I actually have had both intakes. But I did never install the Performer. I got a good deal on a Performer 460 intake that was never installed. The reason I did not use it, is because the ports were actually smaller than the ports on my stock cast iron 4 barrel intake! I would personally run the stock cast iron intake before the Performer 460.
I currently run the RPM air gap on my 1977 F-150 and I love it. I highly recommend it. And as far as the cold weather thing. I've had it out many times with temps around 0*F and never had a problem at all, plus I don't even run a choke! It might be a little cold blooded for about 2 minutes but then after that it runs just as good as anything else.

And I have another story about a performer intake even though its for a 302. I have a 1985 Mustang GT that was bone stock when I bought it. For those who dont know it comes stock with a Ford aluminum 4 barrel intake and emmission 585 cfm Holley 4 barrel. I took it to the track for a baseline run. Then I swapped on 1.7 roller rockers and went back. Then I swapped on an off-road H-pipe and went back to the track. Then I swapped on underdrive pulleys and went back. For each of those mods I saw significant drop in 1/4 mile times. Then I swapped on a Peformer 289 intake and saw no change in performance over the stock intake! I put the stock intake back on. I have friends with small block chevy performer experience as well with similar results as me. Personally, other than the Performer 5.0 EFI intake I'd stay away from any perfomer intake and even then I'd rather get the Performer RPM EFI. I've ran both of those EFI intakes on several cars.
And has anyone ever looked at the ports on a Performer 400 intake? I've ran one of those as well. The ports are like half the size of the ports in the head and much smaller than a stock intake as well.

 

The Edelbrock Performer intake manifold is really more of a replacement manifold than anything else. The stock cast-iron manifold from Ford is designed to operate from idle to about 5,000 RPMs, and that is exactly what the "Performer" is advertised to do. Since the 460 already should come with a 4V carburetor, I personally wouldn't change out the stock intake manifold out at all, unless it is damaged. The "Performer" is marketed to operate like a stock unit, but with the added benefit of weight savings of a lighter aluminum unit.

The "Performer" intake for a 302 is more for people who want to change out their stock 2V carburetor for a 4V carburetor, and need a 4V intake manifold. I don't think it is intended as an "upgrade" over an OEM 4V intake at all, and I certainly wouldn't change out a stock Ford aluminum 4V intake for an Edlebrock Performer intake. Unless, of course I wanted to get rid of the EGR.

Carburetors absolutely need a choke. I don't believe for a minute that you have had your truck out at zero degrees without a choke and "never had a problem at all." Why do think all automotive carburetors came with chokes? "Two minutes" is not *nearly* long enough for an engine to be up to operating temperature, ESPECIALLY at freezing temperatures. So to say that "it runs as good as anything else" without an operating choke is simply not true.

 

some more info needed on your engine combo will help everyone and intended use.there is nothing wrong with a performer intake,its about the combo,many respected builders will tell you the same.if your engine is stock or a mild build with a cam around 218@.050 or less and no or little head work the performer would be better suited as the engine will quit making power before the intakes limits.

 

I was in your position less than a year ago and ended up taking a leap for the air gap rpm. I am running it under the hood of a 76 with a 429 mill with a moderate build. This manifold has worked perfectly for my build but not everyone would run a 429 as well. I ran the straight RPM on another truck that seemed to work real well too. You will loose a little off the bottom as compared to a stock manifold, but with a BB I feel that you can aford to loose a little, you will notice it on the top end. With my particular combination it really starts to pull around 1600 r's. Just depends how you use your rig. I have had mine out in -20f temps and not had any freezing issues, for what it is worth. The Key is MATCH COMPONENTS!!!

 

Good to hear from someone having run in the negative numbers... winter temps like 0 to -30 and down were the temps we were told it wouldn't like, and since thats average for our winter... yeah.

I'll pass that info on, and keep it in mind when I get around to manifold picking for my 460 re-build.

G.

 

I'm glad some others know what there talking about. There is one more point that your forgetting lariat, and that is the dual plane vs. single plane. I think your getting the air gap, confused with victor jr. By keeping the design a dual plane manifold, they are able to keep most of the low end power, and still create good upper rpm power. Now I know some use this on a street strip motor, but thats cause its really one of the best mid performance intakes ever designed. By the questioners picture, it looks like the truck is a 2wd, pleasure and daily driver. If I had had one, I would definately do the air gap, cause you would have town driveability, with the ability to keep up with the rice rocket in the next lane when he's shifting at 6500rpms. Did you read the article above. Even with just a performer rpm cam the power increase was amazing. Get a set of DOVE heads, and do a mild port job on them, and you could almost replicate the power numbers I bet.

 

"Most" of the low end power is not all of it, is it? As I said before, you will sacrifice *some* low end power at the expense of good upper rpm power. An RV-style cam typically makes power right off idle, and the other intake choices loses *some* low end and puts it back on the top, right when an RV cam is running out of breath. That is called mis-matching components.

If looks, racing cute little rice rockets, and more top end power that is what a driver is after, then by all means, the RPM and Air Gap are sold for a reason. However, most people do not get their trucks up in the 5,000 RPM range all that often, if it all. And if you are hardly going to be in that range, why sacrifice *some* low end for a range you will never even get into?

Will it work? Sure. But as jfive said, you will retain "most" of the low end power even though you will still "lose" *some* of it in favor of top end power.

The choice is yours.

 

sounds to me like "mismatching" in that case would be what a lot of guys aspire to; best of both worlds.

Honestly, All of this has re-confirmed something I had gathered before... an intake is an intake, as long as your running a 4 barrel, it doesn't matter much on a street engine. Thats the feeling I get anyway.

G.

 

in the article carcraft did, there was no loss at the lower rpm for the performer rpm intake, only gains in the upper rpms. ive seen a few comparisons on intakes, and they basically agreed, the performer is a stock replacement, only lighter since its aluminum. i took the advertised range for the performer rpm as where the intake really starts to pull. ill do some digging and see if i can find the article. it was very thorough with dyno numbers.

 

Well I don't know that to tell ya. I put the truck together and I drive it and thats how it performs.
I also daily drove my 1985 Mustang GT that I mentioned earlier from 1999 until 2002 and I did not run a choke on that either. Ran great in all temps. It doesn't bother me that someone on the internet doesn't believe me. I have the cars and I know how they run. If not running a choke in zero degree weather was a problem for me then I'd add one. I actually have the choke on each carb but I have the spring adjusted wide open and tightened down so the choke plate cannot move on either. So it would be real easy for me to get the choke operational if I felt I needed one.