Mounting a 302
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Washington State
Mounting a 302
I recently purchased a tube type mount to install my 289 into my '63 F100. It came w/o any directions or help, but I know someone out there will know and help. First, is there a front and back to this mount? The welded on mounts on the tube that will hook up to the motor mounts seem a little off center which I am hoping is to acommodate the angle of the engine as it heads toward the transmition. Second, the main tube that spans from frame rail to frame rail fits into another tube that is bolted or welded to the frame. However, there is still slop that allows the tube and engine to move from side to side. Is it the intent to have this welded once the engine appears to be centered? Seems like a very tough weld to encircle the entire tube with the engine in place. A friend suggested that the tube could be pinned, but I am afraid it will really weaken the bracket. Anybody out there done this and have suggestions as how they may have mounted theirs? Thanks for your help.
Jim
Jim
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Mounting a 302
Originally posted by Jim Larson
I recently purchased a tube type mount to install my 289 into my '63 F100. It came w/o any directions or help, but I know someone out there will know and help.
Welcome to the world of "I sell it but don't ask me how to use it" I hate when this happens.
First, is there a front and back to this mount? The welded on mounts on the tube that will hook up to the motor mounts seem a little off center which I am hoping is to acommodate the angle of the engine as it heads toward the transmition.
Yes, the short side mounts on the passenger side. This allows the engine/trans to line up with the pinion gear of the rear end. You need to mock up the trans mount (or use a jack to be able to move it around) and hang the engine from a hoist while determining the best position for the crossmember. Slide the end caps onto the crossmember then bolt it all to the engine, now align everything as you want it.
Second, the main tube that spans from frame rail to frame rail fits into another tube that is bolted or welded to the frame. However, there is still slop that allows the tube and engine to move from side to side. Is it the intent to have this welded once the engine appears to be centered? Seems like a very tough weld to encircle the entire tube with the engine in place.
Once you have determined the position of the engine in the bay, mark your frame thru the holes in the end caps. Drill these holes in the frame and bolt the pads down. Now re-adjust the crossmember, make sure everything is as you want it, and tack the crossmenber to the mounting pads attached to the frame. Remove the engine, then pull out the crossmember and bench weld. Reinstall the crossmember and insert new engine in place.
A friend suggested that the tube could be pinned, but I am afraid it will really weaken the bracket. Anybody out there done this and have suggestions as how they may have mounted theirs? Thanks for your help.
Jim
Yes, you are right. This is designed to be welded and pinning would be a real shadetree mistake. I personally have not installed one but helped a friend with his. I would suggest boxing the frame before installint the crossmember but you don't have to. Have fun and don't be afraid to ask any more questions.
I recently purchased a tube type mount to install my 289 into my '63 F100. It came w/o any directions or help, but I know someone out there will know and help.
Welcome to the world of "I sell it but don't ask me how to use it" I hate when this happens.
First, is there a front and back to this mount? The welded on mounts on the tube that will hook up to the motor mounts seem a little off center which I am hoping is to acommodate the angle of the engine as it heads toward the transmition.
Yes, the short side mounts on the passenger side. This allows the engine/trans to line up with the pinion gear of the rear end. You need to mock up the trans mount (or use a jack to be able to move it around) and hang the engine from a hoist while determining the best position for the crossmember. Slide the end caps onto the crossmember then bolt it all to the engine, now align everything as you want it.
Second, the main tube that spans from frame rail to frame rail fits into another tube that is bolted or welded to the frame. However, there is still slop that allows the tube and engine to move from side to side. Is it the intent to have this welded once the engine appears to be centered? Seems like a very tough weld to encircle the entire tube with the engine in place.
Once you have determined the position of the engine in the bay, mark your frame thru the holes in the end caps. Drill these holes in the frame and bolt the pads down. Now re-adjust the crossmember, make sure everything is as you want it, and tack the crossmenber to the mounting pads attached to the frame. Remove the engine, then pull out the crossmember and bench weld. Reinstall the crossmember and insert new engine in place.
A friend suggested that the tube could be pinned, but I am afraid it will really weaken the bracket. Anybody out there done this and have suggestions as how they may have mounted theirs? Thanks for your help.
Jim
Yes, you are right. This is designed to be welded and pinning would be a real shadetree mistake. I personally have not installed one but helped a friend with his. I would suggest boxing the frame before installint the crossmember but you don't have to. Have fun and don't be afraid to ask any more questions.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 266
Likes: 1
From: Suwanee, GA
Mounting a 302
I'm putting one like that in a '53 and it has the same issues. I'm using a 351w out of a '78 lincoln so I had to replace the motor mount pads. If your kit came with pads you should be ok, but if not, pads out of a 70 mustang work just fine (they center the engine correctly and fit the mount)
The reason the tube is "tilted" off center is for clearance with the oil pan, not the engine angle. If you have a front sump pan, tilt the mount back; rear sump, tilt the mount forward. To correctly set the angle you will need a magnetic angle guage. Here are a couple good links for setting the angle:
Guide:
http://www.iedls.com/ptsetup.html
Theory:
http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tec...driveline.html
The mount is intended to be welded after the engine is set into place. Since the one I bought has some play between the end of the tube and the bracket, I'm planning on shimming it with a peice of 16 guage steel wrapped around the mount (fills the gap almost perfectly)
After setting the angle and getting the mount where you want it, spot weld the bracket into place and then take it out to weld it al the way around. (or take it to a welding shop if you don't feel comfortable doing that)
Tyson
The reason the tube is "tilted" off center is for clearance with the oil pan, not the engine angle. If you have a front sump pan, tilt the mount back; rear sump, tilt the mount forward. To correctly set the angle you will need a magnetic angle guage. Here are a couple good links for setting the angle:
Guide:
http://www.iedls.com/ptsetup.html
Theory:
http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tec...driveline.html
The mount is intended to be welded after the engine is set into place. Since the one I bought has some play between the end of the tube and the bracket, I'm planning on shimming it with a peice of 16 guage steel wrapped around the mount (fills the gap almost perfectly)
After setting the angle and getting the mount where you want it, spot weld the bracket into place and then take it out to weld it al the way around. (or take it to a welding shop if you don't feel comfortable doing that)
Tyson
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Washington State
Mounting a 302
Thanks to you both with some really good info. I wanted to thank you earlier, but have had trouble connecting (computer wise) with the reply section of this thread. I do have some additional clarifying needs. As far as the shimming is concerned, did you use strips of 16 guage to fill the loose fit, or did you actually create a small "tube" as filler? Second, unless I am missing something, it seems to me that you cannot bench weld the mount or you will not be able to get it between the frame rails. On mine, I need the "slop" to be able to get the mount between the frame rails in order to bolt it in. But the slop still exists, and I am concerned about this as my welding skills are not that good and I would have to find someone to weld the "tube" crossmember part to the "tube" mount that bolts to the inside of the frame rail. Am I seeing this correctly? Thanks again for your help and advice, this group has been very helpful.
Jim
Jim
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 266
Likes: 1
From: Suwanee, GA
Mounting a 302
For shimming, I would suggest the "tube" method. If there isn't that much room, using peices would probably be just as well.
As for bench welding, you may be right on the need for space. We haven't welded it in place yet, just have the engine/tranny sitting on the mount. So, there may not be an option of taking it out. If you have a trailer you could take the frame down to a welding shop, or if not, time to practice
Tyson
As for bench welding, you may be right on the need for space. We haven't welded it in place yet, just have the engine/tranny sitting on the mount. So, there may not be an option of taking it out. If you have a trailer you could take the frame down to a welding shop, or if not, time to practice
Tyson
