You know I need to add one more thing. Rock Auto.com were GREAT!!! I ordered the parts, went cheap on the shipping (3-day). The parts were here the NEXT DAY!!! The price was real good. Thanks to all who contributed their knowledge, It save me a bunch.

Bp

 

Sorry I havn't been back for awhile.
I am fully experienced with this type of issue.
I saw it coming up very often 6 years ago and it was being blamed on transmission shudder.
I got into the same issue and done a lot of rsearch over a year's time to learn what was happening and how it shows it'self.
Very many shops still don't know about this and looked like many dealer shops were not getting it either.
I think now they do.
Anyways, the missing between speed lower and upper limits is the dead giveaway to what is wrong.
The reason is complicated as I indicated.

..
A hint to anyone wanting to test the PCM coil drivers is to cut off a coil socket, solder leads to it so you can plug in the coil driver onto it.
Using a resistance meter, "look" back at he PCM driver.
If you see it open cbances are it's good but if you see less than about 5000 ohms, it's likely about shorted and can over heat a coil and damage it from passing current full time to long.
The other side will have 12 volts on it when the igntion is in "run" as a check of the harness.
If you see any driver with perment low resistance assuming there is no harness rubthrough, it means a new PCM and programing as well as possible coil/s, labor and all. A lot of $ to go with or let the truck set forever or sell it as is since you can't handle this.
The codes you should see from this kind of trouble will be open coil primary code numbers.
Alway hope the coil is open or there is a harrness issue but somtimes it's not
Good luck and great work.
Happy Holidays.

 

I have a '98 5.4l iter. A few years ago, I had the exact same symptons as you describe. I had just over 100k miles and thought it might be a spark plug going bad. After changing the plugs and checking everything else, couldn't figure it out. Never had a check engine light came on. I finally gave in and took it to the local Ford dealer. The problem was one bad oxygen sensor. Has been running fine every since.

 

Hi there,
I too am having this same issue, it doesnt happen every day, some days it doesnt do it at all.. some days its way worse than others.. if i gunn it..the problem temporarily goes away. Tuesday i took it and had the oil changed, the tranny flushed, and the weird part is, since then, its only doing this studdering thing now...when the truck is cold.. its running great when its heated up...

A few other things... the abs light goes off and on... a few times a day... and a few weeks ago, the airbag light stayed on for over an hour, went off, and hasnt come back on since then...

Im thinking that i need to take it down and get the codes read from what im hearing.. my next question...cheaper to go to a private shop...? Or a Ford Dealer???

 

To outdoor, you have one faulty coil.
Your studder occurs in OD at light throttle application between those road speeds.
This is when the EGR opens and the mixture goes lean, the cylinder that has the faulty coil cannot fire the lean mixture.
As soon as you either down shift or give more throttle the stumble goes away until the next time the same conditions are encountered.
Finding which cylinder is the trick, because it's not a 'hard' fault.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply... is this a spendy fix, or one that i can do myself??? And whats the trick in finding the faulty coil??? Thanks!!

 

Purchuse one new coil.
Start by replacing the first cylinder, then test drive for the issue.
If still there move the coil you took out to the next cylinder.
Keep doing this until you come to the cylinder that clears the trouble.
Note that the coil boots may stick fast to the plug in each cylinder so take care to twist the boot and pull firmly until it lets go.
Inspect each boot for hard cracks, pin holes and carbon tracking and replace if needed.
On each change use dielectric grease on the boot tip and inside about 1/4" so the boot tip finds the plug tip blindly.
Be sure the spring is fully extended so it touches the plug tip when installed and not stuffed up inside the boot.
Find the mm size small 1/4'' drive socket and extensions to remove the coil bolt.
Hopefully no bolts are frozen and break off.
The coil connector is a spring lock affair to the coil.
Take your time as you will need patience on the back two on each side as well as the interference with the fuel rails.
Driver side front, unbolt the power steering bracket so you can get behind for those coils.
There is no short cut by meter measuring because you can't detect this kind of coil fault in that manner. Reason is it's 'shorted turns', not an open or dead short that would set a code and tell you which one it was as a hard fault..
Good luck.

 

You'll notice these symptoms usually continue because all the variables involved from parts to opinions...two tricks to try that fix 25% or so....anytime these symptoms "randomly" appear, slowly jiggle/wiggle/turn your climate control switch with a steady throttle...then your panel selector swicth if no change...this will help verify if ya's got a vaccum leak inside the a/c plenum...blend door,actuactors,blend door motor etc...ALSO overlooked but part of that system is the varistor/potentiometer on those *****...they wear out...all this is a quick free check before ya's freakout...like we tend to do with our mancaves on wheels...the other trick is to verify your E-brake cables have equal tension....best dialed in on a flat or slight upgrade...by design, they grab rolling backwards first...but it helps them not get "unequalized" like can happen after being on a lift...the vehicles static GVW can stretch em' right out of balance when it hits the floor...this can account for a few Hg's gained by snuggin' up misc. Vac. Leaks...might help some folks B 4 or after some of those "can't findems" ...good luck!

 

Bought my 99 F250 LD a couple of months ago and had the bucking/shuddering problem out of the gate. Was worried that it was transmission. Noticed that the problem went away when I took it out of OD. I read Bluegrass' comments on another thread and had a sneaking suspicion that one of my coils was the problem. It finally threw me a code this week telling my that my number 3 cylinder was misfiring. I took it in for a tune up today and told them to replace the #3 coil pack. When they got in there we could see where #2 coil pack was broken. Replaced both #2 and #3 and it resolved the bucking. I dove home on some hilly roads where I would always experience the bucking if I was in OD. I had adjusted my driving habits to try to avoid the bucking in the past but I just drove as I normally would on the hills in OD and no more bucking. I even tried to make it do so by giving light throttle between 45 and 60 while going uphill in OD and no more bucking.

Problem solved.

Thanks Bluegrass.

 

Your quite welcome.
Enjoy.

 

Do these same symptoms apply to a 3v 5.4? My 2004 has begun to develop the shudder lugging it in OD. I have no codes.
My 2000 is still running smooth.

 

You have coils of the same design.
The cause is still the same.
Good luck.

 

Having same issue when I cam across this post. Went to parts store to purchase new coil pack and had them scan… no code. Today, on the way home from next town over, the check engine light came on. Back to the parts store tomorrow.

 

Wow. Glad I found this!!! I have been having the same symptoms on my 2007 expedition. 50-65 light acceleration. Shudders. If I step on it it goes away. Sometimes it does it once sometimes three or four times in sucuession. Never get a studder when slowing down. Fever have been given a check engine light. It's not real violent but definitely a good lunk.


I was really worried that it was the torque converter or transmission.

I hope it's a cop as that sounds better than a rebuild on the tranny.

 

With 7800 hits on this thread there is still a lot of mistery about this issue.
When I came to the board some years back I saw the problem over and over with no answer to it.
Many want to blame the transmission but those days are long gone from when there was issues with the transmission that have been worked out by Ford.
Not that there can't be a trans issue but the hint is the way it shows up as a studder/missfire under specific conditions with no codes is the clue.
Good luck.