Whats normal???
The thing that bothers me is that the temp gauge, and I know that these gauges suck for accuracy but, when jus normal daily driving stop and go the gauge will stay in the m to a area on normal. Where does your guys temp gauge read when driving? When im towing it will get close to L if it im working the engine. When I sit still for a while it will cool down to m again but it sometimes takes a few minutes. The water pump is new thermostat is new, and the radiator is flushed clean but the does have some fins that are messed up.
One more for the experts. Does the fan clutch when it engages, I was told that it should sound like a small airplane under the hood. But I dont hear anything but it is spinning with the motor. When i shut the engine off the fan you can turn it but it is really stiff to turn. I know that is good meaning that the spring has engaged to lock up the clutch but I dont know if it is doin its job cooling the radiator off. Also when you squeeze the upper radiator hose it has got a lot of pressure in it. Like it is super stiff to squeeze, like I dont want to squeeze it cause it is that hard to. When the motor is cool you can squeeze it all you want like normal.
Collaborate time im getting the popcorn lol!!!
Real gauge reads 180* (180* t-stat)
F250 gauge barelly got to N, NORMAL when regular driving. NO while towing (4000lbs trailer)
And heres what a fully locked in Fan Clutch sounds like:
YouTube - What a Fully Locked in Fan Clutch Should Sound Like

Pulling 8700 pounds up a 3 mile 7% grade on a day it was in the low 90's I could barely hear my fan lock in over the roar of the straight pipes. I just watch the gauge hit 210 then drop back down lol
i didn't know it was running warm until i installed a real gauge,and saw 230 degree temps.
so with my truck N = 230 degrees.
a total flush,new hoses,motorcraft thermostat,and cap and i went down to 210/215 i think it was.cooler now as the temps dropped.so my fan should have kicked in.but it didn't.so i'll need my electric fan conversion before next summer(or soon if i do decide to get a plow.)
my fan turns stiff too,but its shot evidently.
the stock gauge simply can't be trusted.not sure why ford even bothered putting them in there lol.-iv always heard how poor they are,but it takes finding out for yourself first hand to really know it.they really are worthless junk like everyone says.
John,at what time in the clip does the fan engage?
motorcraft doesn't make a 180 degree thermostat.does international? or is it just aftermarket?
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i didn't know it was running warm until i installed a real gauge,and saw 130 degree temps.
so with my truck N = 130 degrees.
a total flush,new hoses,motorcraft thermostat,and cap and i went down to 210/215 i think it was.cooler now as the temps dropped.so my fan should have kicked in.but it didn't.so i'll need my electric fan conversion before next summer(or soon if i do decide to get a plow.)
my fan turns stiff too,but its shot evidently.
the stock gauge simply can't be trusted.not sure why ford even bothered putting them in there lol.-iv always heard how poor they are,but it takes finding out for yourself first hand to really know it.they really are worthless junk like everyone says.
John,at what time in the clip does the fan engage?
motorcraft doesn't make a 180 degree thermostat.does international? or is it just aftermarket?
180* T-stat comes from an International Dealer.
Thx ididieseljohn for the vid. Ive been lookin for something like that and If I did that It will be probly close to L in normal if I get on it hard.
why would spend the $ to buy a radiator before fixing the fan clutch that you know already is broke and needs to be replaced even if you did buy a new radiator?
not saying it couldn't use a good boiling,or replacement too.but i kinda think a real coolant temp gauge,an accurate reading of coolant mix,and then a fixed fan clutch would be priority.
also,you need to replace that thermostat with a international or motorcraft only.-there are VERY sound reasons for this that a good search here in the idi section will show you.
i always test and replace whats broken first.this saves me a crap load of $.
from there,i weigh cost with my affordability and the history of the past,for preventative maintenance while im into the project.
thanks John!
im gunna see about finding that one next summer.(the motorcraft 192 is great for super warm heat in the cab in the winter.)
<a href="http://s209.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/lude1990/?action=view¤t=10242010-001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/lude1990/10242010-001.jpg" border="0" alt="temp"></a>
It will read on the other side of M and some on A when in stop and go traffic.
And this is what I hauled today
<a href="http://s209.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/lude1990/?action=view¤t=10242010-002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/lude1990/10242010-002.jpg" border="0" alt="firewood haul"></a>
FORD250 I used prestone antifreeze and my coolant tester thing says it is good down to -25 degrees Fahrenheit. 4 ***** are floating.
I have ordered a new fan clutch and should be here some time middle of the week im guessing. If the new fan clutch doesnt help out alot then I will change the thermostat but Im not to worried about it.
I will be getting gauges as soon as I get more money. Need to sell jobs so I can afford to beef up the front end and put a plow on for the winter.



