So I just came in from trying unsuccesfully to get my 351W to run. I've got a good, strong spark, gas and compression. I've got the wires run in this order.



I almost got it to fire a few times and then nothing. Even when I put it back to where it was when it was almost firing I still got nothing. I pulled the valve cover and rotated the crank until the #1 intake valve opened and closed, and then, with a zip tie down in the spark plug hole, I rotated it a bit more to bring the piston to the top. The rotor was pointing right at #1. I tried a second cap and wire set that I had sitting around, and now am getting really bad arcing between where the coil wire connects to the coil (MSD blaster 2) and where the MSD box connects to the coil + and -. It's still not even trying to fire. I'm tired and frustrated. Got any ides?

 

Double check the firing order, I help my son change out a 351 with a 305 and the firing order was different, and also make double sure that your not at TBC on the exhaust stoke, otherwise the distributor is out 180 degrees. Just a few thoughts on where I,ve been before! hehe.

 

where are you getting spark at?, check it at the spark plugs.

 

I've double, triple, quadruple, and quintuple checked the firing order. I can say it by memory right now. 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. I have a spark checker that I put in line with both the coil wire to the distributor, and the number one spark plug wire from the distributor. I'm really almost certain that I'm not 180 degrees out. The intake valve on the front, passenger's side cylinder, opened and closed, then I took it to TDC. The rotor was pointing right where it should be. I haven't had the distributor out since it last ran (I've recently finished rewiring it). I've got juice at the ignition box. It almost started this morning, and then nothing.

 

Starting at the basic, remove #1 plug, turn engine until you feel compression on #1 cyl., then move the crankshaft until the piston is at tdc. Then you will know the engine has the number 1 cylinder at firing position. You can then turn the crank slightly until the desired timing make on the crank is in line with the pointer then turn the dist. until it is ready to fire.
If your getting fire and fuel, at that point it should fire and run , unless something like the valve timing is off.
Good luck
Larry

 

The firing order you posted is correct for a 351W.

Also your plug wires are on the distributor in the correct order as the SBF distributors all turn Counterclockwise.

As mentioned, you need to confirm (and not by looking at the valves but by feeling compression) that you have the distributor in and at #1 at the top of the compression stroke.

Now I have a couple questions:

First what kind of carburetor do you have on the engine? Manual, electric or automatic choke? Turn you idle mixture screws in all the way (very gently) then bring them out about 2 full turns. This should be a good starting point but fairly rich - you can tune it out later. If this is an Edelbrock carb, you'll have to!

Second, did you remove the distributor from the engine? Are you certain it isn't one tooth off? If you are spot on with the rotor and the piston is at TDC, then you need to advance the distributor about 10 degrees (turn the housing clockwise). That equates to about 3/4 inch of movement of your vacuum advance. (edit note: just saw you answer in the previous post but want to leave this in for future reference).

Third, you need to pull out a spark plug and look at the spark to make sure it is strong enough - bright blue/white! Plugs gapped correctly?

Fourth, make sure all your vacuum ports are closed, and your vacuum advance is running off the passenger side vacuum port if you have left and right if equipped.

Charge the battery overnight. The MSD module will not work well on a battery that can't provide 13.5 or more volts.

To start the motor with these settings, push the accellerator to the floor , and pull the choke cable out 1/2 way, then let the gas pedal up. DO NOT press on the pedal again.

Leave the distributor just loose enough to turn by hand.

Turn on the key and crank the engine. If it doesn't start right up, step on the gas pedal very slightly to crack open the throttle (you may not have the idle setting open enough to start).

If it still doesn't start, turn the distributor SLOWLY first to advance the timing out to a total of about 15 degrees more. If that doesn't work, then back it off slowly until you are retarded back 10 degrees more than you started.

If it starts, then set your timing, idle mixture and idle RPM using a VACUUM GAUGE as described in this link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...e-trouble.html

If none of that works, come back and let us know.

Also, don't for get to let us know what kind of carb and choke you have.

