Junction block?
#1
Junction block?
Not quite out working under the hood just yet, but as I was out installing the rebuilt heater box, and pondering the under-hood work, I saw this terminal on the fender apron. Did a little searching around here, but just to be sure (I've not got out the voltmeter yet), I assume this is just a junction block for these three (make it four) wires? It's looking a little ratty, so before it breaks and shorts everything out, I'd like some insight as to whether I'm right about this thing. Thanks-
#3
D3TZ-14448-A (replaced C5TZ-14448-E & C7TZ-14448-C) .. Junction Block (Motorcraft DY-141) / Available from Ford ~ Memphis TN Ford Parts Depot has 35.
MSRP: $39.07 / FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor horizonpartsguy.com price: $25.79 / Horizon Ford ~ Seattle (Tukwila) WA
Applications: 1965/67 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 / 1965/69 F500/1100 / 1970/77 C/CT500/900 (gas) / 1973/74 F500/880.
There are 90+ available from Ford dealers & obsolete parts vendors scattered across the US
MSRP: $39.07 / FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor horizonpartsguy.com price: $25.79 / Horizon Ford ~ Seattle (Tukwila) WA
Applications: 1965/67 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 / 1965/69 F500/1100 / 1970/77 C/CT500/900 (gas) / 1973/74 F500/880.
There are 90+ available from Ford dealers & obsolete parts vendors scattered across the US
#4
#6
#7
Here's a link to an aftermarket part for anybody without the skills of DoubleOh7 or the time - Catalog which I "borrowed" from a year ago post.
Just a note to add to the conversation - my junction block (on a Custom Cab) failed, the insulator broke and allowed the pictured leads + one more to contact the fender. The result was fried instrument cluster wiring and an artfully smoked and customized ammeter guage, which I replaced with a used one from a marine supply house ($4.99 I think). Many, many hours to rewire - I'm no expert.
The point is: I believe everybody should replace this part. The insulator is brittle, as pointed out above, and is subject to failure anytime.
Hope this helps someone, thanks to all for your contributions to this forum, I could not have kept my F100 running without all of your input.
Just a note to add to the conversation - my junction block (on a Custom Cab) failed, the insulator broke and allowed the pictured leads + one more to contact the fender. The result was fried instrument cluster wiring and an artfully smoked and customized ammeter guage, which I replaced with a used one from a marine supply house ($4.99 I think). Many, many hours to rewire - I'm no expert.
The point is: I believe everybody should replace this part. The insulator is brittle, as pointed out above, and is subject to failure anytime.
Hope this helps someone, thanks to all for your contributions to this forum, I could not have kept my F100 running without all of your input.
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#8
Thanks for the insights and links.
Without doing more than seeing it and taking the photo of it (in the dark) it appears to be a fairly thin phenolic insulator plate with a 5/16" carriage bolt coming up from underneath. Not even much protection from the two screws fastening it to the apron. Even so, I too saw: break, short, burn, cry - in that order.
I'm pretty tech savvy having made my own wiring harnesses or repaired them for more vehicles than I care to remember. It'll take me a few minutes to make a new one once I dig though my bins and scour up the parts needed to make it, best guess. But I don't like the design (even if it might last another 50 years if I got a new one) and will make it impossible to break and short against the fender apron. Save the tears for more important things.
Without doing more than seeing it and taking the photo of it (in the dark) it appears to be a fairly thin phenolic insulator plate with a 5/16" carriage bolt coming up from underneath. Not even much protection from the two screws fastening it to the apron. Even so, I too saw: break, short, burn, cry - in that order.
I'm pretty tech savvy having made my own wiring harnesses or repaired them for more vehicles than I care to remember. It'll take me a few minutes to make a new one once I dig though my bins and scour up the parts needed to make it, best guess. But I don't like the design (even if it might last another 50 years if I got a new one) and will make it impossible to break and short against the fender apron. Save the tears for more important things.
#9
Also, I always use an amp meter between the battery and positive terminal of the battery (or a 12 volt light bulb) to see if any current is flowing against a load before hooking up the BAT cable to the + BAT terminal. If I have any current flowing I pull all the fuses first to see if it goes away. If so I check for further shorts. If not from the fused items I dig into harnesses. Fried harnesses make for a very bad day.
#10
I had no idea that the junction block was available, but I wouldn't use the stock piece. I used something like this: JB3816-2 Cooper Bussmann Junction Black .87. Lower cost, and I believe a better product. You will have to drill out, or change, the connectors for the larger stud size. Good luck.
#11
I still lean towards the 'fused block', posting for pic only: I went w/ a 50 amp, should be able to purchase in any flavor; if decide to go this route, imagine most auto parts stores would carry fused junction blocks?? Purchased at local auto parts store which happens to be CARQUEST for $6.75.
http://www.carquest.com/wcsstore/CVC...209587_AIO.jpg
http://www.carquest.com/wcsstore/CVC...209587_AIO.jpg
#12
Haven't traced it all out yet - may look at it tonight a little - but since these wires are at potential to fry all the way to the dash, then a fused terminal would be a good idea. Certainly don't need to be fully exposed to potential shorts.
I've redone plenty of engine-bay and under dash harness repairs because an unfused wire shorted and let the smoke out. They put no protection from the battery to the fuse box until... probably about the time they decided to add dual master cylinder brake systems.
I've redone plenty of engine-bay and under dash harness repairs because an unfused wire shorted and let the smoke out. They put no protection from the battery to the fuse box until... probably about the time they decided to add dual master cylinder brake systems.
#13
My home-made junction block
As mentioned in my truck thread I did finally throw these together last night. Made a couple extras while I was setup to make them, so I have two available to anyone who might need them. Let me know if you're interested.
They're made from thick phenolic insulator plate and should last a long time. The bolt is stainless and when I can get to the hardware store I'll get some stainless nuts too. They have the same spacing as the original, so should mount right up. I'll replace mine this weekend.
They're made from thick phenolic insulator plate and should last a long time. The bolt is stainless and when I can get to the hardware store I'll get some stainless nuts too. They have the same spacing as the original, so should mount right up. I'll replace mine this weekend.
#15
John