Got My Injectors, stage 1's from Rosewood, sent them on the 15th PM and got them back on the 27th AM, that's 12 days total turnaround time (USPS) Spoknae WA to C******, Ohio. Great service, thanks Jim.
Now all I have to do is install them, and hope it solves my shaking engine problem, Jim had to replace one injector due to inadequate oil flow.
If anyone has any good tips on the install please feel free to offer any advice, never done this before and sure don't want to screw it up now. Especially interested in methods of removing oil from cylinders and procedure for refilling oil. I'll appreciate any advice I can get.

 

If you have a small vac pump, hook it to a piece of 5/16" brake line and stick it in the injector hole and suck out the top of the piston.
If not, install the new injectors and remove all yoru glow plugs. Make sure injectors are fully installed and bolted down, bolt the valve covers down and crank the engine over. This will purge fuel and oil from the cylinders thru the gp hole.

To install the injectors, oil the o-rings really well, amke sure copper washer is properly fixed to the nozzle and stick it in the bore. Beat it into place with a mallet or deadblow. You can beat on the top all you want just stay away from the solenoid clip or you could easily break that off. If you can't get a good swing at it use a screwdriver and beat on the hold-down strap, or use a dowel (piece of broomstick) and hit against the solenoid somewhere. You need to set them good by hand, till you hear the distinct CLINK of metal to metal.
Then torque the hold-down bolt to 120 inch pounds.
Don't guess at this, it needs to be correct. Too much and it will squeeze the washer too flat and not make a good seal.
Not enough torque and you won't crush the washer enough and the injector will essentially loosen up and cause lots of problems.
You can NOT seat the injector correctly by drawing it down with the bolt, you have to seat it by hand first.

Hope this helps.
Jim

 

What Jim said. I did mine a few months ago.

Oil the 0-rings really good, tighten everything the way it should be, and if you do pull the glowplugs out to purge it I recommend pulling all 8 just to be sure you get all the oil out. And make sure the valve covers are bolted down at least at each corner, that oil shoots FAR! (don't ask, the side of my house repels water really good now).

And if you have a battery charger charge up your batteries really good before you start cranking because it will take a while to get it to fire up.

 

Double check your torques downs after you have them all torqued in.

 

I like to dunk mine in oil to help assure no o-ring pinching or twisting on install.

Pull the glow plugs and roll the motor to purge the cylinders. I do it by hand the first two revolutions, you will be amazed how far the oil/fuel mix will squirt even when turned by hand. Then put the covers on and spin it with the starter to blow out the rest.

Top off the HPOP. Replace the HPOP plug. Then crank for 10-15 seconds. Crack one of the head plugs to purge the air, re-tighten. I'm talking about the big hex plugs on the top of the heads. Then repeat on both sides till no more air comes out and the HPOP stays full. It should start very easily now.

I think it's a good idea to change your oil if you are burping the cylinders and letting it run into the pan.

 

So for my own understanding, if you have a vacuum, you can just suck out the cylinders and not have to pull the glow plugs and bump it over? or If you suck the cylinders, you still pull the glow plugs?

 

You can just suck the cylinders, that's what I did, just make sure they are clean. I used a syringe (spelled right?) and a small plastic tube on the end stuck in the injector hole.

 

I have a 12v vac pump with a piece of brake line and I just suck them out.
If you remove the back 2 injectors first and let everything drain into them, then you only have 2 cylinders to clean.
I've always used the vac method and have never had a problem.
There will be a small amount left in there and just bump the motor over slowly till it spins freely and there will be a bit of smoke on start-up, but it has always worked for me.

 

I used a hand pump for putting the Oil in the Axles and transfercases. its just a basic push up and down pump that has a Long tube on both ends.

 

With no vacuum pump, i used the pull the relay/fuse method with the GP's out and the VC's on.
my god if you do it this way put the vc's on with a bolt or 2, just sit them on there.
I tried to do jims method, but had problems with number 7.

I turned my engine over 2 or 3 times pulling the VC's and cleaning them to check for oil, got oil every time.

Just trying to get a majority of it out to prevent hydrolock. I believe the rest will make it past the rings or out the valves.

out of all the important things to do, its just making sure the motor is free of oil.

lube them injectors up good before putting them in. Some dunk, some stroke.

Use a dead blow hammer to seat them into the cup.
be sure not to hit the solenoid plug when doing it. You'll hear a very distinct ting or ping sound when they are seated. So turn off the radio and listen close.
Then torque them down and double check your injectors a few mins later on the torque again.

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I'm going out now (it's noon) to suck the fuel out through the GP holes, going to be using the syringe method, I'll let ya know how it goes. The temperature is just above 40 and not expected to get much warmer, so got to get this done soon, snow is a coming its just around the corner for us.

 

Well, I finally got it all done, but I am not happy with the results, when I first fired it up it smoked and shook pretty bad about like I expected. So if figured it just needed a good run, don't know about smoke it was dark. I drove it about 30 miles tonight, the shaking never went away, not at all what I expected. The stage 1 injectors seem to give a little more power than I had before. Don't know what to do now.

 

One might not be seated correctly, or might have knicked an o-ring?

 

You won't get much power increase with stage 1's until you get a custom chip burned for them. Any improvement you get is likely due to the overhaul of your old injectors, they won't deliver any more fuel than stock until a chip tells them to.

 

My buddy put stage 1's in his truck and is putting down 300 without a chip??

Also, Richdawg, dont know how many miles you drove, but ive heard it can take up to 100 to get the air out of the system.