Rear window will not move
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 146
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From: Norristown, PA
Rear window will not move
Today, the rear window wouldn't close. Motor does run, but doesn't move the window. I can move the window by hand so there is nothing binding it. Any ideas???
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
take the inside access panel off, lube the moving parts with appropriate lube, spray the rubber with lube,
Still no move?
Lock the regulator arms, remove motor, assess condition of motor and repair and replace.
Do all this from inside the truck, enjoy.
Still no move?
Lock the regulator arms, remove motor, assess condition of motor and repair and replace.
Do all this from inside the truck, enjoy.
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
The gear that links the mechanism to the engine could be broken, but before anything else, try these:1.- Lube the internals as stated before (Mr. Grey recommends graphite grease instead of petroleum to avoid the solidifications). 2.- check the safety switch in the tail-gate (near one of the latchs), if it isn't working right it will prevent the window from moving, (it would be basically telling the system that the tailgate is open, so the window shouldn't move, even if the tailgate is properly closed).
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Yeah, that is a classic failure point. If the motor is running but the window isn't moving, the Delrin pins that hold the drive gear to the motor have most likely sheared in half and need to be replaced. They can be found in the "HELP" section at most of the big chain auto parts stores. Now the CAUSE for the pins to shear can be age or vitrification (they got brittle) or a poorly aligned/lubricated regulator mechanism. Lubricate the glides at the base of the window and the gearing itself but do NOT lubricate the track that the glass itself slides up and down through. Your best bet for a lubricating medium is graphite... powdered graphite that you would typically use on a lock mechanism. Since it is not petroleum-based it won't gather dust and dirt and gum up over time.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Norristown, PA
I think you are right about those pins. I was looking at it yesterday after I took the panel off and was working the key to get the motor to operate. I used a flashlight to get a better look where the big gears meet the motor. I could see something trying to move, but nothing was engaging the gears. I read something about a "repair kit' for this problem. Anybody hear of that?? Could I remove the motor without removing the glass? I was thinking of extending the glass as far as it will go and support it from underneath while the tailgate is down.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
You are right on track with the method for getting at the window motor and regulator. The "repair kit" is basically a set of three replacement pins the go into the back of the big drive gear between it and the tri-lobed cam on the output shaft of the motor. This "kit" is what you would ask for/look for from your parts supplier.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 146
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From: Norristown, PA
Update: Removed the window motor and tried to get it to run by turning the key. Would not run. Unplugged the motor and used my voltmeter to see if power was being supplied. I was getting intermittent readings which made me think that there was a problem with the key switch. Opened the gear section of the motor and found a lot of small fragments mixed in the grease. Not knowing the how to rebuild the motor and the possibilty that it may be bad, I bought another one at Advanced. Connected the new motor to the connector and it still wouldn't work. Long story, short, I cut off both connectors and used butt connectors to attach the motor to the other wire. Bingo!!! Installing the motor was another story. Used a piece of twine and threaded it thru the screw hole in the mount and the associated screw hole in the motor. Pulled the twine tight and managed to get the motor lined up enough to get one screw started. Once I had one screw started, I could manuver the motor by hand to get the other 2 screws in. Works like a charm!!!
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Lead Driver
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Junior User
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From: Georgia
Greystreak92 is exactly correct on these pins shearing. The problem with the back window is solved, but I wanted to add a footnote that these same pins are in the door windows as well. I have had to replace mine in all the electric windows on my Bronco. It seems to me that trucks in hotter climates suffer more of these types of problems due to the heat and humidity causing premature degradation of the plastics or as was said vitrification. I think the grease they use in the gears also causes them get brittle quicker. Mark
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