I'm on the hunt for a WDH so I can take full use of a dump trailer's 7,000 capacity. My '09 F-150 4x 4.6L 3v 145"wb 3.55std SCab has the factory tow package, TBC and the GVW 6950Lb package. I've got Timbrens on it but do not ever intend to overload it, they make hauling the desgned load very stable.

Right now it appears the OEM hitch holds me to 5,000 on the trailer (500 tung max) although the truck's max trailer is 7,900. I could use the ability to haul that extra ton of material. Please offer up your WDH suggestions. I'm looking at a 10 day window. Thanks!

 

Vig--I've had a Reese setup with the friction anti-sway bar and it has worked very well for me with different trucks, although I haul nowhere near what you will. I've got almost the same truck (SCREW cab) minus the Timbrens and haul around 3200 pounds. Hitch and anti-sway bar keep everything firmly planted and the link adjustment on the chains are easy to use to keep truck and trailer level.

 

I've been running w/ the Reese set-up too pulling a 28' TT - 7,000lbs for about 20 years w/ no problems.

PK

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I was looking at their product and it looks like installation requires drilling into/through the a-frame yolk. Is this right? I was hoping to find something that didn't have to stay with one trailer. I have the occasional use of a 16' car carrier too so swapping it around is an option I'd like.

 

I have both an "Equal-I-Zer" & a "no name" hitch both serve me well as I go down the road. The "no name" uses chain bars where the "Equal-I-Zer" uses bars that fit into a clamp (no chain). They work no matter which one you by. Side note, I run a 22' flat bed 14K GVW with out WDH and have never had a problem even running with 10K+ on it. I do have the HD packages plus Trimbrens. Chris

 

On my TT, the Reese weight dist hardware is bolted to A-Frame - no drilling.
For the sway control bar, the ***** are welded.

PK

 

My Reese is also bolted to the trailer frame. The friction brake is simply part of the Reese assembly-no drilling.

 

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Okay, the way I read this is; one pinch bolt setup and one through bolt. Correct?

 

You may also want to look at the Reese Dual Cam sway control. It's the next step up from friction control ones. Lots of gory details about towing at rv.net RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing You'll find tons of info there about towing and what others have setup.

 

i've used a 16 foot dump behind my truck which came in at 15,300 and pulled it up and down pretty steep grades for 35 miles....without a wdh.....just something to think about regardless of what hitch you use...make sure you get a ball and ball mount rated for the same or more as your hitch....most reese ***** that are 2 5/16 are only rated to 6000lbs

 

A WDH is ONLY going to help with tongue weight, moving some of it forward to the front axle and thus allowing you to have more capability on the tongue.

It will not change the total trailer pulling weight capabilities of your truck.

 

Thanks to all for the information.

xciton, very important point to follow. I've always watch what I load and keep a few scale tickets from the dump so I know my tare at a few different fuel levels. In my case I'm looking at tongue weight with respect to the class III hitch that Ford states has a 500 Lb. max with out a WDH, 1,000 Lb. with one. The truck's max towing weight is 7,900 Lb. and the trailer is a 7,000 Lb capacity trailer. At max 7,000 x 15% = 1080 Lb tongue weight.

Another question regarding setting up the WDH. The truck has Timbren SES helpers on it. Will the Timbren SES fool with setting the hitch correctly?

 

Pretty impressive - is this with the stock class III? Just wondering how it sits with tounge weights that high pushing down on the hitch & rear axle. Was the front floating a little?

The more I look at alot of the dump trailers, the battery/utility box on the a-frame is right where the WDH brackets would attach - within 30" of the ball.

 

Reese, Draw-Tite, and Cequent are now all the same company. I use Reese w/d hitch with friction sway control and have had zero problems. Valley and Equa-lizer also good. Reese and Eqa-lizer have their roots in Elkhart, Indiana; which is the heart of the RV industry from its beginning. I pull a 7000 lb. car hauler. If I towed a 10000 or more trailer I would probably opt for the cam lock sway control. Just make your hitch and receiver is rated for what you tow or higher than what you tow.

 

I have the borrowed 7k dump hooked up. I've aquired a DrawTite 800lb trunion WDH with the proper ball and shank. Now here's the problem - the battery box on the tongue is right above where the brackets need to be.

Question - Do the brackets really need to be directly above the end of the spring bar? I'm hoping they can be located either fore or aft of the battery box. Anybody have an opinoin on this? If it can be, is one of the positions better than the other? Gotta figure this out, leaving in two days If I had time, I'd cut a piece of channel iron to bridge the battery box and hang the brackets above the bar ends.