To refer to a diagram..


It would seem to me that the alternator B+ output, #3 in the diagram, is always live and leads to the junction block beside the passenger side terminal block. The smaller connector, #2, is used for regulating the field coils in the alternator. You can take a meter and either check for voltage at that terminal with the engine off, or do a continuity/low range <50 ohm resistance test between the main (passenger side) battery terminal block which has a plastic cover over it. Take care not to accidentally brush anything metallic (like test leads) against anything else metal which would be grounded, in the case that the line is in fact live at all times.

 

Thanks Trent. I'm thinking this might be more challenging than I thought. I never got to this today (too many errands) but may try checking the voltage on the alternator tomorrow. Looks like I have to remove a few things to get access though.

I also came across an unused fuse location that appears to be hot only on start/run, which I assume will give me power on remote starting. I asked the question over in the wiring forum:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-run-mean.html

The only issue I see with this (assuming it has the functionality I want), is actually connecting into the fuse box from underneath as I'd rather not use the fuse taps that you can get from crappy tire.

 

I'm a bit confused as to which route you're thinking of taking now, or what you're looking to accomplish in the set-up you're trying to make.

As far as I understand, you want:
1. High Idle operation WITH remote start, which we have now determined to function when power is applied to PTO_REQ1.
2. Use of upfitter switches to activate SEIC for the clean look and ability to disable it for example during the summer.
3. BUT without making all upfitter switches always-on in case you want to use other equipment like lights.

I think it's sounding a bit more complicated than it really is with all this talk about alternators and such.

As for hot-in-run-or-start, it depends on if it's determined by a body control module or if it's based off the ignition switch. Again a bigger picture look at a more complete wiring diagram would reveal more about that, but my approach if I don't know what's going on is to test everything.

 

You're spot on with what I want to achieve. Basically want to send a power supply to the upfitters that has power on remote start and during normal running. This F32 spot in the fuse panel sounds like it might be exactly that. I'll test that theory in the AM with the meter. If so, I will tap there somehow (would love to use the stock fuse location but may not be possible as it looks like a double size fuse and I doubt I can get a 5A double size fuse). If that doesn't work out, I'll look at taking the feed off the alternator, testing as I go as per your suggestions above.

 

It is done. I used fuse slot #32 with a 5 amp external fuse. Tied that into the pass through wires. Tied the other end of the pass through into the violet power wire feeding the upfitter switches.

Fuse 32 is a hot in start and run so only powers the upfitter switches if the vehicle is remote started and/or running with key in. It has no voltage when the motor is not actually running (well, it does but only for about 5 secs after the motor shuts down).

Works like a charm. Now my high idle comes on with remote starting and I don't have to ever worry about draining the batteries! Thanks everyone for all your help in contributing to this solution.

JC

 

By the way, today it was about -3dC out and I remote started the truck in high idle and oil temp was sitting at 42dC when it timed out after 5 mins. Normally in these conditions I'd be lucky to see 20dC after 5 mins of idling. Now set my remote start time up to 15 mins since I'm no longer concerned with wet stacking.

I FINALLY feel like the truck is complete. As you may know from other threads the lack of morning heat was really bugging me big time. I'll post back some more when I get some experiences with the high idle in really cold temps.

 

can you do a diagram of what you did? even a crude diagram would be nice as I am a visual learner.lol I would love to have it work with my RS. I have mine hooked to #3 upfitter right now and would like to just power the switches in RS mode.

 

I'm out of town but it's really simple. Pull the cover on the engine bay fusebox. Find slot #32 and use a standard #18-22 AWG female connector. Run a wire from there to a inline 5amp fuse that you can buy from any autoparts store. Run that to one of the passthrough wires that you will find bundled at the back of the fusebox on another harness. Pick anyone of those wires and then go inside the truck and find the other end of it which will be bundled on the main harness by the brake pedal. Run a wire from there to the harness connector on the back of the upfitter switches. Cut the violet wire and connect to the end that goes to the connector. Tape up the other unused violet because it is not a dead wire. Voilà! That should do it.

To get to the upfitter switches you need to pop out the sync and 12V plug. You will see a small slot on the bottom of each. Use a small flat head screwdriver and pry gently. Then the woodgrain panel just pops out. There wasn't a lot of wire on the back of the upfitter connector so I removed the radio and pulled the wire up into that area to give me some room to work. Then I just reinstalled everything.

If your SEIC works now off the upfitters then you won't need to touch that wiring. It shoud be good. All I did was make sure the upfitters get power on RS. Works like a charm. I can also put driving lights on there (or whatever) and not worry about draining the batteries.

 

Dumb question, but if you order a truck w/ the pto option, would you have control of the high idle, not having to to all of this? Going to b ordering a new truck saturday and this would be helpful, THANKS!!

 

PTO is only a preparation package, work still needs to be done to mechanically use the power from the transmission/PTO or to set RPM. What the rest of us are doing is just using the PTO function without an actual load attached via PTO so it's just "high idle"... otherwise it would be just "operating machinery". In its intended application the person installing the equipment using the power take off will know the required or ideal engine speed to operate whatever equipment is added and still has to install the resistor and a trigger (which is probably not just an upfitter switch but from the powered equipment which has its own set of safety interlocks).

 

I did the mod a few months ago and was wondering
I set e-brake flipped the switch with truck in park and my idle went up.
Next I stepped on the brake took e-brake off and shifted into drive ,I moved up a few feet-put the truck in park-set the brake and idle did not bump back up unless i flipped the switch off and then on again.Then it idled back up.Is this normal? With my 05 if i left the upfitter on when I had it in park as soon as I put the e-brake on the idle would go up without messing with the switch again.

 

It's buggy, in my opinion.
Most of the time, I have to turn off the switch and turn it back on as you said.
However, sometimes it will idle up as soon as I apply the p-brake and release the service brake if the switch was already on.
Rare though.

 

Are you guys talking about the trucks that do not have factory remote start? I've noticed mine seams to high idle when I use remote start and do not have ebrake on or any of the other stupid things you need to do to get it to work.

My rig came equipped with remote start from the factory. However putting your foot on the brake pedal with truck in park does not kick the high idle off, only when you shift out of park does the idle go down.

I used to own a dodge ram diesel why couldn't ford have made it as easy like it is on the dodge. not tapping into this wife or running this diode then standing on your head counting to 10 while praying to alah while reading the new testament.

You could go your friendly dodge dealer have them activate it thru there software then you use the cruise control button to set the idle. Simple easy no monkeying around.

Maybe I am asking for too much here from Ford. Maybe that's like having serviceable u joints. Why would they spend the extra penny when 99% of the truck owners probably wont grease them anyhow. Rant over.. lol

 

I don't have remote start.

If it is cold enough, these trucks do run at an elevated idle immediately after the engine turns over.
Mine does this but it's not related to SEIC.
And you're correct, it only idles down once you shift out of park but there doesn't seem to be negative effects.

Once you are done with the SEIC project, you'll smack yourself on the forehead wondering why you were concerned about the whole deal.

 

I know I should do the SEIC mod as I tend to idle the truck a bit in the winter when plowing snow to go and salt a sidewalk quickly or something stupid like that. Prob would help keep the batteries charged better as well. I'll get it done over summer maybe lol..