The Ford Power Steering likes a bit of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Dunno why but it has quieted and made them work better on both my trucks. They may spec Type F, but they like Mobil 1.

I just drive my 82 every day to work and back. Reliable as me going to hell, much as I try to be good.

 

I used Dexron 6 full synthetic in my Ford PS pump, it really quieted the pump down and made the steering box work a lot smoother. I then saw the Mobil full synthetic ATF at Fred Meyer for 6 bucks a quart after the fact... lol

 

Nice metric conversion info for the Italian Gary!

 

Thanks, but pace car actually asked how many quarts to buy and later said he had purchased X quarts. So, apparently the ATF comes in quarts there? Oh well, I tried.

 

Today, I did more wood with the old Ford.

This time, pictures!

This was an entire elm tree.

Estimated weight was just near a ton.

Only about an inch and a half of space at most between the wheel and bed.

 

Good lawdy.... I guess you weren't kidding about last time. That is a great example of Built Ford Tough .

 

You could go down the road like that 45 miles an hour. The truck moves it like it wasn't there, believe it or not. I can pull it into 4-wheel low and 1st gear and it idles over stumps like that, also.

The only thing is, the truck is all over the road until the tires warm up.

I don't have a tag on it yet, as there are some things I have to do to get it road worthy. Found out it needs a new alternator and voltage regulator, still got to change those lifters, it needs a new brake booster (drove it during the move loaded down with about 700 lbs and manual brakes... NO FUN), got to put some metal in the clutch linkage still, a new rag joint, and a few other odds and ins. Until then, it serves great as a landscaping vehicle. It carried a small load of dirt earlier today to smooth out a spot in the driveway.

 

I am gonna give this a shot. Any thoughts on using Royal Purple ATF?

Thing is, I don't ever notice my PS pump making any noise unless I'm trying to turn the wheels while stopped or if I have it all the way to either lock. The only time it's ever made any real noticeable noise was the time the steering box spit out the bottom seal and did a complete system drain. Then again I may just not hear it because it blends in with the other engine sounds.


Last night I reinstalled my MSD box. As in, I did a permanent install instead of having it sitting in a corner against the fender and firewall with wires everywhere. Bolted it down to the passenger side fender next to the battery, wired it straight to the battery with a 10A mini fuse (one of those SmartFuses with the little light on it, hehe) and ran the wires all nice and neat. Still need to see about whether or not I can pull the distributor apart and replace the part that has the three wires coming out, since the one on there now has really brittle wiring on it and I don't really like the way it's spliced together with the MSD box. But it works so...

And now I don't have a buzzing coming from my radio with the engine running. I think that was caused by the fact that I had the main power wire connected to a random heavy gauge wire coming out of the firewall (it was constant 12V, don't know what it was for) and used the big wingnut-bolt for a ground, the one that holds down the factory tire irons.

Now it runs better, sounds different, and it smells like the fuel is actually being burned completely instead of only partially. lol

 

I'm not sure about Royal Purple, never tried that stuff never will lol. The only time I hear my PS pump whine now is on full lock or turning it, before it used to whine just at idle. It would whine loud while turning it, and really loud in full lock, new fluid took that away and made the operating noise quite a bit quieter. I can't hear it going down the road anymore. best of all it's really nice to drive now, before it used to be constant correcting from the steering box sticking, doesn't do that anymore.

 

The only time my power steering pump whines is when it's either low on fluid, or when I'm turning the wheel. If the steering wheel isn't moving, it won't make a peep.

But like was said, when the seal on the steering box goes, it'll whine REALLY loud. I mean, you can hear it a good distance away!

Mine doesn't bother me enough to worry about it.

4000 rpm or lugging at 400 RPM, my pump is quiet.

Also, did another load of wood today. This one slightly heavier than the last.

In total, there are 35 trees split nicely and stacked to the right of my truck. All hickory, oak, or elm. It's about 2 grand worth of wood.

 

Today I did quite a bit of stuff. But it was dark when I finished all of my stuff, so no pictures of the stuff I did.

On a serious note, it looks like I'm gonna have to replace about 30% of my cab floor. I'm not happy about that at all, but I'm just gonna have to buck up and weld in some patch panels. I can buy a complete rust free bare cab from the junkyard for cheaper than it would cost to buy Chinese repair panels, so once I figure out the welding game and become proficient at it, I'll remove the cab from the frame and start repairing all of the holy areas.

 

Shaun, if you can get a complete, bare, rust free cab from the junkyard for less than the cost of the patch panels, then why not just get the complete cab and renovate it from the inside out? I can guarantee you if 30% of your cab floor is rust, there's more rust in places you haven't seen yet.

I could see all new paint on the inside of the new cab, bed line the floor, insulation and sound deadening material on top of that, rubber floor mat or carpet, brand new repainted interior pieces...

If I had a rust free cab to go on my truck, I'd have it on there and it'd be NICE man!

 

Good excuse, but still no cigar w/o pics.

Welcome to my world. But, I hadn't thought about my truck being holy. Anyway, I'm not sure I have to replace 30%, but at least the whole passenger's floorboard. Can't say I'm proficient at welding yet, but I'm better than I thought I was now that I have the right wire.

Are you going to flange it and overlap, or butt weld?

 

I could just swap cabs, but then all of my sheet metal date stamps would be off, and I'd have to have a new VIN number assigned to the truck. Most of you guys know how I am about dates.

I want to keep the original cab since the rust is mainly on the driver's side. The biggest hole is only about 4 inches wide. But there are about 7 other quarter-sized holes spread throughout. The rusty sections of the floor are pretty solid overall, I can kick the floor with my boot and it doesn't crack. But that obviously won't last forever. The passenger side has a few small dime-sized holes, but that's it. The bottom of the firewall is also rusting out, much like the front bed panels do. Other than that, everything else is rust free.

I'd like to butt weld the patches in, so that the bottom and top of the patches appear to be one with the rest of the original sheet metal.

BUTT(), the original sheet metal is quite thin, so I have to worry about heating up the metal too fast and warping it. I don't think that would be as much of an issue with the flange and overlap technique. More than likely I'll end up going with seamless welds, and just weld on alternating sections of the panel to allow each section to cool down before I heat it up again.

 

im in need of help guys im breaking the mounts off my starter its now my 3rd one and its the same mount every time shoild i look into a better starter with stronger lugs keep in mind that it has to be small in size to clear my headers or should i look into my flex plate/fly wheel PLEZZZZZ HELP btw its a 4.9l i6