What have you done to your truck today?
#7426
Had a field day at the junkyard today. I came home with everything I and another member were looking for.
Pics or it didn't happen? It definitely happened.
Tall transmission inspection cover, transmission shift boot, and transfer case shift boot for Gary(Lewis).
V8 DSII wiring harness. It's mainly un-molested, but it's missing some of either the coolant temp wire, or the oil pressure sending unit wire. I have enough wire to make a new one however, so I'm not too worried about that. I'm not even really sure if it's the correct one I need, I'm still looking into that.
Not pictured is the spindle I picked up from a newly released 1982 Bronco.
And that means that my F150 is back on all four wheels again.
Pics or it didn't happen? It definitely happened.
Tall transmission inspection cover, transmission shift boot, and transfer case shift boot for Gary(Lewis).
V8 DSII wiring harness. It's mainly un-molested, but it's missing some of either the coolant temp wire, or the oil pressure sending unit wire. I have enough wire to make a new one however, so I'm not too worried about that. I'm not even really sure if it's the correct one I need, I'm still looking into that.
Not pictured is the spindle I picked up from a newly released 1982 Bronco.
And that means that my F150 is back on all four wheels again.
#7429
The Dark Chamois Metallic has tiny gold flakes that make up the metallic. It's a gorgeous color when the sun hits it.
As for the RAL number, I'm not sure what that is.
#7430
Some of the newer manual transmissions, such as the ZF5 have tall cases, and they interfere with the older 1980-1987 inspection covers. So Ford added some height to the newer inspection covers to clear the transmission, mainly the shifter base.
Gary needs one because the ZF5 he is adding to his 1981 hits the bottom of his original inspection cover.
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Just read through my wiring diagrams trying to figure out which wires are which on my DSII harness. The wire that has been cut is the oil pressure sending unit wire. I also realized that the coolant temp sensor wire may be too short to work with my 400, which has the coolant temp switch on the passenger side front of the block. The harness came from a 302 Bronco, and 302's have their coolant temp switch on the driver's side of the intake. I could have sworn that all of the DSII V8 harness' were the same among the 302/351W and 351M/400, so I'm gonna do some measuring before I start soldering.
Luckily, I was smart enough to grab the entire dash harness from my 82 F250 parts truck, and so I was able to grab about 3 feet worth of the correct color wires I need to fix the oil pressure wire, and possibly extend the coolant temp wire.
Gary needs one because the ZF5 he is adding to his 1981 hits the bottom of his original inspection cover.
----------------------------
Just read through my wiring diagrams trying to figure out which wires are which on my DSII harness. The wire that has been cut is the oil pressure sending unit wire. I also realized that the coolant temp sensor wire may be too short to work with my 400, which has the coolant temp switch on the passenger side front of the block. The harness came from a 302 Bronco, and 302's have their coolant temp switch on the driver's side of the intake. I could have sworn that all of the DSII V8 harness' were the same among the 302/351W and 351M/400, so I'm gonna do some measuring before I start soldering.
Luckily, I was smart enough to grab the entire dash harness from my 82 F250 parts truck, and so I was able to grab about 3 feet worth of the correct color wires I need to fix the oil pressure wire, and possibly extend the coolant temp wire.
#7431
Shaun, the DSII harness for a 460 is different, it like the 351M/400 has the oil pressure sender at the back, temp on intake like 302/351W.
Today I started the hard part of the 4 door power conversion, the left front door and cab harness changes. Since I already had a 96 2 door power window, lock and mirror harness in the truck it should be easy, right, wrong answer. The power window lock and mirror harness runs from the left door, across the firewall to the right. The only two plugs are one on the left where it plugs into the cab harness and right so the right door harness is separate. I ended up pulling enough slack to allow me to splice the 8 or 9 wires in the cross cowl portion so I didn't have to pull the dash.
I now have 3 doors with power locks and windows, both front and left rear, tomorrow, I should get the right rear done and the harness pulled under the carpet.
Today I started the hard part of the 4 door power conversion, the left front door and cab harness changes. Since I already had a 96 2 door power window, lock and mirror harness in the truck it should be easy, right, wrong answer. The power window lock and mirror harness runs from the left door, across the firewall to the right. The only two plugs are one on the left where it plugs into the cab harness and right so the right door harness is separate. I ended up pulling enough slack to allow me to splice the 8 or 9 wires in the cross cowl portion so I didn't have to pull the dash.
I now have 3 doors with power locks and windows, both front and left rear, tomorrow, I should get the right rear done and the harness pulled under the carpet.
