I've reviewed some similar posts on this, but nothing quite hits the mark; I've got a '03 F350 and have lost power to everything controlled at the driver's door switch array as well as at all three other doors. No power to the windows/locks/mirrors with ignition switch on. I DO have power to the door locks with the ingition switch in off or accessory positions and the key fob will activate the locks regardless of the switch position.

I am suspecting one of three things;

• The power wire that feeds power to the drivers door (and then subsequently to the other three doors) is broken, likely in the driver's door jamb area.
• That there is a bad relay that sends power to the aforementioned circut.
• That the ignition switch is bad (less likely).

As the door lock circut has to be hot even when the igintion is off (or else you wouldn't be able to use the key fob to unlock), I would suspect that it has a seperate power feed wire/circut that provides power with the ignition in the off position and that it switches to the main circut with the ignition in the on position. And that's why the door locks will work with the ignition off. This leads me to think that it is more likely to be a wire or a relay.

Before I start pulling things apart and pulling on random wires looking for breaks, if anyone can point me to a specific relay to check and/or the proper color wires to pull on, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Try to reset the computers first.

 

The power windows are fed with a lightblue/black wire. You are correct, this main power wire goes to the main driver's door switch first. This wire gets it's power from circuit breaker 601 in the underdash fuse box. This breaker is fed from the Accessory delay relay, also located in the underdash fuse box. This relay is what gives you power when the key is off for a few minutes.

The power mirrors are fed with a orange/lightgreen wire. The schematic shows this being hot all the time from fuse 13, 10 amp in the underdash fuse box.

The way it's looking, I would suspect you might have a broken wire in the door jamb area. If you need more detailed schematics that you can print off, go to autozone's site, register, plug in your truck, and then click on "repair guides". Then click on "wiring diagrams". It's surprising how good the later model diagrams are on that site, and they are free.

 

When I realized how easy it was to access the switches, I checked with my test light for power...boy do I have it.

The lt blue/black wire going into the blue power window plug is hot. Oddly, every wire going into the blue plug has power. Is that right?

As a matter of fact, when I check each wire at each of the four plugs only two are not hot; the black/white and white/red on the power lock switch. And, when I hit those two with my test light, it activates the locks - one unlocks and the other locks.

It doesn't seem like I should have so much power up there.

When I pull the #601 CB out, I have no power to the lt blue/black wire, but I still have power to all of the other wires in the blue plug going to the window switch.

HELP!!!!!

 

Ok, further testing and comparison to my F150's window switches confirms that I should not have power to all of the wires in there all the time. Some are constant hot, and some are hot when switches are activated. I also unpluged the lead going to the driver's window motor, and both wires have power, which to me says that the motor is trying to go up and down at the same time.

I am suspecting that the switch array/microprocessor on the dirver's door is bad. I'm wishing I had another truck to pull the switches from to see if that would cure the problem before investing in what I expect is an expensive part(s).

I was going to try jumping power to the window motor to see if it would work when not plugged in, as I fear that this might have damaged all of the motors. But now my batteries are dead from having the ignition on and the doors open for so long. I have it on a charger and will resume testing when it is charged back up.

I would have expected that CB 601 would trip to protect the motors before they would have been burned up, but I seem to have power on both legs of the CB, and it isn't getting hot.

Any assistance/suggestions in the meantime would be greatly appreciated.

 

Success! I realized that the solid black wire (which I thought to be ground) had power. Thinking that odd, I started tracing it back through the door jamb looking for a short. Alas when I pulled on it near the jamb, it pulled out of the wiring loom, broken. I went to the inside of the truck and found the wire and pulled it through from the inside. When I connect the two ends, everything works. I still don't understand how this thing is wired such that this happens, but I will run a new black wire and not worry about the details. Oddly, the inside section of the wire was twisted as if it came off of the roll at the factory wrong, and instead of getting the twists out, they just stretched it out, putting several kinks in the wire. Similar to how a garden hose gets a kink in it.

Nonetheless, problem solved. Thanks for all of the help.

 

When you don't have a ground, lots of strange things happen. Without the ground, everything was "floating up" to 12v. Your testlight was sometimes making a halfway path to ground, and that's why some things were trying to work when you touched the testlight.