THUD when taking off in 2nd
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
THUD when taking off in 2nd
This just started this week...
Background:
The truck has always been jumpy in 1st gear and Reverse. I'd have to take it really easy on it to avoid the hopping/bouncing/shudder when taking off. I replaced the tranny mount and it was like new for a dozen starts or so, then back to being jumpy. Supposedly, the PO had a new truck installed just before I bought it. I have the receipt and it's from a tranny shop on the other side of the state.
Now when I take off in 2nd gear, it'll take off, but then THUD/SLAM. Once the THUD happens, it definitely has full power to the rear wheels. I don't know if it does or not before the thud. Also, I believe this happens if I start out in 1st just to get the truck moving, shift into 2nd and gas it. It'll do a quicker THUD. It's almost like a crunching thud/slam. This is definitely drive train. I'm not sure if my rear diff has a limited slip or not.
Where do I start on this one?
Background:
The truck has always been jumpy in 1st gear and Reverse. I'd have to take it really easy on it to avoid the hopping/bouncing/shudder when taking off. I replaced the tranny mount and it was like new for a dozen starts or so, then back to being jumpy. Supposedly, the PO had a new truck installed just before I bought it. I have the receipt and it's from a tranny shop on the other side of the state.
Now when I take off in 2nd gear, it'll take off, but then THUD/SLAM. Once the THUD happens, it definitely has full power to the rear wheels. I don't know if it does or not before the thud. Also, I believe this happens if I start out in 1st just to get the truck moving, shift into 2nd and gas it. It'll do a quicker THUD. It's almost like a crunching thud/slam. This is definitely drive train. I'm not sure if my rear diff has a limited slip or not.
Where do I start on this one?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
This doesn't make any sense man, there should be no hopping and bouncing in either forward or reverse. The only time I experienced what you're describing is when I accidentally locked the converter with the switch while in park and then put her in drive...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Likes: 10
Ford Axle Code Chart .: Articles Here is a link to the axle code chart, compare with your door sticker code.
Also check the engine mounts and the driveshaft universal joints and your spring U-bolts and eye bushings.
If all that is OK then maybe oil on the clutch or cracked clutch plate center would be other guesses.
Also check the engine mounts and the driveshaft universal joints and your spring U-bolts and eye bushings.
If all that is OK then maybe oil on the clutch or cracked clutch plate center would be other guesses.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
It's definitely what's happening. This is with a T-19. If I let out the clutch w/ little or no throttle, it won't shutter. If I hit the throttle to start out in 1st or Reverse, it'll hop/shutter.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
completely missed the T19 part - then yes, I'd suspect the clutch, however just to be safe do check the driveshaft U-joints as well, also the carrier bearing (since you have an ext cab truck).
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
All right. Should I pop in a new rear main seal and slave cylinder setup if I have to dive into the clutch? I've noticed replacing entire assemblies seem to work best on this truck.
With quality parts and self performing the repairs, how much money would you estimate for doing the clutch, slave cylinder, tranny & xfercase fluid swap, rms, new u-joints f/r, new carrier bearing assembly, pinion shaft bushing, rear diff fluid swap and rear axle bearings & seals? $800?
With quality parts and self performing the repairs, how much money would you estimate for doing the clutch, slave cylinder, tranny & xfercase fluid swap, rms, new u-joints f/r, new carrier bearing assembly, pinion shaft bushing, rear diff fluid swap and rear axle bearings & seals? $800?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
My ZF5 did that only take off 2nd gear for the past years. Never does it all the time, only onces in a while it'll do it, some times do it non stop for many drives.
Mounts, bushings and U-joints were all good, but I guess with the mileage it has I don't blame it for acting weird sometimes.
Mounts, bushings and U-joints were all good, but I guess with the mileage it has I don't blame it for acting weird sometimes.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
Jason, by all means put a new rear main on that engine - you're like right there anyways, might as well do it all at once and save yourself future headaches with it.
As for your total expense, I have no clue, but why are you doing all this work all at once? Especially if it's just a carrier bearing that's causing the hopping...
As for your total expense, I have no clue, but why are you doing all this work all at once? Especially if it's just a carrier bearing that's causing the hopping...
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
There goes that theory. It started doing it in 1st yesterday. If I start out easy and take it easy, it won't do it. Must be the high torque of the motor causing a slip when I get on the skinny pedal. So now my truck is accelerating like my '69 Mercedes 220d did... sssslooooooowwwww... 
LCAM-01XA, I'm sure the u-joints are done and the pinion seal is leaking. The carrier bearing assembly looks dry rotted, as does almost every bushing under the truck. I've already replaced everything sans gears and pinion seal in the front axle, might be time to freshen up the rear axle to match. I usually try to buy a bunch of parts over a longer period of time and perform the maintenance/service all at once. That way I'm not constantly tearing my truck apart. Plus I have to drive ~50 miles to my folks shop to work on it so I have shelter, enough space and a huge selection of tools.
LCAM-01XA, I'm sure the u-joints are done and the pinion seal is leaking. The carrier bearing assembly looks dry rotted, as does almost every bushing under the truck. I've already replaced everything sans gears and pinion seal in the front axle, might be time to freshen up the rear axle to match. I usually try to buy a bunch of parts over a longer period of time and perform the maintenance/service all at once. That way I'm not constantly tearing my truck apart. Plus I have to drive ~50 miles to my folks shop to work on it so I have shelter, enough space and a huge selection of tools.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 0
From: West Valley Utah
I agree with DaveS. If a ceramic clutch was installed they can be a real pain, especially when trying to slip the clutch they will grab, jump and chatter, make you look like you need to saddle up and spur that mule!
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