Purchuse one new coil.
Start by replacing the first cylinder, then test drive for the issue.
If still there move the coil you took out to the next cylinder.
Keep doing this until you come to the cylinder that clears the trouble.
Note that the coil boots may stick fast to the plug in each cylinder so take care to twist the boot and pull firmly until it lets go.
Inspect each boot for hard cracks, pin holes and carbon tracking and replace if needed.
On each change use dielectric grease on the boot tip and inside about 1/4" so the boot tip finds the plug tip blindly.
Be sure the spring is fully extended so it touches the plug tip when installed and not stuffed up inside the boot.
Find the mm size small 1/4'' drive socket and extensions to remove the coil bolt.
Hopefully no bolts are frozen and break off.
The coil connector is a spring lock affair to the coil.
Take your time as you will need patience on the back two on each side as well as the interference with the fuel rails.
Driver side front, unbolt the power steering bracket so you can get behind for those coils.
There is no short cut by meter measuring because you can't detect this kind of coil fault in that manner. Reason is it's 'shorted turns', not an open or dead short that would set a code and tell you which one it was as a hard fault..
Good luck.