1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Nubee Questions about door mechanism 52 F1

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  #31  
Old 11-01-2010, 10:08 AM
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Ok thanks, no my door doesn't have the lock hole. Hmmm so it is locked?

No sorry I can't really come home for lunch. Maybe I can take a day off soon.
 
  #32  
Old 11-01-2010, 10:38 AM
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Sounds like it is. Turn #3 to the right and then try to turn the larger square hole to see if #2 will move. If it doesn't, then turn #3 to the left and try again.

Check your email.
 
  #33  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:08 PM
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So, the latch in question is in my possession (traded a regular latch and a window regulator).

At first, I thought the issue would be simple. However, when I opened it up, I found that the cam had a crack in it. Nothing is grabbing the latch cam (togue looking piece) to push it back when the handle is turned. I will need to open up a regular latch to compare it to the parts inside this latch. Something is definitely broken or missing. I just need to figure out what it is.

Has anyone opened up the latch mechanism before and have a picture so that I can compare to mine? It'll be better to know what's wrong without having to open up a completely good latch for comparison.






EDIT: I just remembered that I had another latch in the garage. Went out and looked at it. I was able to turn the handle on the lock and saw that the three point cam (the one that kind of looks like a meat grinder blade) pushed the door latch plate (tongue looking piece). The latch plate was bent at 90 degrees where the three point cam touches it. So, the break of the latch plate in the last picture above is the culprit. I should have a spare to replace it with or will try to have the end on the broken piece welded to make it work.
 
  #34  
Old 11-02-2010, 11:57 PM
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If you pull (fairly hard) on #1, the bolt the bolt should move back.

If it doesn't then the tabs on the end of #1 have worn down and slipped past the retainers on the bolt. They should be overlapping about an inch.

It is also possible that the top tab (in the bottom picture the shiny tongue pointing straight up from the square hole) has broken off.

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On your latch picture, when you turn the #3 thingy (and you need to turn it a full 360 degrees), you should see a little cam rise and fall from under that cover and cram up against the bottom of the piece I have marked "lock cam." When the little tab under that cover is up and prevents that "lock cam" from turning, the door is locked with the key lock. You will still be able to pull on #1 and the bolt will still pull open.

Let me see if I can find my spare. If I can, I'll take it apart again and take pictures to show you whats broken and how to fix it.
 
  #35  
Old 11-03-2010, 12:20 AM
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.....Can't find it - must be in Ilya's garage!

Shoot if he doesn't have one he'll sell you, send me an e-mail and you can send this one to me and I'll fix it for you.
 
  #36  
Old 11-03-2010, 12:42 AM
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Actually, Julie, the latch is all mine now. I met Bob, "hutchie", today while at work and I traded him a regular latch and window regulator for this "broken" latch.
 
  #37  
Old 02-28-2011, 05:40 PM
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Driver's door latch

Well, that's quite a thread on door latches.

I for one, learned a lot.

I just pulled the right and left side from my 51 F-1 and found that the Driver's door latch is cracked in 3 places and will need some welding to repair.

Since it is not a Deluxe and only has a passenger side lock cylinder, a driver's side latch may be easier to find.

Does anyone have a driver's side they would like to sell?

If so P.M. me or e-mail me at burnettd01@sbcglobal.net.

Thanks

Dan
 
  #38  
Old 02-28-2011, 05:51 PM
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So Ilya, did you ever get it working?

I'm having a bear of a time getting the set screw out of my passenger side door barrel lock.

Let me know if you still want that lower grill piece.
 
  #39  
Old 02-28-2011, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by burnettd01
Does anyone have a driver's side they would like to sell?

If so P.M. me or e-mail me at burnettd01@sbcglobal.net.

Thanks

Dan
I'll have to check tomorrow or Wednesday.

Originally Posted by hutchie
So Ilya, did you ever get it working?

I'm having a bear of a time getting the set screw out of my passenger side door barrel lock.

Let me know if you still want that lower grill piece.
Yes and no. I had a friend re-weld (build up) all of the worn out areas on the cams. I just have to reassemble it.

You may need to drill out the set screw and use a regular screw as a replacement.

Yes, I still want the lower grille valance if you don't need it. Won't be until the end of April when I'll be back in your area working on a more permanent basis.
 
  #40  
Old 02-28-2011, 10:13 PM
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Great, yeah I figured drilling it out is the next step.

Sure, let me know when you want to come by. I'll save it for you.
 
  #41  
Old 02-28-2011, 10:14 PM
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when I replaced my locks I ended up drilling out the set screw and all the threads as well. I tack welded a nut flush with the door jam and then cut the head off a bolt and slotted it so I could use a screw driver and it would set flush and not interfere with the door. worked really well. I could post some pics if you like.


Originally Posted by hutchie
So Ilya, did you ever get it working?

I'm having a bear of a time getting the set screw out of my passenger side door barrel lock.

Let me know if you still want that lower grill piece.
 
  #42  
Old 03-15-2011, 09:05 PM
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Ok, Newbie here. Just went to the salvage yard and picked up a passenger side remote door latch assembly. Only the guy took the sawzall to the inside door handle post instead of popping the pin to remove the inside handle. Wait, your are wondering why I needed a remote door latch assembly aren't you. I have a 51 PU and the little spring for the inside handle is busted and the notch on the bar that catches to open the door from the inside is worn round. It won't catch and pulls by. Luckily I can open the door from the outside still. Now back to the story.. I straightened the tabs to remove the inside handle post from the new assembly and straightened the tabs on the original as I needed the original post. Needed the spring too. I went to put it back together and the tabs busted. Seems the old metal won't bend too well. I am going to see a welder and have him tack it where it needs to be. I am wondering if there is any way to remove the play in the bar where it engages the latch so "pull by" won't happen in the future. Any help is appreciated.
 
  #43  
Old 03-16-2011, 12:18 AM
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I thing Julie pretty much covered all the diagrams, LOL, This will definatly help in my restoration!!
 
  #44  
Old 03-16-2011, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Huskersteel
Ok, Newbie here. Just went to the salvage yard and picked up a passenger side remote door latch assembly. Only the guy took the sawzall to the inside door handle post instead of popping the pin to remove the inside handle. Wait, your are wondering why I needed a remote door latch assembly aren't you. I have a 51 PU and the little spring for the inside handle is busted and the notch on the bar that catches to open the door from the inside is worn round. It won't catch and pulls by. Luckily I can open the door from the outside still. Now back to the story.. I straightened the tabs to remove the inside handle post from the new assembly and straightened the tabs on the original as I needed the original post. Needed the spring too. I went to put it back together and the tabs busted. Seems the old metal won't bend too well. I am going to see a welder and have him tack it where it needs to be. I am wondering if there is any way to remove the play in the bar where it engages the latch so "pull by" won't happen in the future. Any help is appreciated.
The spring is available new. It's the same as in a 40s Ford car latch. You'd need to disassemble the latch where the spring would go, put in the spring and then reassemble.
 
  #45  
Old 03-16-2011, 09:52 AM
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PanelMan, Thanks for the info. Am I correct in my assumption that I will have to weld the covers, the parts with the tabs bent to hold them in place, since the tabs busted when I straightened them for removal? And is the Spring you are referring to the flat piece of metal that would help keep the flat bar tight to the piece it slides by? Or are you talking about the coil spring in the latch? Or the little spring that runs the inside door handle part of the mechanism Sorry for the lack of knowledge on part names. I hope you can understand what I'm asking.
 


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