Not working on the truck today, but I am doing a trans filter, fluid and gasket change today on my mom's 96 Cherokee.

Everything's gone fine so far, but someone at Chrysler thought that having the dipstick tube go directly into the pan was a good idea. It has a little junction where it comes apart in the middle of the tube so you can remove the pan, but it's not easy when the seal inside is dried out. Had to button everything back up last night when it got dark and try again today. May call in the propane torch to help. lol

I wanted to go ahead and do the service since the ATF was brown and smelled burnt, and the trans was shifting a little late and hard. For 232k miles it's not doing too bad...

 

A transfusion did wonders for my SiL's Cherokee. It was slipping badly in Reverse, but that cured it. So, I think you are wise to do the same.

 

I did a service on my truck last year I believe it was -- it fixed a number of issues with late shifts and such. But with my truck, even with new fluid and a filter, it's still a 30yo transmission that's wearing out.

With this Jeep though, I'm interested in seeing what a new filter and new fluid will do for it. I would have liked to put some Lucas trans fix in it as well but maybe another time. Eventually I am going to do a total drain (the service I'm doing this time is only partial, it doesn't replace what's in the TC) and at that point I'll put in some Lucas.

I just wish my brother in law would hurry and get here so we can get this thing done, it's sat overnight with the pan held on by two bolts only and it's making me nervous.

 

I don't normally recommend a trans flush by a shop, as it can stir up all the crud that is laying in the bottom of the pan, and doesn't even address the filter that needs to be changed. But, since you are dropping the pan to change the filter, and surely intend to clean off the layer of crud inside the pan, having a trans flush done afterwards wouldn't be a bad idea.
A trans flush *usually* involves disconnecting one of the cooler lines and pumping the old fluid out while pumping in new fluid. It's one of the quickest/cheapest ways to replace all the fluid in an auto trans that isn't a Ford. Ford thoughtfully provided a drain plug in the convertor, and removing it during a fluid/filter change will allow for getting most of the old fluid out in 1 go.

 

Yea, it's gonna be all cleaned up already before I have a flush done. I really would like to get all the old burnt fluid out sometime in the near future, but until then at least it'll have a lot of fresh fluid in it too.

I didn't remove that plug when I serviced my C6...I had heard removing it could cause leaks so I left it alone. But before it comes time to do another fluid change I'll be rebuilding or replacing the trans anyway. Maybe with a T-18 or something, just depends on what I can find.

 

That plug is a pipe plug, and will seal w/o any sealant on it. But, I use just a bit of PTFE pipe dope to ensure it'll seal. I would NOT use teflon tape as it could let go and get in the valve body.

 

My wife's 2000 Honda Odyssey has 100,000 miles on it. The tranny started shifting weird. These minvans are known for failing trannys. So I figured it was about to go out on me. I did a drain and fill only. It improved the shifts and reduced noise. Then a long time mechanic friend of mine suggested DG products ATF additive. It comes in I think a 8-10oz can. I put some in the tranny of the van and it has completely cured all the noise and weird shift habits. Knock on wood.

 

Oh ok. I guess some people don't know what they're talking about. lol

Oh and I forgot to tell you guys that the engineers at Chrysler have a twisted sense of humor, they have the exhaust AND trans crossmember positioned so as to almost block access to the pan bolts front and rear. Sides are no problem. But I ended up having to buy a new socket in order to do all this. Oh well, I needed it anyway...lol

And FWIW I've used the Lucas Trans Fix additive on several occasions in my C6 and it's firmed up shifts every time. Even helped with slippage on trips. But switching to B&M Trick Shift helped too, it seems to allow for a little more bite.

 

You think that stuff will work on a E4OD with a lock-up converter?

 

My dad was a mechanic for many years, his theory of "engineers" was that they took a mechanic, and beat every last once of sense outta the guy, then called him an engineer.......

B&M trick shift is mostly comprised of type "F" ATF, with a few additives in it, similar to most other trans additives......
Older Ford autos used type F, but around 80-83 they started using dexron (GM) crap. 1st was the AOD, soon followed by the rest.
Old Ford mechanics had a cure for trans issues, especially under warranty. Drain the "GM crap" out, and put in "real" ATF........

 

I heard the switch was due to a change in clutch materials inside the transmission. Regardless, I've used TS to top off every time I get low (pan leaks, new gasket didn't fix it, it's not a bad enough leak that I want to take it back apart) and it's probably running straight TS by now lol. I ran Dex/Merc before.

The Cherokee has the Aisin-Warner AW4 auto transmission, which has 4th as OD. It's been a good transmission all these years (my 95 has the same trans as well).

 

If Dexron is better, why did nearly every Japanese auto trans call for type F?
Yes, the switch was partly due to clutch material changes. Mostly, it was because type F has more additives in it, therefore cost more to produce. Saving even $.01 per vehicle adds up at the end of the year.......

 

Cus even the Japs know Ford is the best

Don't see why not, from what I understand it's a sort of universal product. I think it blends with various fluids. (BTW, didn't see your post earlier)

 

I'm getting my first dose of AOD woes with the wagon. R engages fine. 2-3-OD work fine. Starting from a dead stop involves a lot of shuddering. It also dropped into N, I believe, going around a right hand turn today. Time to go to a pro and open my wallet I believe. Going to adjust the TV cable and double check the fluid levels right now.

 

Those Standard Radiators were notorious for overheating in stop and go driving, even without a/c.

The larger radiators, with the fan shroud, were avaliable as standard on Factory equipped A/C models, and optional on trucks without a/c as the Super Cool Option.

I'd swap that smaller radiator out for the larger one. The 1980-1984 supports have mountings for both, and is what the dealer should have done when the dealer A/C was installed.

I'd go one step further though and would replace the radiator support from a wrecker for the extra width opening.

Replacing the support and getting the larger radiator and shroud isn't that hard to do. They do cool a lot better, have more surface area and fins, have a fan shroud instead of just a Fan Guard, and have a quart more coolant.