Hey everyone, I have a question about oil.

I recently posted a thread about my 2011 5.0L F-150 making a knocking sound that I was unsure about. Here's a link to that thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0l-or-not.html

But my question here is about oil. My truck is still making that damned noise, it seems more audible sometimes and less so others. But it ONLY happens when the engine gets warmer. The noise is completely absent when I do a cold start in the mornings. I've been trying to figure out if it always made that noise or not...I do remember a few years ago when the truck was brand new, pulling up at a drive through window for coffee and noticing that there seemed to be an excessive amount of engine noise echoing off the brick building. But other than that it never sounded out of place to me.

I only started noticing this knock after my most recent oil change, which for the first time ever in this truck, I went from using the Standard issue Motocraft 50/50 synthetic blend oil to using Mobile full synthetic.

Now, I could be totally off base with this...But is it possible that my trucks engine is making more noise due to the thinner synthetic oil? I am considering going back to the MC 50/50 blend oil to see if it makes a difference. Also it's worth noting that this knock really only seems to be present below 1000RPMS. When I'm actually driving and pulling between 1500 and 3000 RPMS the engine itself sounds and feels as smooth as butter. On that note, it idles perfectly smooth as well...It's just the noise below 1K RPMS.

Anyone have any thoughts on this matter?

 

It's possible. Most people will say that there's no discernable noise difference between oils. However, I have personally noticed a little more engine noise with Mobil1. This was done with back to back changes in 3 different vehicles. With the Mobil I got a little more valve train noise in each vehicle. Does that mean it's protecting less? No. It's still a great oil and I left it in each vehicle for the normal OCI. I've put many many hard miles on my 2002 Mustang GT. It's gotten Mobil1 since I bought it in 2003 and it's still going strong.

Check out this thread. And look around the site. There's tons of info on different oils,

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ic#Post4296412

 

Hi
I have a 2014 F150 with the 5.0 and it started the knock about a thousand miles after it's first oil change. It did get Mobile 1 by the way. I do have a post on the 5.0 engine knock thread but I haven't learned how to post a link to a thread yet. Long story short they replaced the timing chain and tensioners, idler pulley and short block and when it gets to operating temp it still does exactly the same thing as 640 CI ALUMINUM FORD is describing. At this point I would think anything is possible, it seems that even Ford doesn't know. I think it would be worth a try and switch to a different oil. Please keep us informed.

 

Has anyone considered going to a 5w-30 oil like the ecoboost engines? I think the EB's are using for the higher possibility of oil sheer due to fuel dilution but I don't see where it could hurt to try.

 

But could, that be used to void a warranty since the 5.0 is supposed to use 5W 20

 

My 5.4 is much quieter on 5w30..... Worth a try.

It would be pretty hard to prove which oil was in the sump with an oil analysis. Oils shear and oxidize during use which makes the viscosity a moving target throughout the OCI.

 

I've been using 5w-30 in my 4.6L Expy since new and it calls for 5w-20. 112K miles of no engine trouble.

 

I use 5w30. It won't void the warranty. In fact, Ford specifies it on some engines, and in the Mustang they even specify 5w50 on the 5.0 cars with Track Pack. Higher viscosity oil is going to give you better longevity and make your engine happy. You might lose 0.2 MPG, which is what Ford cares about thanks to the Feds, but I'd rather have a happier engine.

Also, make sure you use a good filter as well. Motorcraft filters are great. I like Purolator too. Some filters still use cardboard internals and crappy or non-existant drainback valves, and that's a no-no.

 

That part's true.

Not true. Certainly wouldn't hurt anything though,.

 

Motorcraft and Purolator have been having issues with holes in the filtering media.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3274091/Purolator_PL14610_with_tears

I would and actually still do use them for short intervals but if you're thinking about long drain intervals on synthetic oil I'd look for something other than Purolator or the Purolator built Motorcraft filters.

BTW that cardboard is actually a fiber material and if you ever cut one open and see it seperated from the filter media take pictures. I've seen plenty of metal end caps broke loose from the media but never a fiber one.

 

Wix used to make a really good filter but they are a little hard to find here. They made all of Car Quest filters also, even used the same numbering system. Unfortunately they closed the one near me. These days I have been using the Mobile 1 filter, I don't know if it is worth the extra money or not.

 

If you have a NAPA near by the NAPA Gold filters are WIX filters

 

Subscribing to follow

 

That's absolutely True

What do u all think about FRAM Filters, specifically the Toughguard
I've been using FRAM for many years now, from normal daily drivers to my high performance supercharged street truck & even on the Hayabusa (1300cc crotch-rocket).
I like the non-slip grip, anti-drainback valve & after cutting them open, haven't seen one come apart on the inside.

FRAM web-link: Oil Filters | FRAM

 

For those interested, Motorcraft vs. others cut away comparisons:

http://hillerford.com/resource_libra...aftcompare.pdf