Okay, I am dang sure no expert here. Here's my deal. My 50 F1 is my "future" project that I put on hold when my 49 fell into my lap (my wife is gonna kill me). It was "restored" way back when. Right now, I'm just trying to make it safe and enjoy it for a little before I tear it down and start the long process of fixing it right. And there is no way that somebody other than me hasn't hit this little problem. It has a 302 with a C6 transmission. They left enough of the original transmission crossmember to keep the original master cylinder. The transmission has/had a thick homeade metal strap under it to keep it from hitting the ground. The strap was in poor shape and had one bolt through each frame rail. The bolts were slowly cutting themselves completely out of the frame. Hence, my transmission was about ready to hit the ground. So I broke down and called DC and got the typical tubular 3 inch drop crossmember (they said it was the one I need--I know, I should have measured it instead of taking their word for it). It's supposed to mount in its bracket inside the frame rail. The picture will hopefully show my dilema. It's a view of the left side with the crossmember held in place on the pad I bought and bolted in place a few minutes before this. It's laying above my left exhaust pipe and just below the frame rail. First, I'm realizing I probably need a 6 inch drop. Secondly, I'm realizing that even if I had the proper crossmember with the bigger drop, it will hit that master cylinder and the brake switch and cause yet another probleem. So when you guys get finished laughing at the rookie, tell me if there is a crossmember that will mount right where this one is laying or what other options I have. I'm guessing that the vast majority of people who do this get rid of the original brake system long before an engine swap. Trust me, I will do the same in short time. I'm just needing to stabilize this thing for a short period until I tear it down. Thanks in advance guys.

 

Not a rookie question at all - as a matter of fact a great question!

As soon as you said it was a Bonus Cuilt with a C6 in it I felt the pain, but I got the pics of what I think you need and a few words of advice as well. Only difference is, I don't have the exhaust pipe under there.

First, your tube looks too low in your picture. It is supposed to go between the rail top and bottom if it is a round mounting bracket, and over the top of the rail if it is a flat one.

Bad news is Carpenter lied to you. The 3" drop is for a C4 and you need at least the 9" drop (mine may even be 11" or 12") for the C6 (sometimes I have to wonder if those baffoons at Dennis Carpenter know the difference) That big old transmission won't even fit under your floor boards with only a 3 inch drop cross member.

Note in the second picture, my set up has a secondary mounting plate for attaching the transmission to the mount. It is welded to the mount on the crossmember at the original bolt on. That allows the cross member to be bolted in 6 inches farther back and misses your master cylinder!

So here's some pictures of mine. I may do a second post to add some pics. If you need anymore let me know and I'll go out and take some (tomorrow not tonight at 12:30!) more pics or measurements for you.

Here ya go:

 

One big problem you really need to pay attention to in this is that you reset your rear end pinion angle. Changing the transmission height in the back will change it's "level" and the pinion angle on the differential must match that angle withing about 3 degrees.

Here's an article John Niolon wrote about it. Pinion angle is controlled with shims between the back axel and springs - same as castor angle in the front.

Mine was off about 10 degrees and it caused severe vibration problems in the drive shaft.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon...nephasing.html

Another pic - let me know if you need more-or measurements:

 

Thanks Julie! That is exactly what I need. I'm aware that the tube is supposed to go inside the rail. I just left it sitting where it is in that picture to show my problem, plus it didn't have enough drop to go up there even if the master cylinder wasn't there. If you look closely in the picture below that tube, you'll see that stupid homeade strap laying on my garage floor behind it. So my next obvious question is where did you get that mount with that plate that allows the crossmember to set back far enough to miss the master cylinder. The pad that DC sold me bolted right onto the transmission, but it wants the crossmember to go directly beneath it. (I'll be calling those dudes today requesting a refund) That rearward offset is definitely what I need. As far as the pinion angle issue, I'll watch that too. It's a wonder mine hasn't vibrated me off the road considering that metal strap let the whole thing flop around like a dish rag under there.

 

Okay, now that I've woken up enough to focus my eyes, I looked at your pics again. I can see that you most likely made that plate that allowed you to get that crossmember back out of the way. What kind of padding did you use to keep it from cracking, etc. under stress? If anybody knows of a crossmember like this that will allow me to get it back out of the way of that master cylinder, please chime in. Otherwise, I'll just make something like Julie's. Surely this is a common problem considering how many people have dropped these transmissions into these beasts over the years.

 

Shane,

how are your fabricating skills ??? welder and material ??? Crossmembers aren't rocket science... you could fab up whatever you needed with a little bit of 2x2 tubing and some angle iron... even fab in a drop to the depth you needed... it might even been cheaper/faster/easier than trying to make something bought fit the situation...

just a thought.... here's an article that might give you an idea or two..

