points change now not starting 8ba flathead
#1
points change now not starting 8ba flathead
Having some issues after changing my points and its been a while since I changed points so I thought I would get some input on if I did something wrong.
I changed the points, condenser, and the vacuum module now my truck will not start. Its a 53 f100 v8 flathead 239 mostly stock and still 6v positive ground. The rotor and cap are only a month or two old and the wires and coil are about a year old. The truck has been running good but started getting a miss that kept getting worse so I knew it was time to start changing parts. The truck would start right up but would miss as you where getting more on it so it seemed like the vacuum module was going bad slowly.
I removed everything slowly then changed the vacuum module and installed the new one including the line. Installed a new condenser followed with hooking up the 2 wires to the new set of points. Installed the points and made sure the plate and little nub went into the hole and semi snugged it up. I then spun the motor some so the points where the highest point on the cam. Set the gap to .015 then tighten down the screws. Spun the motor some and watched the points open and close followed by checking the gap again. All seemed good so I put on the rotor and cap on lining up the notch in the cap.
Tried to fire it up and and the motor spins but not even a try to start. Pulled the cap checked the gap again and looked for anything I might have missed. Everything looks right but still nothing. I put the charger on the battery before I start anything else as I drained it trying to start it.
Any ideas on what I did wrong or what I missed?
I changed the points, condenser, and the vacuum module now my truck will not start. Its a 53 f100 v8 flathead 239 mostly stock and still 6v positive ground. The rotor and cap are only a month or two old and the wires and coil are about a year old. The truck has been running good but started getting a miss that kept getting worse so I knew it was time to start changing parts. The truck would start right up but would miss as you where getting more on it so it seemed like the vacuum module was going bad slowly.
I removed everything slowly then changed the vacuum module and installed the new one including the line. Installed a new condenser followed with hooking up the 2 wires to the new set of points. Installed the points and made sure the plate and little nub went into the hole and semi snugged it up. I then spun the motor some so the points where the highest point on the cam. Set the gap to .015 then tighten down the screws. Spun the motor some and watched the points open and close followed by checking the gap again. All seemed good so I put on the rotor and cap on lining up the notch in the cap.
Tried to fire it up and and the motor spins but not even a try to start. Pulled the cap checked the gap again and looked for anything I might have missed. Everything looks right but still nothing. I put the charger on the battery before I start anything else as I drained it trying to start it.
Any ideas on what I did wrong or what I missed?
#2
You may have a bad condenser. You can try installing the old one to test. Check that the ground wire has not come loose from the point plate. Make sure none of your wires are frayed and shorting out. Drag a piece of paper through the points to make sure there isn't anything small between the contacts preventing, well, contact.
You should be able to take the coil lead off the distributor cap and hold it next to the block. Turn the ignition on, and work the points with a screw driver between the distributor cam and rub block. If the coil doesn't fire, trouble shoot more. Pictures help too.
You should be able to take the coil lead off the distributor cap and hold it next to the block. Turn the ignition on, and work the points with a screw driver between the distributor cam and rub block. If the coil doesn't fire, trouble shoot more. Pictures help too.
#3
It's not uncommon for a set of points to get an invisible layer of corrosion on them while sitting on the shelf. Sometimes they have a light film of oil on them also. Either condition can easily cause a no spark or intermittent spark condition - especially with 6 volts. A 6 volt system won't tolerate any resistance at the points. 12 volt systems are much more forgiving in this area. Cleaning the points is easy. Rotate the engine until the points open and then give them a quick shot of brake parts cleaner. Alcohol works good also. After they dry, rotate them close again. Push the movable arm with your finger to open the points and slide a piece of 400 grit sandpaper between them. Let the moveable arm close and then slowly pull the sandpaper out. Do this about 3 or 4 times and then flip the paper over to polish the opposite point. It's quick and easy and works 90% of the time. I've gotten to where I do this every time I change them just as a matter of course.
