Electrical Problems
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Joined: May 2010
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Electrical Problems
I'm having some electrical problems.
1. None of my controls on my steering wheel are working: cruise, horn, and airbag light is flashing. I've checked all fuses.
2. My front gas tank is not working. When I switch it, truck dies. Is their a way to check the pump without removing? Or what's the best way to check?
3. My temp gauge zeros out when I start the truck and never reads.
4. Truck is staggering a bit and small mis fire. I've changed plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, o2 sensor, and maf sensor. When I unplug the maf sensor, seems to be no change in idol or performance, but check engine light comes on.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!
1. None of my controls on my steering wheel are working: cruise, horn, and airbag light is flashing. I've checked all fuses.
2. My front gas tank is not working. When I switch it, truck dies. Is their a way to check the pump without removing? Or what's the best way to check?
3. My temp gauge zeros out when I start the truck and never reads.
4. Truck is staggering a bit and small mis fire. I've changed plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, o2 sensor, and maf sensor. When I unplug the maf sensor, seems to be no change in idol or performance, but check engine light comes on.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
1. Sounds like it is an issue with the clock spring. What year truck and what engine?
2. You can listen for the pump when you first (2 seconds) turn the key to run, or you can ground the fuel pump pin in the diagnostic connector under the hood (as long as it's not OBD-II). I would double check for 12V at the fuel tank connector and if there is 12V, the pump is likely the problem.
3. It's either a broken wire, a failed sender, a poor ground path between the sensor and the engine, or a poor ground path somewhere between the engine and the gauge. Test the wiring and the gauge by momentarily grounding the sender wire with the key on - the gauge should read full "hot." If not, start checking the wiring between the sender and the gauge, along with the gauge itself.
4. Start by checking for codes. It'll either by by jumping the SIG RTN wire to STI wire in the diagnostic connector or an OBD-II scan tool depending on the year of your truck. Any guess at a failing part will be a shot in the dark without some kind of troubleshooting process.
2. You can listen for the pump when you first (2 seconds) turn the key to run, or you can ground the fuel pump pin in the diagnostic connector under the hood (as long as it's not OBD-II). I would double check for 12V at the fuel tank connector and if there is 12V, the pump is likely the problem.
3. It's either a broken wire, a failed sender, a poor ground path between the sensor and the engine, or a poor ground path somewhere between the engine and the gauge. Test the wiring and the gauge by momentarily grounding the sender wire with the key on - the gauge should read full "hot." If not, start checking the wiring between the sender and the gauge, along with the gauge itself.
4. Start by checking for codes. It'll either by by jumping the SIG RTN wire to STI wire in the diagnostic connector or an OBD-II scan tool depending on the year of your truck. Any guess at a failing part will be a shot in the dark without some kind of troubleshooting process.
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