this weekend while hunting my truck slid down an embankment and into a river...

after a futile attempt to back out i was in it deep. 40 minutes later im out but with serious after effects ...
**note the water line**


straight to the point...

1. i have error codes p0113 and another saying something about fan speed ... forgot the code.

2. truck has a top end tick... not sure if its pre-ignition (due to moisture in the cylinder) or an actual knock.

3. truck has a rough idle like its missing but while running seems flawless.

4. water came into the cab and my carpet is soaked. been drying it out as much as possible but its screwed... would it be worth it to put in a vinyl floor?

5. fog lights are full of muddy water. is there any way to get it out and reseal them to keep moisture from getting in.

6. i have rocks and sand out the wazoo in my factory finder flares. i need to get that out. i couldn't remove them. im not going to force them so what am i missing?

7. for anybody whos been in a situation like this before wither you where mudding or where in a flood, are there anything i should do to the truck to make sure im not making anything worse.

i know the truck sucked water into the motor. it was all in my stock intake and my filter was soaked. luckly when i pulled the intake all the way there was little to no water in the upper part of the intake. so it was water vapor and not solid water in the motor. when it stalled and i was forced to restart it to help with getting my truck out it didnt stuggle but thats when the tick started.





my poor truck will she ****ting sand for the rest of its life... ugh!

 

Oh god, NO!

1. P0113 is a MAF sensor short. Water got that far at least.

2. Probably shorted out a COP or two. Look for posts where users have washed their engine with a garden hose (the predominant reason for a users first visit to this site)

3. See #2. They'll probably need some time to dry out. If you're lucky they only need time to dry and aren't totally shorted out.

4. If this is a normal weekend activity, then yes, vinyl flooring or a Jeep would be a good way to go.

5. Yes, you can remove them and wash them out. They are held in with a screw and some plastic clips on either side of the housing. Wash 'em out and silicone the hell out of them.

6. Sorry, I'm no help here. I'll check the service manual and get back to you (unless another member posts first).

7. Don't run it anymore until you dry everything out...thoroughly. Remove every piece of interior trim, get up in there and see whats got mud and what doesn't. Clean everything off and make sure it's dry.

Normally, if the water caused it to stall, you're screwed and the damage has been done. The normal protocol once this happens is to NOT RESTART THE ENGINE and immediatly put as much oil into
the engine as it will hold to prevent the water that did get into the engine from causing anymore damage. Then, as soon as you can change the oil. Sounds like you got lucky.

Also, run to the store, or better yet Academy, if you have one and buy a few bags of desicant and throw them in there (they stock them near the big gun safes). It will help get the moister out of the rig.

 

Having fun are we? Fresh water before it dries, pull what you can of the interior and flood it with fresh water. Clean as much of the truck and start changing fluids......fresh air filter

 

Here's the best I can do for the fender flares. Also, forgot to mention, blow out the top of the engine with compressed air if you can. Water will pool around the COPs and wreak havoc.

 

Rinse all of the electronics that got wet with lots of alcohol. AFTER YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Get a couple of cans of electrical contact cleaner and use it liberally.
RV stores carry desiccant in large cans.

BTW resizing your photos will help us view this thread without having to scroll across the page.

 

time to file a claim. take pictures before you do anything else. lots of pictures of any possible damage. just in case.

 

thanks for the info guys!

bridge- great info! thanks a bunch.

like i stated before i DIDNT want to start the truck but had to. the water was winning and fast and it was the only way to get out

the oil has literally 300 miles on it... and its super clean no water at all... im hesitant to pay another 60 bucks...

im sorry about the pictures being a bit big. my bad.

 

With the fact that it stalled and the MAF sensor giving the code it would be good insurance to at least do a drain and fill. Do you use syn (just guessing based on the $60 oil change you mentioned)?
I know its expensive but, if you do, I suggest changing and going with a conventional oil for 1500 miles then change it again with synthetic. Better safe then sorry.

 

yea i use motorcraft full syn 5-20

really? reg oil? why? should i use 5-20?

 

There's no need to use a full syn oil when you're going to change after a short interval. You just want to get the initially contaminated oil out as soon as possible. Stick with the 5w20. After you change it
the first time there's still a possibility there there will be a small amount of water/crud still in there, hence the short turnaround change after 1000 or so miles...just to make sure. Then you can go back to
the full synthetic.

 

ouch...and that is why I don't have a 4x4 anymore. I kept doing retarded stuff without any help from others.

the fender flares are a MAJOR PITA to remove. but worth it. they retain a bunch of dirt/rocks and other crap.

1st off, remove the bolt each one has. it's at the lowest edge

2ndly, CLIPS: you need a really tiny screwdriver. each flare has about a gazillion little damn clips that you have to use the screwdriver on.

the clips are compression clips...kind of like drywall screw ratainers. use the screwdriver to compress a side of the clip. and wiggle, it will come out of the hole eventually. I might have broken a few when I took my flares off.

There are also a bunch of push - hole cover thingies. I ended up breaking each one off. Just grabbed them with a pair of pliers and yanked. But you can buy those from the parts store for a few bucks. These run along the bottom of the flare.


here is a pic of the truck with the flares removed so you can see the way they mount. the clips are on the side of the fender, the push thingies are on the bottom side (facing ground)

 

well now i have a clear pic of your truck with flood damage.... i wont be purchasing it on a used car lot some day. i have guys sinking HMMWVs in lakes and rivers all the time, and we change every single fluid. whether or not it looks clean. the vent lines throughout the vehicle like to suck in waterfor some reason, so i would advise you to dry everything out and change your power steering, brake, engine oil, tranny oil and at least your front diff, and if water hit your rear diff, change it too. if you dont wanna pay the $$ now, youre gonna pay even more down the road .

 

[/quote]
ahh... lovely rust holes... god i could never have those on my vehicle up here in minnesota... a 2010 would look like a mid 80's ford in 5 years lol, hijack, sorry, as someone else said take EVERYTHING out of your interoir and let er dry for a few days. open the doors on a nice windy day and let mother nature help you with what she caused hahah.

 

**update**

the "tick" is getting 50% quieter every day.
cleaned the truck from top to bottom twice so far. removed nearly 300 pounds of sand from the truck lol.
now i know a mass air costs 150 bucks OUCH!
181 bucks for a new custom fit vinyl floor
cleaned the engine bay 3 times now and still more to be done.

i cant remove the entire interior while still having to work out of it ...
finder flares are tomorrow.

 

good luck man...you'll get there eventually