Crunched the PSD! Question on body panels
#1
Crunched the PSD! Question on body panels
I didn't notice a pole and the right side of my truck from the passenger door to in front of the rear tire is seriously FUBAR'd. I have lines on some different cheap trucks and truck body parts to replace my bed and door with. Still not sure what to do with the extended cab. Will body parts from a 1989 truck drop onto mine without modification? How difficult is it to swap beds?
#2
I didn't notice a pole and the right side of my truck from the passenger door to in front of the rear tire is seriously FUBAR'd. I have lines on some different cheap trucks and truck body parts to replace my bed and door with. Still not sure what to do with the extended cab. Will body parts from a 1989 truck drop onto mine without modification? How difficult is it to swap beds?
I feel your pain, I hate dents!
OH, and the 89 bed I believe will fit!
#3
The bed bolts are like carriage bolts. There should be 6 nuts underneath. Good luck with those, if they're rusty they're probably stuck and the heads will turn in the bed. The bed will probably work, but the fender wells are different. The doors should work too, but it won't have the line on the bottom about 1/2 inch up from the bottom. Hope this helps.
Red
Red
#4
#5
Done this several times. All body panels interchange, BUT... 1980 to 1986 body lines (squared) are different than 1987 to 1997 body lines (rounded), AND 1987 to 1991 front end is different than 1992 to 1997 front end, ALSO the last years (1995 to 1997 I think) has the "extra" body line in the bottom of the door. The 1987 to 1997 beds of the same length are the same. 1980 to 1997 beds use a carrige type bolt dropped in from the tom & netted to the frame. 1999 up beds use Torx bolts from the top of bed bolting to an encapsulated nut clip on the frame. If the bolts start to "spin" heat the nuts w/ a torch (careful of the electric, brake & fuel lines) and zip them off w/ an impact gun, extension & swivel. If bolts still spin, cut flats on either side of the head and fit a wrench on head (a helper is needed) while you heat & zip from the bottom. DO NOT CUT A SLOT IN THE HEAD FOR A SCREWDRIVER IT DOESN"T WORK!!! Last resort do not cut off the heads as they won't go through the bed, weld bolts to bed (a nice tack) and zip off w/ heat.
The ext cab is the same just not positive about the ext cab window opening for using ea style's window for interchange. Post prev someone wanted to take a 92-97 style and rebody as a 80-86 style.
The ext cab is the same just not positive about the ext cab window opening for using ea style's window for interchange. Post prev someone wanted to take a 92-97 style and rebody as a 80-86 style.
#7
My truck was "totaled" in the view of my insurance company (USAA who have been a great company of the years to deal with). It was basically a banged up bed (dump truck + Jersey Wall = "banged up bed" Anyway they (USAA) determined that a new bed was 10K! so they totaled it. Long story short,I bought the truck back for $1,500 I got a utility bed. I miss the old bed that holds more but I enjoy the compartments and I can still pick up a stack on 4X8 sheets wood. I have tools, parts, clothes, fishing and "liquor cabinet". I am ready for what ever mess I find myself in.
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#8