 

I've done all of that Julie, I had it running as a daily driver and pulled it off the road to install a new wiring harness. I didn't change the carb or the distributor settings, I used all of the connector casings and a wiring diagram of the original harness. I've got power where there should be power, but the engine won't fire. On a side note, I've never under stood the "one tooth off" theory. Isn't that why you can adjust the position of the distributor? It's a 600cfm Edelbrock with a manual choke.

 

I.M.H.O. If all you have done is change the wire harness then thats where the problem should be. Was the MSD installed before the new harness or an addition? I think I would re-check the connections for the MSD box and coil for being correct or loose.
If you didnt remove the dizzy then its probably not the cause, if you had removed it then I woud remove it again, set TDC (again) and reinstall the dizzy.
I've had engines act real stupid if they are out 180 deg.
good luck with it.
Ed

 

Well the Edelbrock Carb is an issue all unto itself. I have a 750 and know for a fact that if the spark plug gap is not perfect, and if the idle mixture is not perfect and if the PCV valve is not free, the truck will not start - it's like flipping a switch - just went through it this weekend with a plugged PCV valve.

I can guarantee you that if your idle mixture is not set right for your current set up, that you may be flooding it with a single gas pedal stomp or you may be way too lean. It's a pain if you can't get it started to adjust it. Mine tends to flood real easy!

One more stupid question: Do you have a strong clean ground to your engine? The negative battery cable should be bolted on your starter mounting bolt.

Also I have to agree with e William. Something is probably different due to the rewire. It may be as simple as a bad ground, a crossed wire, or you've plug wire cross talk.

Plug wires right type for the MSD module? And of course if you just installed the ignition module you DID remove the ballast resistor on your main ignition wire, right?

Just thinking out loud!

Try only setting the choke half way and not stepping on the gas next time......

 

Sure, theroetically. But with the vacuum advance unit sticking out in front of your dizzy, there isn't enough room to turn it to find the 'sweet spot' and retain your fine tuning ability. It's not a big deal to lift the dist up, move the shaft a bit and put in back in on the proper 'tooth.'

 

Yes the MSD box was installed before the new harness. The power wire from the ignition switch was replaced, but ran to the same place on the MSD box.

Julie, I agree with you about the Edelbrock carbs. Last spring I adjusted the idle screws with a vacuum gauge. I don't remember what the plug gap is off the top of my head, but I had it running rather well before the harness. I will check the PCV valve per your direction. One other thing I did think of this morning as I laid in bed was that I installed a charge indicator light per some instructions I found on-line. I ran it in parallel with the power wire to the MSD box, I wonder if it's contributing to or causing the no start or the arcing coil issues. Should be an easy test, pop out the bulb and give it a go. I'll take a look at it this afternoon after church and football. The more I think about it, the more I think it's gotta be something real simple that I'm overlooking.

 

almost sounds like that indicator light is grounding out system

 

Yep, it's that one little stupid thing every time! I'd disconnect the wire for the light, not just the bulb because it might be shunted internally. My MSD drop and drive Distributor really needs the full juice or or it's tempermental too. So that's a good thought.

Once you get it started and running we can rethink the indicator hook up - if that's it.

Yeah I love the Edelbrock carb, once you get it adjusted right and everything is sync-ed up. But it's VERY unforgiving if it gets "out."

And the MSD systems are great too - but again, real voltage hogs - needs 13.5 or it's not going to work well.

Good luck!

PS Edit note: Sometimes those coils have built in ballast resistors (food for thought). It shouldn't be arching at all. That tells me that most of your voltage if not all is going to ground. Try to insulate it - or perhaps it's time for new - a solid core coil - Flamethrower!

 

I popped the bulp out, still arcing. I clipped the wire, still arcing. I'm thinking I must have done the coil in somehow. Wifey wants to go get the boys a bunk bed this afternoon, so there will probably be no truck time till next weekend. I'll keep you posted.

 

Also, check the primary coil wire (the spark plug wire like one) for high resistance.

If you get a new coil get a Flamethrower! They are solid packed instead of oil filled. about 50% of new oil filled coils are bad coming off the shelf. Took me about 100 miles and 3 tows home to find this out!

Again just thinking out loud!