P0344 - CPS Intermittent
On the way back out, code threw again. This is where it gets weird. It did it right when I let off the gas completely (wife forgot something) then depressed gas again (wife decided it wasn't important). The code was immediate and truck went into the lurch mode. I turned around, turned the motor off, waited a few seconds and restarted. Check Engine light was off and truck ran fine back home.
Got home, pulled CPS and inspected for any damage or shavings. NONE. Put CPS back in and drove around, did the same thing (on purpose), letting off gas and then depressing it again. Threw Code P0344. I reset and drove around with normal acceleration. Truck is fine.
1) WTF??
2) Does the computer have to "learn" the new sensor, if so, how long? I drove it about 80-90 miles with no issues.
3) Can the aftermarket chip create strange issues and codes? I have heard such rumors but never officially. My chip is the 4-Bank Bully Dog. I never use the higher stages, only keep it one step above stock.
So I got back on the Net, downloaded instructions to test for the Intermittent.
A. checked resistance on Pin A of the sensor plug. Less than 5ohms. Reading was 1.8 Good, right?
B. Next step: Checked Pin B for voltage (key on) Reading was 4.98v. Good, right?
C. Next step: Checked Pin C for B+ (12v??). Reading was about 1.2. Good, not running 12v through it.
D. Next step:
Where is my PCM? I need to check that next.
Since it's intermittent it's going to be harder to find. I would wiggle the engine harness wires when running and see if you can get your truck to act up. The pcm is down by the parking brake and the connection goes through the firewall.
Sorry, back on topic. Is the CPS from Ford or IH? If not, step one is get a Ford CPS in there. Removing the chip for testing is a good idea. Probably not related, but always good to rule it out early. I'm assuming pin B is looking for Vref, in which case almost 6 sounds a little high. 1.2 for battery voltage is bad, unless you have dead batteries

I can't see the truck running fine with a battery voltage reading of only 1.2. Is the meter auto arranging and maybe just having a bad day? Stick the meter on your battery and see what that reading is. Then compare the voltage reading from the battery to your pin C reading.
Did you wiggle the wires while testing? That's the best way to check for intermittent shorts. Does the plug for the CPS have the little rubber gasket in it still? I've read where one fell out and caused intermittent issues. Lastly, can you duplicate the code issue by holding 2,000 rpm's in neutral, let off, then resume rpm's again? We do have fly by wire controls for the pedal, so there's a chance some voltage spike or issue is happening with the pedal causing interference.
.
were all set now back to our regularly scheduled programming...........

Trending Topics
Sorry, back on topic. Is the CPS from Ford or IH? If not, step one is get a Ford CPS in there. Removing the chip for testing is a good idea. Probably not related, but always good to rule it out early. I'm assuming pin B is looking for Vref, in which case almost 6 sounds a little high. 1.2 for battery voltage is bad, unless you have dead batteries

I can't see the truck running fine with a battery voltage reading of only 1.2. Is the meter auto arranging and maybe just having a bad day? Stick the meter on your battery and see what that reading is. Then compare the voltage reading from the battery to your pin C reading.
Did you wiggle the wires while testing? That's the best way to check for intermittent shorts. Does the plug for the CPS have the little rubber gasket in it still? I've read where one fell out and caused intermittent issues. Lastly, can you duplicate the code issue by holding 2,000 rpm's in neutral, let off, then resume rpm's again? We do have fly by wire controls for the pedal, so there's a chance some voltage spike or issue is happening with the pedal causing interference.
First off, 5.98 was a typo. I meant 4.98 and the instructions that I was following asked for 5 +- .5
Second, the instructions asked if B+ (12v) was present. According to that set, running 12v through Pin C is bad and that I was to try and find the problem then.
As for the pic, I copied a pic from the website I was using to guide me in these checks. I had no idea that they would go whacky. Sorry.
I can't recreate the code in the driveway, only under a driving load. The little blue oring is still there. I have another Ford grey in there. The parts store warrantied it for me and gave me a Carquest CPS to boot.
How does one check the pedal? That is now the second time I have heard that the pedal can screw things up, makes sense too.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Second, the instructions asked if B+ (12v) was present. According to that set, running 12v through Pin C is bad and that I was to try and find the problem then.
I can't recreate the code in the driveway, only under a driving load. The little blue oring is still there. I have another Ford grey in there. The parts store warrantied it for me and gave me a Carquest CPS to boot.
How does one check the pedal? That is now the second time I have heard that the pedal can screw things up, makes sense too.
Pinpoint tests on the CPS wiring seems odd reading through it. Are you checking pin C voltage with key on or off?
Not sure what to make about your current CPS comment. Seems you are currently running a gray CPS you got from Ford, but also have a spare Carquest CPS? Keep in mind color is not as important as where the CPS came from.
Before we move onto any possible pedal issues, you need to repeat the CPS wire test while shaking the wiring harness at different points between the CPS and PCM.
ECSD - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ
Second, the instructions asked if B+ (12v) was present. According to that set, running 12v through Pin C is bad and that I was to try and find the problem then.
As for the pic, I copied a pic from the website I was using to guide me in these checks. I had no idea that they would go whacky. Sorry.
I can't recreate the code in the driveway, only under a driving load. The little blue oring is still there. I have another Ford grey in there. The parts store warrantied it for me and gave me a Carquest CPS to boot.
How does one check the pedal? That is now the second time I have heard that the pedal can screw things up, makes sense too.



