sound proofing
#1
#3
I did my truck with this The Goods
I also did the inside of the door panels with 2 layers behind the speakers. It made a noticeable difference at first. As in you can hear the improvement over what you've been driving with, but the improvement isn't drastic. Someone who rides in your truck once a month would likely not even notice the difference.
If you do this, you'll need acetone to wipe the metal down to remove the dirt and evaporate off without leaving a film, you'll need a roller to roll the stuff in, you'll need some scissors and a razor knife, and you'll need to wear jeans you plan on throwing away afterward. That butyl stuff creeps out of the seams as you're working and it get's all over you.
Did the wife's truck too. She took pictures
I also did the inside of the door panels with 2 layers behind the speakers. It made a noticeable difference at first. As in you can hear the improvement over what you've been driving with, but the improvement isn't drastic. Someone who rides in your truck once a month would likely not even notice the difference.
If you do this, you'll need acetone to wipe the metal down to remove the dirt and evaporate off without leaving a film, you'll need a roller to roll the stuff in, you'll need some scissors and a razor knife, and you'll need to wear jeans you plan on throwing away afterward. That butyl stuff creeps out of the seams as you're working and it get's all over you.
Did the wife's truck too. She took pictures
#5
I don't remember. It's been a couple of years. If you want to do the floor, double it up in a few places, and do the inside of 4 crew cab doors and the back of the cab, it will take more than one roll. If you just cover the floor and back, and install strips inside the doors, you could probably get by with just one roll.
#7
Used to use 'DynaMat' when I did auto body. Would cover the seams w/ metal tape from the HVAC industry. Heat gun & several sized small hard rollers helps to save your fingers and get into the knooks & crannies. Could check w/ local stereo shop, Eastwood, local auto parts store, maybe Best Buy or other stereo chain store. Could poss do spray in bed liner also. Inside the doors is a good idea too.
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#13
Another cheap option if a person wants to consider, is Peal N Seal at Home Depot. IIRC in my search, it was very inexpensive. I caught a lot of info that it also works wonderfully in cutting out sound and vibrations, as well as heat.
I think it can be found in the Plumbing section. I want to say it was around $20 and two rolls were needed for a CC.
I think it can be found in the Plumbing section. I want to say it was around $20 and two rolls were needed for a CC.
#14
I'm not impressed with the long term adhesion of Peel & Seel, especially if you get it in any vertical applications. Even on the floor, if the stuff comes loose, it loses much of it's deadening capability. Ice & watershield is another one I've heard of as a cheap alternative. If cheaper really worked as good, or almost as good, don't you think Dynamat and the others would offer something similar as an option?
Also for those of us that live in the South or anywhere it tends to get warm in the summer, asphalt based products can emit an odor as that stuff bakes inside the cab on a sunny day.
Also for those of us that live in the South or anywhere it tends to get warm in the summer, asphalt based products can emit an odor as that stuff bakes inside the cab on a sunny day.
#15
F350-6 Real good install on the RAAMMat soundproofing. Does the aluminized surface facing the passengers help with the engine heat at all. Seems like it should be facing the exterior but maybe it wouldn't stick?
I am going to do this but worried I will break a door panel tang and not be able to fix it.
Any thoughts on the overall outcome on this... thanks
I am going to do this but worried I will break a door panel tang and not be able to fix it.
Any thoughts on the overall outcome on this... thanks