Building A New transmission Cross Member For A 1953 - 1956 F100 .: Articles


later
John

 

Yeah I figure that is the next plan of action. I can do just enough to get myself in trouble most times, LOL. I was just being lazy and hoping I could just bolt this sucker in and not have to drag the tools out. I dang sure think I can do better than that metal strap they had bolted on it.

 

It might be easier to ditch the C6 and trade it for a C4. It'll fit better without all these hassles, and you'll regain about 30 rear wheel horsepower, too. That's a pretty big percentage from a 302. And before you say you can't afford it, you can sell the small block C6 for far more than you'd have to pay for a good C4. It's just a thought. ;-)

 

Oh I totally agree. And will probably go that route when it's all said and done with the C4. I'm just trying to find something to patch this thing back together until I tear it down sometime this winter or spring (it's in my garage on jack stands with a floor jack holding the tranny up for now). As far as the horsepower, you're definitely right. The truck cruises well, but it sure isn't gonna win a drag race any time soon. I think I found a different crossmember with brackets that mount on the bottom of the frame rail, hence avoiding the master cylinder. But I'm checking to see if the drop will be enough. Otherwise, I'll be making that thing this weekend I imagine. Some of these parts places drive me nuts. I called Mac's auto parts and very clearly explained that I was looking for a transmission crossmember for my 50 F1 that now has a C6 transmission. He checked his computer for a second or so and then told me that I had the "wrong" transmission in my truck, and that wasn't what the truck had from the factory. As a result, he said he couldn't help me. I just politely explained that I was well aware that a C6 automatic transmission did not come out of the factory on a 1950 truck, but I thanked him anyway and hung up the phone.

 

LOLOLOLOLOLOLFOFLPMPLOL! Welcome to the world of custome built trucks.

You will run into that every time you want to buy a part.

Funny story: I drove up to AutoZone the other day to buy a replacement thermostat for my 390. I thought I had put a 140 degree therm. in it to break it in so I bought a 160 degree. Turns out it had a 160 in it - so I'm wanting to bump it up to 180. So I drove back and there was a different guy there (and they all treat me like a mindless female - it's hilarious). Anyway, he asked me what year make and model and I told him (as I have adjusted the routine to go through the drill) What my engine is out of: "1962 Ford 500 With a 390 Police interceptor." He went back and got the 195 thermostat and told me he was out of the 180s. OK 195 is fine.

I drove home and it was the wrong one - too small. So now I'm PO'd because a 20 minute thermostat has taken all afternoon and three (10 mile) trips to the car parts place.

So, I walk in and the guy asks me again what's the year make and model of the truck. Just to be a snot, "I said it's a 1951 Ford F1" hoping the gears would grind as he searched the computer. He asked if it was the V8 or 6 cylinder and I smuggly said "it has a V8 in it." So he went back to get a thermostat, and I was all ready to give him a lecture about not relying on his stupid computer and learning something about car parts.

As it turned out, I looked at it, it was stamped 195* and happened to be the right size (it's his listing for a 239 flathead and still fits a 62 390!). Fit perfect - works perfect - par for the course - I give up!!

I guess I got "punished" for my attitude - you just can't win!

If you have any questions about this kind of stuff, chances are we all know where to get what you need and the part numbers better than some of the folks at the repro houses.

Ask anytime. Where did I get my transmission cross member? Came with the truck but they have them almost any where. I lied btw it's a 6" drop.

Here it is:

Trans Dapt 9424 Trans-Dapt Performance Products Crossmembers | StreetPerformance.com

 

LOL. Thanks. I had a similar thing happen to me at Advance back in July. Just for fun (I thought), I told the guy I needed a left rear wheel cylinder for this 50. Went through the same routine with their computer (except I just pretended it still had the flathead 239 when the routine question arose). I just knew any second he would look up and say something like "are you kidding". Instead, he turned around and walked to the back of the store and brought it out to me. I was slightly shocked and just paid for it and left quite humbled.

But the ultimate is how the people in these stores instantly assume you meant to say "F100" instead of "F1". They always look up when I repeat F1 and eventually say something like "damn, do you mean the first one?". BTW, thanks to those stupid computers, I have learned that a 239 is a "3.9 Liter" engine. Can you imagine going back to 1950 and telling some poor mechanic that you have a 3.9 Liter flathead? I'll let you all know how my crossmember works out (or how far a C6 will roll down the highway, LOL). Thanks.