hard starting six
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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hard starting six
I am restoring a 82 f100 straight 6 . Todays problem when ever the motor is operated at the normal temp for lets say15 min or more and then switched off it will barely turn over then acts as if the battery died. once engine has cooled to cold again it turns freely starts right up. Im thinking bad starter ? battery is good . this truck belonged to my father who died two years ago. it been sitting ever since.I have already dealt with fuel tank and frozen brakes , roted hoses, you know the eazy stuff. thanks for any help.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
It could be a dirty or corroded connection somewhere in the wiring to the starter or in the ground path. Could be a bad solenoid or a tired starter motor.
Also, there is a wire going to the ignition module that gets 12V when cranking - this retards the timing making it easier for the starter to turn over a hot engine. I don't have the wiring diagram here, but I can check the wire color later if someone else does not chime in with it. If that line is not getting 12V it will make it harder for the starter to turn over the hot engine.
Also, there is a wire going to the ignition module that gets 12V when cranking - this retards the timing making it easier for the starter to turn over a hot engine. I don't have the wiring diagram here, but I can check the wire color later if someone else does not chime in with it. If that line is not getting 12V it will make it harder for the starter to turn over the hot engine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
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From: Acworth, GA
I always start with these tests, and go from there.
Obviously, these tests are for a no start or no charge situation, but I always like to start with them just to eliminate the obvious.
But, if you have already eliminated the possibility of it being the battery, then you are one step further.
Obviously, these tests are for a no start or no charge situation, but I always like to start with them just to eliminate the obvious.
But, if you have already eliminated the possibility of it being the battery, then you are one step further.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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um fond weird sticky rizen like goo comeing out of ignition mod think that might be problem? cant be wright. you think nappa store carrys replacement?the one iremoved say motorcraft on it Im guessing its original.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Yes, the ignition module could cause this problem. If the resin on the bottom is sticky from getting hot, have the module tested. Most likely replace.
Ford still sells these brand new, and they are, by far, the best out there. But they are expencive.
They are also sold aftermarket, but stay away from the absolute cheapest ones if you go that route. The cheaper ones are not built very well.
Most autopart stores can test an ignition module.
I would also check and test the starter and the grounds to the starter. They can preform tests on the starter in most auto part stores as well if you take it into them.
Ford still sells these brand new, and they are, by far, the best out there. But they are expencive.
They are also sold aftermarket, but stay away from the absolute cheapest ones if you go that route. The cheaper ones are not built very well.
Most autopart stores can test an ignition module.
I would also check and test the starter and the grounds to the starter. They can preform tests on the starter in most auto part stores as well if you take it into them.
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Senior User
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I replaced mine when I got my truck, about 15 at oreillies, old one was still working and is stashed away in the truck 
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Motorcraft modules tend to let you start your truck with just a quick turn of a key.
"vrooommm..."
Aftermarket modules tend to make you crank longer before they start.
This is from personal experience.
Having an extra known working one under the seat, is very good insurance!
"vrooommm..."
Aftermarket modules tend to make you crank longer before they start.
This is from personal experience.
Having an extra known working one under the seat, is very good insurance!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 22
From: Florence, SC
Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
Motorcraft modules tend to let you start your truck with just a quick turn of a key.
"vrooommm..."
Aftermarket modules tend to make you crank longer before they start.
This is from personal experience.
"vrooommm..."
Aftermarket modules tend to make you crank longer before they start.
This is from personal experience.
A genuine Motorcraft module is far superior to the cheaper aftermarket modules. I have had them both, and the aftermarket module I had I don't even think had the "start retard" feature the Motorcraft module did. Of course, it died after only a year. I picked up an OEM Motorcraft module from the junkyard about 3 years ago, and the box itself was larger than the aftermarket module.
In fact, with a Motorcraft ignition module - I kid you not - my carbureted 1985 F150 actually starts up quicker than my 1998 Jeep Wrangler and my wife's 2001 Ford Mustang!
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Is this the silver box on the passenger side inner fender? I have off next week, and one of my projects is to get the truck started again. I'm going to pull the starter and have it tested, but may as well have the module tested too to avoid multiple trips.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
They are located on the drivers side inner fender. Left hand drive.
Silver in color, with either a Blue (DS-II) or Yellow (DS-III) wire grommet. Fits 1980-1983 normally, but can be retrofitted into 1984 and newer.
The silver box on the passenger side is most likely the Voltage Regulator.
Silver in color, with either a Blue (DS-II) or Yellow (DS-III) wire grommet. Fits 1980-1983 normally, but can be retrofitted into 1984 and newer.
The silver box on the passenger side is most likely the Voltage Regulator.
