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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 05:31 AM
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JWA
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5.4 Engine Swap Head Question

Have an '00 E250 with the gas 5.4 motor that's tired (240K) and soon to be replaced. Waiting on a stand is a '98 5.4 with only 89K miles that I've had in storage for a while.

My question is are the '98 heads more prone than the later model '00 for spitting plugs? I'd hate to drop this engine in only to find it's prone to this condition more than other years. FWIW I'm aware of the best practices for changing plugs in these beasts.

Thanks for any real experiences or thoughts!


J W
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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They are the same as far as plug threads go. The question is, is the 2000 engine a PI engine? The head ports are different and the intakes will not interchange. I know the 98 is a non-PI headed engine.
As long as you use anti-seize and properly torque the plugs, you shouldn't have a problem. The biggest cause of spitting plugs is that they get loose and blow out causing thread damage or they get over tightened an pull the threads out. Both years use about 4 threads in the head. Mid 2003 they finally added more threads.
You could always install a timesert kit before you install the engine.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LxMan1
They are the same as far as plug threads go. The question is, is the 2000 engine a PI engine? The head ports are different and the intakes will not interchange. I know the 98 is a non-PI headed engine.
As long as you use anti-seize and properly torque the plugs, you shouldn't have a problem. The biggest cause of spitting plugs is that they get loose and blow out causing thread damage or they get over tightened an pull the threads out. Both years use about 4 threads in the head. Mid 2003 they finally added more threads.
You could always install a timesert kit before you install the engine.

The existing 5.4 motor is stock to the vehicle so certainly not the PI version. Apart from the intake and other year specific items I'd essentially be swapping out just the assembled block and heads. Plug wise I'm careful with the anti-seize and torque---I've been sufficiently "scared" into what can go wrong--even bought a dedicated Wright brand torque wrench just for this.

I've also considered removing the heads and having steel inserts placed by an auto machine shop---would be terrifically easy with the engine sitting on the stand. I'll also be adding a pre-oiler in order to cut down the dry cranking before the oil pump begins working.

Thanks for the advice!
 
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