Stocker on my '77 is something like 40amps, which might be fine. I don't have a bunch of aftermarket stuff on here, but I would like to ensure I can run my ARB fridge and perhaps a set of aftermarket lights for wheeling. Is this alternator enough?


I do plan on adding a second battery - I'd like to isolate it from starting duties and use it only for accessories, but charge it with the alternator. Is this highly unusual or pretty simple?


School me

 

check here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-diagram.html

 

3g alternator swap and dual battery links in the tech info compilation sticky.

 

3G swap and never worry again. Just a little wiring change and a pulley swap? I am sure you can get a 3G swap 101 walk thru.

If you can't locate OEM duel battery stuff....

"Dual Battery System You can connect the batteries with a heavy duty relay. Wrangler Power Products in Prescott, Arizona sells a relay, three position switch and all wiring for about $100. Switch lets you connect both batteries when running (for normal use), all the time (jump start yourself), or not at all (If there is a problem with the batteries).
Also marine supply houses sell manual switch for use in boats, they will work fine in a car, but you have to turn off the car to turn the dial and switch modes, or else it can fry your alternator."

Where to get 3G alternators for cheap.
130G Alternators:
94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6

Don't get one off a mod motor, completely different mounts.

 

Don't forget to include Taurus' to that list... most plentiful donor there is.

 

Yes, thanks for that reminder. How did I miss that in my copy and paste?

 

3 quick questions.....
1) Are all of the alternators listed the "classic" ear style mount.......or are some of them the newer pad style?
2) Anybody have a measurement from the centerline of the pivot bolt to the adjuster bolt centerline?
3) Are all the above listed 130 A?
Getting ready to do the 3G on my 4BT swap
#

 

40 amps is enough to run a dead stock truck without many original factory accessories. Just. Mine ran that way for quite a while.

With anything added like a fridge or extra lights, you need more alternator capacity.

The 3G upgrade is popular. I went with a new 100 amp single wire setup... basically GM guts in a Ford style case that bolts right in (Summit).

If you do upgrade alternator capacity significantly, the main charge wire needs upgrade also. Upgrade of charge wire usually means bypass of the factory ammeter (if equipped). The ammeter was not very useful anyhow. Adding a volt meter to a switched ignition circuit is a good way to monitor charging system condition.

 

I may have found a solution to the ammeter issue when upgrading to a 3G. PAPerformance has a "regulator" that plugs into the stock wiring. It says on their website that you can retain the original ammeter function. I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow and see what the story is. I will report back after I talk to them.

 

I'm curious as to what they have to say as well. I'll stay posted! Thanks, Shortbox4x4

 

I wanted to add a bit. I did the 3G upgrade and am happy with it. However, I needed to run a double V belt pulley to prevent squealing. Also, I used one from the J/Y, from a Taurus, and kept a spare behind my seat.

The j/y alt. lasted 2 years. The spare lasted 2 weeks. AZ wanted $180 for a rebuild. Then I found this great vid on youtube, about how to rebuild them correctly, not only replacing the worn out parts, as most mass rebuilders.

This guy has the kit for $30. http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/3g/

Now I have a quality alt, and a quality spare for long trips.

 

So one of these later alternators is a direct bolt in? Assume I just swap my pulley over?

 

OK...talked to PaPerformance...actually chatted online with them. Going to see if I can copy and paste the conversation........wish me luck.


Hi! Welcome to our Chat application, how can we help you?
PA TECH AGENT has joined the chat!

9:06 AM
PA TECH AGENT: Good morning, how can we help you?
-


9:07 AM
Kelly: Curious about your (462802C) Conversion......will this definitely retain the ammeter function on my '78 F150?


PA TECH AGENT: The ammeter does not use the regulator circuit on your 78 F150, it is tapped into the main power wire, the 462802C is a regulator conversion... so yes, the ammeter will remain with power if you keep the main power wire intact, however, it is too small for a larger alternator, so adding a new and larger power cable will reduce the amount of power the ammeter will see. So yes, it will have power but it really wont be accurate any more.


Kelly: Confused......main power wire to what, what does that wire feed? - 9:12 AM
PA TECH AGENT: the wire that provides B+ power from the alternator to the vehicle, that is where Ford connects the ammeter.


Kelly: Gotcha.......so I would still need to add the 4ga charge wire.......and I have seen a place that converts the original Ammeter to a Voltmeter .....so by doing that I should have an accurate voltmeter......correct?


PA TECH AGENT: correct. The 4GA wire would be needed for a larger capacity alternator. Truth be told, ammeters are somewhat useless now. They were intended in the 60-70's to show if the belt jumped off or the system lost charge, not how much of either. A volt gauge is far more representative of the system, so if you convert that it would be the best of both worlds.


Kelly: Yeah.......the original ammeter in these trucks left something to be desired when they were new......LOL........Thanks for the info....will probably order one in the next few days....I really like the fact that I don't have to start butchering up my original wiring.......thanks again


PA TECH AGENT: Yeah, and yes, we make the kit as "plug and play" as possible, plus if you ever restored it and went back to 1978 you just unplug it all and go back. Simple. Good luck with your project.

is there an

is there anything else we can do for you today?


Kelly: That's what I am looking for.......I've been re-powering this truck with a 4BT Cummins....that was my original goal with the whole project........be able to go back if I want to........so far, and Im not far from having it running, the only modification that cant be bolted back on, is I had to drill 3 holes......1" further back than the originals....in the frame for the transfer case mount......your solution is just one less "permanent" mod I will have to do Thanks again


If you are using the cummins 5.9 bracket we have an alternator for that too 2227SE check it out. Have a great day.


Kelly: Thanks.....You too........




So....there ya have it........sounds like a viable option......NOW.......If I can just find the info on the place that converts the ammeters to voltmeters......
BTW......the name of the place for the "regulator" is: PAPerformance
Here is a link:
1G-3G Conversion (462802C) - PA Performance.com


I think I'm going to give it a try........Hopefully I can find a link to the voltmeter conversion place.....

 

Yes, bolts right in. Read some threads about it. You need to loosen the three housing bolts on the alt. and rotate or 'clock' the back so the wire inlets aren't going in the top, but the bottom. You also need to install a mega fuse and housing, into the power line. It is all simple stuff, and explained in many threads. Do a search for the info you need. Many have wiring diagram, etc.

 

Found the link for the Ammeter to Voltmeter conversion place........


Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations


I think its on like Donkey Kong now for me!!!