I picked up a re-manufactured Wearever Unloaded Vacuum Power Brake Booster from advancedauto today to fix a horrible vacuum leak. I got it installed tonight, and have a question.


Wearever Brake Boosters Vacuum Power Brake Booster without Master Cylinder - Remanufactured 54-74211: Advance Auto Parts


The connecting rod on the new power booster is about 20 thousands larger than the original booster rod in one direction (.65 inches on the new rod and .63 inches on the old connecting rod). It seems to be slightly wallowed out like the previous owner may have not had a bushing on the break. I assume I need to see if I can find a bushing to take up some of the slack.


When you press on the break pedal, I hear a slight click sound. I have determined it sounds if the click is coming from inside the booster and not from the switch or the slack in the connecting arm. It made a loud pop when I pushed the pedal in for the first time after instillation. Now it makes a little click sound every time I push the pedal in.


Should I find a bushing to take up some of the slack form the connecting rod and forget about the noise, or should I take it back and get a replacement?


It seems to be working fine and does not leak.


Also, what bushing should I get if any?


Thanks,
Cody

 

Cody,

This bushing would go where?
Between firewall & booster or booster & master or the pin the rod fits over at the pedal?
Just cant picture where you want this bushing is all. Then again stock I don't think used any bushings.
Think you can adjust the rod longer/shorter between the booster and master but that is all.
Dave ----

 

The bushing I am talking about is in the connecting rod fits over at the pedal.


Attached is an image I found on google images.


Thanks,
Cody

 

Here are the washers.
Ford - Ford - Ford Brake Light Switch Bushing - Mounts Either Side Of Brake Light Switch - Genuine Ford | C5DZ-2B129-A - Macs Auto Parts

Keep looking, especially at old mustang and other ford vehicle restoration places. Ford used this setup since the 60's.

 

OK so you don't have the black bushing and want to make one right?


I am sure the pin thru the rod has some play or the brake light switch would not work.
If your setup had all the plastic washers & bushings then I would say that is good.


Now where did you say this clicking was coming from?
Was it from inside the booster and if so I would get another.
Dave ----

 

A loud clunk from inside the booster (followed by persistent clicking) is ominous and I would exchange it.

 

That is what I was thinking, but I did not know if anyone else experienced the same issue. I will call and get a replacement.

Thank you guys for your input!

Thanks,
Cody

 

After a hectic week, I finally got the booster replacement painted and installed. Even though the replacement was the same p/n it was refurbished by a different company. They did a much better job on the new unit. It makes absolutely no noises at all. Thanks again for the advice guys.

 

Whoo hoo!!

 

Good to hear it worked out with the different unit.
Do you know how rebuilt the first & second units?
Dave ----

 

Unfortunately I do not. The first unit came in a generic brown box. The pushrod that insert into the master cylinder could easily be pulled out of the unit. The connecting rod had no spring at its base. The threads has been shot blasted to the point where I was afraid to torque the nuts down to 25 ft-lbs. I only was allowed to see a glimpse of the second box because they needed it to return the core in. It had a large oem sticker on the box and a made in USA decal. The master cylinder stud would not budge when pulled on. The connecting rod had a spring at its base along with a layer of foam and a cotton layer inside the plastic cover. It also came with a rubber gasket that went between the plastic cover and the rear of the unit. The threads were very cleaned and not distorted with shot blast.

Overall very very happy.

in hindsight, I should have just returned the first unit be for even installing it.

Thanks,
Cody

 

They always have a very bright tag on that master cylinder pushrod saying "DO NOT REMOVE THIS PUSHROD, REACTION WASHER CAN BECOME MISS-PLACED AND CAUSE BOOSTER FAILURE".

 

Neither one of the boosters I got hat any sort of tag on them. The first one came with a loose pushrod out of the box.

 

Ha I was wondering I guess went and bought a remanufactured brake booster for my 1986 f150 and installed it and adjusted it and the brake pedal still goes to the floor can any one help thanks

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?