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Just wondering....
I've never driven my truck... but when we drug it up the driveway and pushed it down into the barn, my son said the steering wheel had a LOT of play.
What would most likely be the cause?
Tie rod ends?
or
the steering box?
How hard is it to pull the steering box apart. I've looked over the shop manual and it makes me nervous....
It could be all of the above, and more. There's lots of moving parts that make up the steering linkage. If all of those parts have a little bit of wear, it all adds up together to be a lot of slop. You'll just have to inspect it and do an assessment of condition throughout. A lot of stress is placed on those little gears in the steering box and they are commonly found used up pretty good after 50 years.
So, while we're "kind of" on the subject, do you know if you can just pop the end plate off a stock box, to see what condition it's in? I don't see any reason why you couldn't, as long as you don't turn the wheel. I need to replace the gasket, too.
Personally, I've never had one apart. But if it's full of grease like it's supposed to be, I'm not sure how much you can see inside without disassembly.
Personally, I've never had one apart. But if it's full of grease like it's supposed to be, I'm not sure how much you can see inside without disassembly.
The steering box should have heavy gear oil rather than grease. But, so many people and mechanics filled them with grease because they couldn't figure out how to sop them fom leaking. The grease usually ends up wrapped around the shafts rather than lubing the surfaces were it is needed most.
They are easy to take apart, and you will see lots of grease but not in the right places. Just take some grease cutter or gas on a rag and clean it all out. Diesel works good too. When it's clean you will see how relatively simple they are.
I recently filled my steering box with Genuine Ford Steering gear Lubricant,I believe it's called now "X19".It is correct for my 59, and other years,my Napa parts guy gave me a leftover tube he had from when he owned an old Fairlane.NumberDummy gave me the info,plus I did a search and found that thread, AFTER I had filled - and then lost - a good amount of 90 wt.on my driveway.The steering improved ,the box doesn't leak.
This site does explain the proper lubricant,it's a good one:
I recently filled my steering box with Genuine Ford Steering gear Lubricant,I believe it's called now "X19".It is correct for my 59, and other years,my Napa parts guy gave me a leftover tube he had from when he owned an old Fairlane.NumberDummy gave me the info,plus I did a search and found that thread, AFTER I had filled - and then lost - a good amount of 90 wt.on my driveway.The steering improved ,the box doesn't leak.
This site does explain the proper lubricant,it's a good one:
Thanks, this is great info, I was always lead to believe otherwise. I appreciate the corrrection. As an after thought I wonder why "use heavy gear oil" is stamped into the vent cap on the steering box?
Last edited by Mervy49; Oct 16, 2010 at 11:36 PM.
Reason: asking question
I wonder why "use heavy gear oil" is stamped into the vent cap on the steering box?
Well, yours is, I guess, a 49,mine's a 59.They may have changed specs somewhere in between.All the info I found said to use a chassis molybdenum ("moly") grease,but NOT a wheel bearing type grease.
I recently filled my steering box with Genuine Ford Steering gear Lubricant,I believe it's called now "X19".It is correct for my 59, and other years,my Napa parts guy gave me a leftover tube he had from when he owned an old Fairlane.NumberDummy gave me the info,plus I did a search and found that thread, AFTER I had filled - and then lost - a good amount of 90 wt.on my driveway.The steering improved ,the box doesn't leak.
This site does explain the proper lubricant,it's a good one:
Those steering boxes on that site have the sector shaft vertical; different design than 48-52 for sure, don't know for a fact about 53-56. Could very well be that those use grease.
The "bright side" to my box leaking is that it drips right onto the front spring, I never have to spray that one down!
ND's info was right from ford and the grease has a ford part#, so I'd believe him first.
To discover where the slop is is an easy task. Put two large c clamps on the frame on either side of the drag link to lock it in place. Turn the steering wheel back and forth to check play in the box. More than 1" of freeplay at the rim of the wheel the box needs attention, either adjustment or rebuild. Now put a jack under the center of the axle and jack the front wheels off the ground. Grab a wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and try to turn them as in steering. If you can move them more than a tiny amount, have someone watch while you do it and see where/what is moving. Finally put a large prybar or pipe under each wheel and grab at the top of the wheel. Lift up and down on the bar while pushing in and out on the wheel. If it moves in and out or up and down you have worn kingpins (or possibly worn or loose wheel bearings).
Now remove the C clamps and fix whatever is worn.
ND's info was right from ford and the grease has a ford part#, so I'd believe him first.
...
I did an Advanced Search and couldn't find any of ND's posts where he said anything about what goes inside. Plenty of them about gaskets and bearings. If you know the post, please link it.
Edit: Here it is. We'll have to discuss when he gets back from vacation. The FSM, all the lube charts, everything calls for 90 wt.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.