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Better towing ideas

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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #1  
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Better towing ideas

Im going to the bookcliffs next weekend with some buddies on horses and was wonderin what all i could do to my truck to make the trip easier? We will only be on the highway for a little while around an hour and remember this aint kansas flat ground either, other than that it will be dirt roads for a couple more hours. My boss that's going in his new dodge megacab w/cummins & 6spd will be hauling 3 horses and i will be hauling 4 with mine, 84 6.9 4spd not exactly stock, im not expecting any night and day differences just the little things that can help, thanks fellers
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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Well you wont keep up with the new dodge, so get that out of the head now. Aside from ensuring the levels of fluids are all good, i dont really know what you want to do. Maybe a lubricity additive to the fuel if you dont already....? Mechanically, unless you are turboing in the nxt few days, i am not sure what can be done. You will get to the finish line but you wont win any races to it. haha.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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Na he's following me on the way down anyways he don't know where were goin, i told him we ain't going to be breakin any land speed records plus he drives like he's scared of scratchin the truck all the freakin time, i got no problem with bein careful but he rarely breaks 60-65. Im thinkin about building a bigger intake behind the grill, would that help enough to be worthwhile?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 01:50 PM
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Just to the left of the drivers side headlight there is a support bracket for the radiator that you can trim out and fit with a duct of sorts, some do better jobs than others, mine is all heat pressed fittings with 4"abs plastic and a scoop intake that is formed like a J. As the air hits it, it curves up and then a straight shot to the intake. I cut the tabs off the air cleaner assy that keep it from moving left to right and moved it in a more straight path. Essentially i made it more direct and larger with a smooth interior. Removed the plate in the intake box, used to have the soup bowl removed but put it back after i found more oil in the intake than i wanted. But thats for another story altogether haha. Anything to get more cold air in the mouth of the beast, the better! below is a pic but its black now.....

Intake
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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Just a thought but could i route the hose down about the same place as yours to right under the grille? I have a 4" susp lift and a 3" body lift so im thinkin that with the gap under the grille i could make one hell of a scoop across the front, it has two electric fans so there is ample room between the radiator and the block. I also have a smittybuilt style grille guard on the front so i would have to put some kind of mesh or something on it so the beast don't swallow to much crap, i am in the mountains a lot and i pretty much always have a horse trailer on so i try to avoid mud anyways, so yeah do ya think this is an option or would i be better off goin another way with it?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wreckinball
I cut the tabs off the air Removed the plate in the intake box, used to have the soup bowl removed but put it back after i found more oil in the intake than i wanted. But thats for another story altogether haha. Anything to get more cold air in the mouth of the beast, the better! below is a pic but its black now.....
Really? Because I have a soup bowl mod and there is oil around my intake manifold. Should there be any at all around the intake??
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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Horsin, i didnt see the lift stats, yeah you could build an air dam that would act like a turbo at high speeds hahaha! Definitely go that way if i had a body lift!

Snapon,
We went over it in the thread, soupbowl mod revisited, and i came to the determination that with the mod it wasnt pulling hard enough to close the CDR valve, and sure enough when i reinstalled a soupbowl(new lid from jy) the residue down in the intake manifold, smell from the exhaust, and oil consumption all went down and got better. The remaining oil in the intake is coming/was coming from the intake valley pan gasket that i am replacing. For some, nothing changed but i have a newer CDR, and same setup overall and mine would inhale oil like a hoover. Dont know the reason but i put the soupbowl back on. When i get the truck back together, i will put the old lid back on to determine if the intake valley pan gasket leaking was the major issue. My plan is to go to a hotrod plenum and rid that whole setup altogether. any 5 1/8" plenum will fit and it then will just need an upgraded bolt on setup. In the works! haha.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Ok, thanks. I plan on building a cold air intake soon anyway....
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 01:47 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by wreckinball
Horsin, i didnt see the lift stats, yeah you could build an air dam that would act like a turbo at high speeds hahaha! Definitely go that way if i had a body lift!

Snapon,
We went over it in the thread, soupbowl mod revisited, and i came to the determination that with the mod it wasnt pulling hard enough to close the CDR valve, and sure enough when i reinstalled a soupbowl(new lid from jy) the residue down in the intake manifold, smell from the exhaust, and oil consumption all went down and got better. The remaining oil in the intake is coming/was coming from the intake valley pan gasket that i am replacing. For some, nothing changed but i have a newer CDR, and same setup overall and mine would inhale oil like a hoover. Dont know the reason but i put the soupbowl back on. When i get the truck back together, i will put the old lid back on to determine if the intake valley pan gasket leaking was the major issue. My plan is to go to a hotrod plenum and rid that whole setup altogether. any 5 1/8" plenum will fit and it then will just need an upgraded bolt on setup. In the works! haha.
The valve NEVER closes in normal operation.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 08:04 AM
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I have the intake hose mod as well, but used 4" exhaust pipe. I welded washers on the end of it for mounting to the bolts that hold the bracket on, and cut the rad brace to let air through it. I also added a bit of screen out in front of the hole to try to cut down on the amount of bugs and crap getting into the air cleaner. I used to have some pics, but can't seem to find them right now...

Here's some:


 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 08:39 AM
  #11  
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i would like to build a intake like wrecks i have A/C though and i want the solid non ribbed pipe.... seems like could be a big PITA
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 08:55 AM
  #12  
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all you would need is another 22.5 elbow. just route it around the ac. Make some brackets to hold it close and use whatever you have to keep it from wearing on things like rubber hose and similar. I found that when i did my mod that the air box would slide over every now and then and rub on the front injector line, rubbed all the paint off and made me nervous haha. So i ziptied a section of fuel hose onto the injector line and it almost looks like it is supposed to be that way haha. Use your imagination and just remember, any amount of colder air you can get into the engine is better than none, a few mild bends are no big deal. With the ABS, if you press it all the way together, it is nearly flawless internally.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by fonefiddy
The valve NEVER closes in normal operation.
You misunderstand what i mean, When under heavy throttle, it should seal off to prevent oil from being drawn into the intake. If its idling or youre just putting around, yeah it will be open. When you get on it or you are blasting up a hill, it will close. If it didnt, then why would you need the damn thing in the first place. You could just run a piece of hose and call it good. When my intake cleared up, the smell of oil went away, and my oil consumption went down, i knew i nailed the problem down. Im not telling anyone to do what i do, your truck is your truck and ill never mess with another mans rig.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:04 AM
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The CDR does not close while under heavy throttle. The ONLY reason it there is to prevent run away, IF the engine starts sucking oil thru it.
 
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