ok so when i got my truck last June none of the turn signals worked. For that matter brake lights didnt work either. so i changed bulbs got most of them working. the front turn signals still wouldnt work with new bulbs. so i picked up some new sockets with pigtails but the have red black and white wires. my truck has black brown and green on the driver side and black brown and yellow on the passenger. Not sure exactly how to wire them up so i tried connecting black with black brown with red and white with green and yellow to the corresponding side. now the driver side running light works but no turn signal. and the passenger side is out still and the side marker light is out as well still no turn signal im lost on were to go from here. i have checked and replaced fuses with the corresponding size. installed a new 552 flasher relay. both rear turn signals work fine..... at one point when i turned on the emergency flashers the fronts were alternating back and forth but now only the driver running light is on nothing on the passenger.

 

Okay, my brain hurts reading all the details. This forum doesn't charge for periods and paragraph breaks, so it's okay to use as many as you'd like.

Wiring diagrams are here:

EVTM - ???Gary's Garagemahal


Turn signal problems are often caused by a bad ground at a light assembly. If the current passing through a dual filament bulb can't reach ground through the correct path, it can back feed through the other circuit. This can cause all sorts of weird behavior.

This is easy to check. Try your turn signals after dark. Turn off your porch light, etc. to make it as dark as possible. If you see any other bulbs illuminate dimly, you've probably got a bad ground at a light assembly. You may see a fault you couldn't see in the daylight.

Please be aware your truck has two flashers. On the fuse panel, the one in plain view on the aft side is for the turn signals. A second flasher on the other side of the fuse panel (facing the firewall) is for the 4-way flashers.

When troubleshooting, I highly recommend removing the flasher and installing a jumper across the two terminals. Something as simple as a paperclip would work, but a short piece of wire with a male spade terminal at each end is even better. With the flasher jumpered like that, you are now troubleshooting a much simpler circuit with a power source, a switch, and the bulbs.

 

Take your new sockets back out. Put the bulb in one, take the black and touch it on the battery negative, touch the other colored wires one at a time to the + of the battery. One of the other wires will make the bulb bright, one of the other wires will make it burn dimmer. Make note of that.

Put the sockets back in place. Take the black and hook it back up to the black, and take the colored wire that was dimmer, and hook it to the brown wire. The other socket wire that made it burn brighter during the test will hook to the trucks other colored wire.

Do the same for the other side. The dimmer wire will hook again to the brown wire, the brighter wire will hook to the other colored wire on the truck.

 

UPDATE.

after installing the sockets correctly the driver side is working sort of i have the running light, no turn signal. the passenger on the other hand is still completely dead. no power at the brown wire with lights on.

Checked the ground right buy the lights looks very good no breaks. checked the brown wire before it enters the cab under the air box no power. is there a ground im missing? in the dash?

 

That brown wire is one continuous circuit that feeds the entire truck; if it's broken someplace, nothing from the break 'til the end of the circuit will work.

 

If you have power on the brown on one side, your main brown coming out of the cab should be good. Like Chris said, there is a single brown that feeds all the running lights up front. That being said, I am not exactly sure how it's run and what light it hits first.

Here's a diagram of the marker lights(the brown circuit).

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/exterior-lamps.html

 

Looking at that diagram above a little bit, it looks like there may be two brown wires leaving the headlight switch. If your pass side light is out(righthand) is your righthand marker light in the fender out? If so, you might have a problem upstream. If the marker light in the fender works, then your problem is closer to the front light.

 

The EVTM presents a logical depiction of the wiring and what it does, it may or may not match how it's physically wired, though.

 

side marker is out as well.

 

I was looking at the link at Gary's site again. They have the connector locations listed. C240 is listed as being at the multi-function buzzer.
C125 looks like a connector for the digital clock, and is listed as "behind I/P near radio".

So it does look like there is another brown wire leaving the headlight switch. There is connector C906 that is listed as "lower LH cowl access hole" on the other leg.

What I do not know, can the wiring diagram be believed and the brown wire that goes across the dash, does it go through the firewall on that side and feed the marker lights on the pass side? I am a little doubtful, you would think there would be a connector over there at the firewall.

You are going to have to trace your brown wire on the pass side lights back and see where it goes.

 

i have been able to back track the brown wire from the passenger side comes in the firewall below the bower motor box and goes up under the dash from there i cannot tell. without removing the dash pad. the stereo bezel and instrument cluster bezel has been removed already.

 

Ok, didn't know this. So there are two different brown wire outlets through the firewall. Did you run across any connectors while you were tracing? If so, you could leave the connector connected and probe the back of the connector on the brown wire and see if you have voltage there with the headlight switch pulled out.

If you have a digital meter, it's important to leave the circuit plugged in while checking for voltage. If you want to unplug the circuit somewhere and check for voltage, or if you want something that easily can poke the wire through the insulation, then go buy a testlight, harbor freight sells them. They call them a circuit tester, they look like a ice pick with a clear handle and a wire hooked to the handle.

Thinking about it, if the brown wire you found runs behind the radio area, it would not surprise me if this brown wire has been cut by someone putting a aftermarket stereo in place.

 

it runs up and over the radio bezel and disappears behind the instrument cluster ill have to pull it out to continue tracing it down i pull the dash pad in hopes of finding when it went but with the weather in idaho i have to keep it drive ready my 13 focus dosent do well it 18 inches of snow.

 

Behind instrument panel near radio.

Yes, that's how I seem to remember it - comes out of the headlight switch, one leg runs up the dash and dims displays, triggers buzzers, stuff like that. (It could conceivably go through the firewall again with the HVAC & radio antenna (and anything else).) Another leg runs thru the firewall near the steering column and feeds the marker lights, at least the left side.

 

He has been tracing it back by hand, apparently it does go through the firewall over there with or near the HVAC. I believe there are some large yellow wires going through there also.