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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #1  
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Let's build a 351w!

Hey fellas,
I have some questions about what direction I should go with the build of the engine for my '64 F100 project. What I have is a stock, complete 351w. I also have a few goodies on hand, such as a Performer intake, Edelbrock 600, and a set of bare GT40 heads.

This is my first engine build and I'm hoping you guys can share a little knowledge with me. My goals are for a reliable daily driver that can handle the heat we have to deal with here in the desert and not whoop me too hard at the pump.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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arctic y block
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Put the big money into the heads and let them breath. That's yer biggest bottle neck. After that all else is a plus.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 01:05 AM
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I should've done a bit more research. Turns out my "GT40" heads are just plain old (D00E) stockers. My neighbor gave them to me recently and I took his word on what they were. I guess that's what I get for being a newb...

From what I've seen on the inter-webs, these heads (D00E's) seem to have a fair amount of potential, but I'd like to know a bit more about them before I dive into the machine work.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 01:08 AM
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arctic y block
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Ya may need 25 posts or more or be a supporter to post pic's. or use photo bucket till ya get yer 25 in.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 01:47 AM
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I hope that's more satisfactory.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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I say forget about those heads, by the time you have hardened valve seats and new guides installed and buy all the valvetrain parts, you could have bought brand new heads that are vastly superior. Go price out all those parts and machine work and then compare it to this... Racing Head Service (RHS) 35304-01 - RHS Pro Action Small Block Ford Cylinder Heads - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 01:52 PM
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Lets assume that I have full access to a macine shop and plenty of time on my hands... and don't want to spend $1000 bucks.

What modifications can I make to help the D00E heads work better? I've heard of guys using larger valves and the usuall port and polish, and I would much rather do the work myself then order things from a catalog.

This is a fresh start for this engine and I'd just like it to run well, as a daily driver, for another 40 years. I should mention that this vehicle is EXCEMPT from emissions here in my home state, so we don't have to worry about pollution/smog controls.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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Also keep in mind that you do not need to pay for fully ported ginormous valve heads much of the porting can be done yourself with spending under 100$ on tooling for it where as paying for it out of the box or paying the machine shop to do it costs lots.

Pocket porting, and bowl blends are simple enough for a beginer to do with little more than an electric grinder and long shank carbide burs. If you are working with aluminum remember that a 'coarse' tooth bur is needed so as to prevent choking on debris.

If you would like some more information please feel free to PM or email me spudmuffin1@gmail.com
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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Just popping back in with a quicky Edelbrock E-street heads less than a 1000$ with decent flow that when ported should provide all the air you need for a reliable daily driver with enough oompf to get you going when the going get a prius.
Edelbrock 5023 - Edelbrock E-Street Cylinder Heads - Overview - SummitRacing.com

And the information on them from edelbrock
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_..._estreet.shtml
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Thanks for the info guys!

I don't intend to pay for ANY of the machine/porting work as I'll be doing it myself. I would like to experiment to see just how good (or bad) these heads really are. Why not, I have four identical castings.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 02:26 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by USArmyTaterness
...to get you going when the going get a prius.....
Huh? A Prius? I'm not following...


And again, I'd like to try something different besides opening a catalog. I'd like to maximize the potential of the parts I have on hand. Trust me... if I wanted to just throw my checkbook at this we'd be looking at this link instead....

M-6007-521RT - 521 Cubic Inch Rear Sump Crate Engine - RoushYatesParts.com
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 02:58 PM
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The number one priority with the D0OE heads is to install hardened exhaust valve seats.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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Alright fellas... It seems like I'm pounding sand over these heads.

How about the rest of the internal components? I'll be needing new pistons and rings, as well as bearings. Anyone have suggestions of parts that might fit the bill?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick Flores
I don't intend to pay for ANY of the machine/porting work as I'll be doing it myself. I would like to experiment to see just how good (or bad) these heads really are.
Well these heads are pretty good(compared to what came after), stock valves are 1.84"/1.54" so fitting 1.90"/1.60" wouldn't take much work. Combustion chambers are also nicely sized at 60cc, so 9.5-10:1 CR is within reach with common rebuild pistons. I'd suggest you fit the valves, blend the seats into the pockets, and then lay waste to the exhaust ports.. meaning hog those suckers out as much as you dare. The intake side is easier to mess up so if anything just straighten the port and clean up the pocket.
The bottom end really doesn't need any beefing so don't do any more machine work than necessary, the factory rotating assembly will handle 6000rpm and up to about 500hp reliably and the block will take 50% more again with better components.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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Very good advice from Conanski on a 351W build. I agree 100%.
 
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