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92 7.3 IDI engine problems

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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 08:28 PM
  #16  
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Sounds like they are all pulling. Did the motor shake any more or less when you did it?

I did that a while back on the old man's 84 6.9, and it really showed a difference, but the injectors were also pretty much original... It shook a lot and smoked heavily. Changed out the injectors, and it was a whole different beast.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 08:35 PM
  #17  
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Hard to tell. The motor shook bad before I done the test. It shakes like a gas motor with two plug wires off. The truck has 138K, and the injectors look original. I did drive it, and around 1500 to 2000 you can't see anything behind the right side of the truck, from the smoke from the exhaust.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #18  
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Hard to say what is the issue without proper testing. What color is the smoke, fuel smell, or antifreeze sweet smell? If it is black, it could well be the injector issues. That was again part of the symptoms the 84 had with bad injectors. It smoked way easy, and it was generally black.

A simple question, have you taken a look at the air filter? Tried running it with the air intake hose off?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 08:51 PM
  #19  
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It mainly black. Looks like there is a little gray. I know it's not antifreeze or a sweet smell. I definitely smell diesel in the exhaust. If there is oil smoke, the smell of diesel is covering the smell of oil. If the fuel gauge reads correctly, it's used around 16th of a tank just sitting and idling and driving it maybe 2 miles! I know when I blip the throttle, the smoke is black and pours out when the truck starts to idle back down.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #20  
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It could well be the injectors not popping off the way they should. I doubt low compression would cause all that. That would be more of a grayish smoke. but early/late timing can cause it. Poor spray pattern too. Itnake restriction is another source of black smoke. Is there excessive rattle sound too, kind of like a powerstroke motor? IDI's when running properly don't have the real knocky rattle sound.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 09:07 PM
  #21  
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There is a sound like a lifter that isn't pumping up. I haven't been around diesels enough to really tell you. And it doesn't do it unless I drive it. Sitting and idling it doesn't do it. Also, on the air tube, there isn't one on it, and the filter looks to be fairly new.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 09:40 PM
  #22  
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ok i had a similar problem with my 90 it ended up being the fuel selector for the dual tanks the selector froze in sutch a position that the return lines would not drain back to the tank causing it to back pressure and the engine was getting all that fuel it ran like what your describing (if you have dual tanks) hope it helps
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 09:56 PM
  #23  
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That's funny you stated that. Cause the selector on my truck doesn't work. Well, the gauge doesn't move when I change tanks. Thought it was a fuse, but all the fuses are good. I'll check that also. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 10:04 PM
  #24  
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my guage didnt work either sounds like that could be it the selector was about 200 from ford
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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If you don't care about running dual, you can simply bypass the valve. Sometimes they hang in the middle...
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 10:34 PM
  #26  
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i thought about bypassing to but there is like 5 lines going to the selector it seemed like it would be difficult
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 11:20 PM
  #27  
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Actually, it isn't that bad. The two coming forward obviously go to the motor. Two come from each tankto the switch. they are all the same size for the feed to the motor, which is 3/8", and the return lines are all the same size, which is 5/16". You can cut a piece of steel tubing and use it to hook the lines together. There is a pair of o-rings inside the fittings to seal them. I used plastic ties to keep the lines from separating. Be certain the tubing has no burrs on it, or it will cut the o-rings. A tubing cutter would be best. You simply hook the lines from the tank you want to use to the lines to the motor. leave the switch plugged in though, because you won't have a fuel gauge reading if you unplug it. Should you decide to make it permanent, you can direct wire it if you choose.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 09:03 AM
  #28  
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that doesnt sound that bad acually anyway i believe you can diagnose the problem by fallowing the return line to the fuel selector pull it off and put it in a bucket or something start your truck if thats it it should run normal again
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 04:50 PM
  #29  
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Before I started throwing money at it I would run a compression test. At the very least crack the injector nuts one at a time and see if you can find the missing cylinders. A bad fan clutch can make them shake violently too.

Has there been any alternative fuel used in it.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #30  
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I don't know about the alternative fuel, I just got the truck. And it wasn't the original owner that I got it from. I've cracked the injectors and the miss is still there. I do notice a different tone in the engine, and it lowers the idle RPM. The fan looks new. But?
 
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