Removed Post

 

just wondering but what does this actualy do for the vehicle?

 

All you have to do is unscrew the big nut at the bottom of the valve and drop a penny in and screw it back on without too much pressure on the nut.

Then if you need the EGR system for a station check or want it back just remove the penny.

You can use this also for a test to see if the EGR valve is your problem.

This will not throw a code as the valve is still going up and down but doing nothing so the computer thinks it is working OK.
You gas mileage will go down some when you do this as the engine will run a little richer.

 

For me, it cleaned up a lot of excess shizz out of my bay.
The main reason is during the transport of my rebuild the EGR pipe was lost.
It would have been around $40 shipped. Plus my EGR valve was on the fritz.
A new EGR will also run you upwards of $100.
I love the way it looks without it!
Deleting my smog and EGR made a big difference under the hood.

 

Das, thanks for the article! :)

I'm normally opposed to private messages because it hides information. :/
In this case I believe you've got a good idea because even talking about
experimenting with eliminating smog stuff can open a can of worms. LOL :)

I'm retired on disability and $27.50 is about a half day's pay. :/
I'm going to have to go with this idea...
------------------
Actuator Eliminator Resistor $2.00 each...
75 ohm 3watt Resistors can also be used to eliminate
the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids.
------------
...but don't know how yet. :) I have all the wiring diagrams but haven't
found any "answers" in them. :/

Anyway, I can make all the plates myself and cap off everything sorta
like you did. :) Was just looking and noticed the lower coolant hose is
weeping a little and it would be cool to get rid of that source of trouble
too.

I don't care about performance or gas mileage I hardly drive anywhere. :)
At this point all I mostly just care about is the equipment's longevity and
reliability.

Alvin in AZ

 

I'm not even into the experimental stage with this yet. :/
But here's something I figured out after taking apart my '90 F250 parts truck...
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20060711/50695K264L.GIF
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20061219/50635K547L.GIF
One end of the fitting is nothing more than a 3/4" flare fitting.
The other end of the fitting uses the same 1+1/16-12 threads but seats
like a Ford spark plug. Something like this could be made to work...
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20081007/5482K650L.GIF

And a couple things I found on the internet...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/egr-BW.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/egr-evp.jpg
Is that like what SubFord had posted? :)
For some reason his diagram is gone. :/

Alvin in AZ

 

Is this the missing diagram that you posted about:

/

 

Wow, your's is well thought out and complete. :)
Thanks for re-posting it for me. :)

SubFord, I see you've got it on photo-bucket. :/
Is it ok with you if I put it on my "file 12" web page? :)
(one step from "file thirteen" ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

Figured out all a guy has to do is pull the vacuum line and plug it.
As easy as that, to check it out to see if a deleted EGR will help
or hurt your throttle response, gas mileage, etc.

Was fixing to post it here and stumbled across another forum
where a guy had posted the same idea. :/ He beat me to it. :)

Thinking of trying it tomorrow since I need to go to town to get
my '89 Mustang computer "A9P" and some MAF stuff at the same
wrecking yard. :)

All I know is my '91 F150 351w with 73k miles on it gets -worse-
gas mileage than my '75 F150 with an 80k mile rebuilt 360FE! :/

Alvin in AZ

 

Hmmm...
Thinking this might be a better setup. :)
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20051213/4835K280L.GIF
Remove the O-ring and slather it down with anti-seize? :)

And SubFord's drawings have found a home. ;)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/egr-SubFord.jpg

Alvin in AZ

 

I'm going to be pulling my upper intake soon to remove and seal off the EGR pipe that cracked. Can anyone confirm if a Mcmaster/grainger part will work as a plug for the EGR in the lower intake manifold?

Will JB weld hold? I'm concerned about the temp - says it's good for 500 degrees.

Thanks.

 

How did this affect your gas mileage?

 

That's just the o-ring tho and the other more expensive one is good to 700F
and the manifold glows in the dark easy as anything (and just beginning to
glow in the dark is 750F).

Remove the o-ring and then the plug will be good for whatever temperatures
steel is good for. ;)

JBWeld will catch fire and turn to ash on a 1200F(?) exhaust manifold. LOL :)

Another approach that I might take is to tap the original fitting for 3/8" pipe
(tapered) thread and put a plug in it.

But for the cost of 2 weld-in oxygen sensor bung-holes I can buy 10 of them
from McMaster/Carr, so might buy the plug anyway. :)
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20060502/90326A140L.GIF

Alvin in AZ

 

I believe a 3/4" tapered pipe plug could be made to work, if it was
done with patience. Back it in and out many times with lots of oil. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

Lower(?) intake manifold?

Heck, I thought you were asking about the exhaust manifold. LOL :)
Now that I read it more carefully I have no idea what you are talking
about! LOL :)

--------------------------------

This is for the exhaust manifold and it works if you taper the threads
just a little, the thread pitch is not exactly the same but very close...
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20051213/4835K280L.GIF

The Allen needed is 9/16" but a 3/6" coupling nut works as an adapter.
I used both one way or another during my experimenting/tinkering. :)

The two nut sizes at the exhaust manifold are 1+1/4" and the upper
flarenut size is 1+1/16" just under the EGR vlave.

Alvin in AZ
ps- The nut under the heater hose at the intake manifold is 1+1/8".