#7432
#7434
Shaun, the DSII harness for a 460 is different, it like the 351M/400 has the oil pressure sender at the back, temp on intake like 302/351W.
Today I started the hard part of the 4 door power conversion, the left front door and cab harness changes. Since I already had a 96 2 door power window, lock and mirror harness in the truck it should be easy, right, wrong answer. The power window lock and mirror harness runs from the left door, across the firewall to the right. The only two plugs are one on the left where it plugs into the cab harness and right so the right door harness is separate. I ended up pulling enough slack to allow me to splice the 8 or 9 wires in the cross cowl portion so I didn't have to pull the dash.
I now have 3 doors with power locks and windows, both front and left rear, tomorrow, I should get the right rear done and the harness pulled under the carpet.
Today I started the hard part of the 4 door power conversion, the left front door and cab harness changes. Since I already had a 96 2 door power window, lock and mirror harness in the truck it should be easy, right, wrong answer. The power window lock and mirror harness runs from the left door, across the firewall to the right. The only two plugs are one on the left where it plugs into the cab harness and right so the right door harness is separate. I ended up pulling enough slack to allow me to splice the 8 or 9 wires in the cross cowl portion so I didn't have to pull the dash.
I now have 3 doors with power locks and windows, both front and left rear, tomorrow, I should get the right rear done and the harness pulled under the carpet.
Thanks!
#7435
The A/C is up and going again today with a different compressor.
I put a smart VOV in it (instead of the fixed red tube) since it was appart. It wasn't taking the refrigerant very fast, I could only get the system to take 2.2 lbs of R134A. My 30LB cylinder still weighs in at 23.40 lbs but I couldn't hardly get the system to pull more. Turning the valve up made the low side pressure go up but it didn't want to suck more in very fast. Maybe I should try putting a little bit in it without the engine at full temp? The AC is cold but I think I can get a little bit more out of it.
I put a smart VOV in it (instead of the fixed red tube) since it was appart. It wasn't taking the refrigerant very fast, I could only get the system to take 2.2 lbs of R134A. My 30LB cylinder still weighs in at 23.40 lbs but I couldn't hardly get the system to pull more. Turning the valve up made the low side pressure go up but it didn't want to suck more in very fast. Maybe I should try putting a little bit in it without the engine at full temp? The AC is cold but I think I can get a little bit more out of it.
#7436
What have you done to your truck today?
Gary, the power window/lock harness is an add on all the way through 96/7 years. The location of the "short" end of the harness changed somewhere, probably 92 from left to right. The harness runs across the cowl just below the windshield. On the 86 and the 90 parts truck, it plugs into the fuse box, the 92 up it follows a convoluted path from the dash harness where the interior fuse box is, onto the interior cab harness and then to the left front door harness. On a crew cab with full power, the interior cab harness carries the rear door window/lock wiring also.
#7437
Gary, the power window/lock harness is an add on all the way through 96/7 years. The location of the "short" end of the harness changed somewhere, probably 92 from left to right. The harness runs across the cowl just below the windshield. On the 86 and the 90 parts truck, it plugs into the fuse box, the 92 up it follows a convoluted path from the dash harness where the interior fuse box is, onto the interior cab harness and then to the left front door harness. On a crew cab with full power, the interior cab harness carries the rear door window/lock wiring also.
#7438
Today I'm tackling my DSII harness. I will be adding some length to both the oil pressure sending unit wire, and the coolant temp switch wire. I need to do some grease removal on the existing wiring, and then heat shrink my solder joints, as well as re-wrap the entire harness in tape. I need to figure out what I'm going to do for connectors as well. I may have to take a trip to Napa and see what I can come up with.
#7439
Today I'm tackling my DSII harness. I will be adding some length to both the oil pressure sending unit wire, and the coolant temp switch wire. I need to do some grease removal on the existing wiring, and then heat shrink my solder joints, as well as re-wrap the entire harness in tape. I need to figure out what I'm going to do for connectors as well. I may have to take a trip to Napa and see what I can come up with.
#7440
I know you won't like this idea, but IIRC those connectors are 1/4" quick disconnects. So, you can go ghetto and just shrink-wrap each connection and dispense with the plastic plug or socket, or possibly pull the terminal and insert a new one. Been there, done that, but don't ask which approach I used.
I will be using the best approach that gets me to a factory appearance. That means no rigging whatsoever.
I already rigged enough stuff on this truck when I didn't really care about it, but now that I care, I refuse to rig anything.