upper and lower ball joints on my 02
#16
You can expect to pay about $300- $347 for a parts kit depending on a OEM or aftermarket
Here are some kits:
OEM!! www.partsguyed.com
You are going to need to make or borrow an axle seal installation tool.
Also, if your u joints are looking tired,now is a great time to replace them.
The link provided above is a great tool.
Here are some kits:
OEM!! www.partsguyed.com
You are going to need to make or borrow an axle seal installation tool.
Also, if your u joints are looking tired,now is a great time to replace them.
The link provided above is a great tool.
#17
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Chino Valley, Arizona
Posts: 9,297
Received 3,744 Likes
on
1,147 Posts
#18
#19
For the upper ball joint zerk use a 90*, all you need to do is grind down the top of the zerk a little so the u-joint doesn't rub on the thing.
I had mine disassembled (both sides) in about three hours plus the old BJ's (biggest PITA) out. Had a shop that I deal with all the time press the new one in and check my wheel bearing, u-joints and knuckle seals, which I needed new knuckle seals because one was bad. This was the first time I've ever done BJ's and it wasn't that bad.
I would go with partsguyed's kit that is a heck of a price for everything, plus their OEM
I would recommend having a pickle fork, nice torque wrench, pry bars, breaker bar, and some jack stands plus all the right sockets.
...Tom
I had mine disassembled (both sides) in about three hours plus the old BJ's (biggest PITA) out. Had a shop that I deal with all the time press the new one in and check my wheel bearing, u-joints and knuckle seals, which I needed new knuckle seals because one was bad. This was the first time I've ever done BJ's and it wasn't that bad.
I would go with partsguyed's kit that is a heck of a price for everything, plus their OEM
I would recommend having a pickle fork, nice torque wrench, pry bars, breaker bar, and some jack stands plus all the right sockets.
...Tom
#20
#22
I did mine not too long ago and I put 90* and left them on. I took my drimmel and ground them down enough to clear the U-joints. Knowing what I know now I would do it again. Check your axel seals, they were hard for me to find and a hugh PITA. At one point I was sure I would be looking for a new front end.
#23
Check out what Racerguy posted.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
I am 73 years old, and I followed the above, and did both sides in about 8 hours.
I was able to use a friends press. Some one posted about a seal tool made from 1 1/4 " pipe flange and an 8" nipple and an end cap to make a seal installer. Worked great.
I followed Guzzles thread on on bearing lube and resealing the ESOF.
Welcome to guzzle's Ford PSD Maintenance Web Page
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
I am 73 years old, and I followed the above, and did both sides in about 8 hours.
I was able to use a friends press. Some one posted about a seal tool made from 1 1/4 " pipe flange and an 8" nipple and an end cap to make a seal installer. Worked great.
I followed Guzzles thread on on bearing lube and resealing the ESOF.
Welcome to guzzle's Ford PSD Maintenance Web Page
#24
....Tom
#25
#26
#27
you might want to ask which brand of ball joints he is going to use for that price. sounds like the 10 dollar autozone ones......
#28
I've already had a set of Moogs go bad after only about 30K miles, and the job was done by a good shop with knowledgeable mechanics.
After the two they did, I've done six other sets of uppers & lowers on three different trucks, but all were 2WD. I've got it down to about 4 hours for both uppers and lowers on both sides now, but again, that's for a 2WD.
As for which brand.... Moog is sworn by for a lot of folks. I've also used XRF ball joints (million mile warranty, but made in China), and have had absolutely no trouble from them at all. The machining in the joint seems to eb closer in tolerance than the Moogs I've seen, and they're less expensive than the Moogs.
(XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Canada and Unites States).
I would suggest going ahead and installing dual adjustable camber bushings while you're in there, especially if you're going to be looking at increasing front end height in the future.
The total parts price for ball joints and camber bushings for my 2Wd trucks have run in the neighborhood of around $200-$225 IIRC.
After the two they did, I've done six other sets of uppers & lowers on three different trucks, but all were 2WD. I've got it down to about 4 hours for both uppers and lowers on both sides now, but again, that's for a 2WD.
As for which brand.... Moog is sworn by for a lot of folks. I've also used XRF ball joints (million mile warranty, but made in China), and have had absolutely no trouble from them at all. The machining in the joint seems to eb closer in tolerance than the Moogs I've seen, and they're less expensive than the Moogs.
(XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Canada and Unites States).
I would suggest going ahead and installing dual adjustable camber bushings while you're in there, especially if you're going to be looking at increasing front end height in the future.
The total parts price for ball joints and camber bushings for my 2Wd trucks have run in the neighborhood of around $200-$225 IIRC.
#29
#30
have parts
Just got all my front end parts. So on Monday I'll start.
I'm going to try the XRF ball joint's, tie-rods and drag link kit.
I got new needle bearings just encase.
new inner axle seals from ford to Fix leak.
new diff gasket.
new hub seals.
new dust seals.
new yellow o-ring, ford.
new locking hub o-rings.
I bought the C press, ball joint installer.
With all the info and pictures of the removal and installation, Things should go great.
Need to check U joints while axle is out.
And , note to self.. ice the gears.. LOL.
Thanks for all the input guys..
I'm not going to rush this, so it will take a day or two..
I'll give you the feedback on the ball-joints and tie-rod kit.
I'm going to try the XRF ball joint's, tie-rods and drag link kit.
I got new needle bearings just encase.
new inner axle seals from ford to Fix leak.
new diff gasket.
new hub seals.
new dust seals.
new yellow o-ring, ford.
new locking hub o-rings.
I bought the C press, ball joint installer.
With all the info and pictures of the removal and installation, Things should go great.
Need to check U joints while axle is out.
And , note to self.. ice the gears.. LOL.
Thanks for all the input guys..
I'm not going to rush this, so it will take a day or two..
I'll give you the feedback on the ball-joints and tie-rod kit.