If it still doesn't start, then I agree with 38 coupe. The condenser could be shorted to ground. Newer (cheaper) manufacturing techniques and poor quality control on chinese parts have made bad condensers right out of the box a pretty common problem. A real quick test for that is to disconnect the lead for the condenser completely and check the resistance between the lead and ground with an ohmmeter. If it immediately reads zero or near zero, then the condenser is shorted. If you don't have an ohmmeter (which you should!), then disconnect the condenser lead and try to start it. If it starts, then the condenser was shorted. Do NOT run it for long with the condenser disconnected, though, or you'll burn the points up. A few seconds won't hurt anything.
If it still doesn't start, then I agree with 38 coupe. The condenser could be shorted to ground. Newer (cheaper) manufacturing techniques and poor quality control on chinese parts have made bad condensers right out of the box a pretty common problem. A real quick test for that is to disconnect the lead for the condenser completely and check the resistance between the lead and ground with an ohmmeter. If it immediately reads zero or near zero, then the condenser is shorted. If you don't have an ohmmeter (which you should!), then disconnect the condenser lead and try to start it. If it starts, then the condenser was shorted. Do NOT run it for long with the condenser disconnected, though, or you'll burn the points up. A few seconds won't hurt anything.
#4
Im really thinking condenser on the back of my mind. I had 2 sets of points and 2 condensers one set is napa echlin I think and one set is advance auto crap. I went to install the points that where advance and the points where completly wrong not even close to being like the ones that where current. I used the advance condenser and napa points so I keep wondering if I should swap to the napa one or the original back to see.
#5
#6
Just for what its worth and I have seen this happen 4 times now, and one of those times happened to me.
Spark Plugs
We had a Truck on Movie location that ran excellent for the majority of the Filming. Over the weekend it was parked in a damp enviroment, and come Monday morn it just wouldn't start. I had a long time Ford Mechanic check it over we had the Carb apart twice, towed it down the road, put new Gas in it, still not firing.
Last winter my 47 Ford 8N was parked in a shed with a tin roof on it, condensation from the roof all over the Tractor. I put new Plugs in it the year before. Another Friend same issue, and another just recently.
Installed new Plugs and they all ran like they should. I would never had thought that was the problem. These new Plugs are not what they used to be. I now use NGK B6L in all my Flatheads.
We had a Truck on Movie location that ran excellent for the majority of the Filming. Over the weekend it was parked in a damp enviroment, and come Monday morn it just wouldn't start. I had a long time Ford Mechanic check it over we had the Carb apart twice, towed it down the road, put new Gas in it, still not firing.
Last winter my 47 Ford 8N was parked in a shed with a tin roof on it, condensation from the roof all over the Tractor. I put new Plugs in it the year before. Another Friend same issue, and another just recently.
Installed new Plugs and they all ran like they should. I would never had thought that was the problem. These new Plugs are not what they used to be. I now use NGK B6L in all my Flatheads.
#7
Were they Champion plugs? I could believe it. Out of the box at least one of the eight will be a dead player. Autolite 216's for me.
Anyone running 6v points should consider shucking the stock condenser type, and mounting one from Radio Shack. I've lost the specs but you can buy one with significantly better properties and materials for a buck or less.
Anyone running 6v points should consider shucking the stock condenser type, and mounting one from Radio Shack. I've lost the specs but you can buy one with significantly better properties and materials for a buck or less.
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#8
#10
I have NGK B6L's in it now and I fired it up and ran it for a few minutes before changing anything just an old habbit. It fred right up first hit of the starter button.
After changing points, condenser, and vacumm module now it spinds but not starting with the same plugs. Going to change the condenser and see but just been busy.
As a side note scored a great deal on the petronix ignitor, wires, and coil so after I get it running to check its right they are getting swapping in anyways.
After changing points, condenser, and vacumm module now it spinds but not starting with the same plugs. Going to change the condenser and see but just been busy.
As a side note scored a great deal on the petronix ignitor, wires, and coil so after I get it running to check its right they are getting swapping in anyways.
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