to the ignition switch on the lower part of the column. it costs around $13 from the ford dealer, and takes about 2-3 hours to put in. using the search function, look for "ignition actuator" and you will find a dozen or so posts with detailed instructions on how to properly change it.
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thank you for the info TJC, that is the new part I put in, but I am gonna go back out and see if that adjustment helps.I gotta get her going soon, my truck has a really good heater and it's gonna be like 50 in florida this wknd,lol..
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Junior User
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New status. Key now cranks truck just fine, can someone help me with a test for my ip? I'm not sure it's getting power, doesn't it click if you unplug and replug? there is power at one plug going into the top but not both, the one w/ power is the one closest to the front.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Yes it should click when you plug and unplug it. The other wire doesn't have to work, and it will only have power when the motor is under 111 degrees I think. Usually when it has no power it is either not makeing connection on the temp switch or for some reason they just come unplugged sometimes. It is hard to see but is down behind the altenator by the water neck, just follow the wires. It works the cold start advance and idle, but will not keep it from cranking.
Oh yea what do you need a heater for if it is that hot.
Oh yea what do you need a heater for if it is that hot.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
in Florida, 50 degrees is freezing. them folks down there are cold blooded. 
my aunt in Naples puts on a sweater and turns on the heat at 75 degrees.
check the timing of the gears the key cylinder connects to.
one gear off will affect whether it starts or not.
another thing to check is the ignition switch on the lower part of the column itself.
i have had a few that separated with the plastic of the switch came loose from the metal housing. the only way i found it was when i took the switch off the column and looked at it after replacing it
my aunt in Naples puts on a sweater and turns on the heat at 75 degrees.
check the timing of the gears the key cylinder connects to.
one gear off will affect whether it starts or not.
another thing to check is the ignition switch on the lower part of the column itself.
i have had a few that separated with the plastic of the switch came loose from the metal housing. the only way i found it was when i took the switch off the column and looked at it after replacing it
Junior User
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On a slightly different note, my truck will run on after the key switch is turned off. This only happens occasionally and it has yet to run on long enough for me to get the hood open and test anything. I'm thinking it is a key switch problem but has anyone had this problem?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
a few times. 99% of the time, when the ignition actuator fails, it fails in the no start position. but 1% of the time it will fail in the no shut off position.
an easy way to tell if it is the actuator is when it happens. see if you can reach up under the dash and move the rod on top of the column. if the truck shuts off, it is either a bad actuator, or a miss-aligned ignition switch.
miss-aligned switch would only be an option if it was a newly installed switch though.
an easy way to tell if it is the actuator is when it happens. see if you can reach up under the dash and move the rod on top of the column. if the truck shuts off, it is either a bad actuator, or a miss-aligned ignition switch.
miss-aligned switch would only be an option if it was a newly installed switch though.
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I got the click today, and I'm turning over by the key, but she still won't even act like she wants to start. Is there any way possible a bad ground, or loose wire can keep things from starting? I've got fuel, good batts., and she's cranking like crazy.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
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From: Marengo, Iowa
Try either testing to see if you have 12volts to the injection pump solenoid, or run a jumper. I have encountered a number of times when for whatever reason, there is no power to the injection pump, but will run fine once you run a jumper, then when I go to test to see why, everything is fine again, which is frustrating...
