Spark Plug Question
#1
Spark Plug Question
What are you guys using for spark plugs? My '04 X has 92k and I'm going to replace the plugs and boots before winter. From what I've read so far in my searches is that most are using OEM but wondered if anyone is using Bosch plugs. I see they are offering a rebate, was thinking of going middle of the line(Platinum+2). I understand that performance and fuel economy will probably not be enhanced, but I'm just looking for reliability paired with low-cost.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#3
Interesting question ! When I was a kid running a service station in Los Angeles (mid 1950's) a car owner was pleased if he got 8,000 mi. out of a set of "plugs" before we had to pull them and clean them - with the onset of higher compression motors, cleaner oils and fuels, that went up and up.
What a comment about how much better things are these days from a reliability standpoint - anybody even SEEN a service station these days that offers more than fuel, & some foreigner selling fast food ? I have a standard shop spark plug "blaster" - left over from those days, which I use to clean my airplane's spark plugs ( aviation tech. is back in the 1950's, so that is right at home ) most young folks look at it and cant figure out what it is for..!
My EX gasser now has 40,000 mi., - not so much as a puff or wheez, so "if it aint broke dont fix it"....! O.K. - so 40,000 mi is kid stuff for some of you guys ? My 2001 Toyota RAV 4 (with a similar ignition system) now has 134,000 mi. on its original plugs, which I have never touched - heck, not even sure where they are....!).
So - when do modern plugs go bad ? If EVER ?
#4
Sarcastically thanking Stewart for his reply ;~)
6686L - I totally understand where you are coming from, in fact, I did consider running it through the winter this year, but since I just bought the X last month, am not really sure if the previous owner did any maintenance and since it will be what all of my "eggs" will be riding in everyday back and forth to school, I would hate for something to go wrong in the heart of a Michigan winter. I was always taught, "better safe than sorry", I tend to learn the hard way, but when it comes down to the wife & kids, I'll not spare the expense.
6686L - I totally understand where you are coming from, in fact, I did consider running it through the winter this year, but since I just bought the X last month, am not really sure if the previous owner did any maintenance and since it will be what all of my "eggs" will be riding in everyday back and forth to school, I would hate for something to go wrong in the heart of a Michigan winter. I was always taught, "better safe than sorry", I tend to learn the hard way, but when it comes down to the wife & kids, I'll not spare the expense.
#5
Modern plugs go bad around 100-120K DEPENDING on the type. Galvanic corrosion is more of an issue than the electrodes wearing down though thanks to dissimilar metals.
I've not heard many good things about Bosch and some Ford engines. I don't mean to perpetuate a myth in the event it does exist but I would just stick to Motorcraft plugs or Autolites (who make Motorcraft).
I don't think you need to replace all the COPs either. Maybe buy one or two as spares. Unless you know you have a problem. I would, however, replace all the boots since you tend to lean towards "better safe than sorry".
I've not heard many good things about Bosch and some Ford engines. I don't mean to perpetuate a myth in the event it does exist but I would just stick to Motorcraft plugs or Autolites (who make Motorcraft).
I don't think you need to replace all the COPs either. Maybe buy one or two as spares. Unless you know you have a problem. I would, however, replace all the boots since you tend to lean towards "better safe than sorry".
#7
The original plugs are typically rated for 100k miles and as Monsta stated you can have multiple reasons for a plug to not operate at 100%. As plugs get older the electrodes do wear, you can get buildup on the tips and the ceramic casing can become brittle. This is all in addition to the electrolysis which can cause the plug to become 'stuck' in the head. I've seen the non Motorcraft/Autolite issues in multiple Ford engines and now will only install those plugs vs. NGKs, AC or Bosch plugs which folks sometime ask for. Definitely replace the boots and the springs - use a good dielectric grease when reinstalling and a touch of anti-seize on the plug threads is also a good idea. The Autolite Double Platinum plugs have worked very well in various vehicles I've worked on in my shop.
Just for a comparison - I installed NGK V Power plugs in mine and have a bit of a rough idle coming in with just 6k miles on the plugs. I did it as an experiment to see how they would perform in my vehicle after seeing non Motorcraft/Autolite plugs not perform well in customer's engines. I've thought about trying the new E3 plugs as well - not to waste the money but when people ask what I think I like to have an informed opinion.
Anyone install E3 or Iridium plugs in their 5.4 or 6.8? Any differences noticed?
Just for a comparison - I installed NGK V Power plugs in mine and have a bit of a rough idle coming in with just 6k miles on the plugs. I did it as an experiment to see how they would perform in my vehicle after seeing non Motorcraft/Autolite plugs not perform well in customer's engines. I've thought about trying the new E3 plugs as well - not to waste the money but when people ask what I think I like to have an informed opinion.
Anyone install E3 or Iridium plugs in their 5.4 or 6.8? Any differences noticed?
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#8
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Dan, your plugs, cops, or boots won't leave you stranded anywhere, ever, it would be like getting 2 flat tires at the same time; it doesn't happen. OP; Your plugs may last a ton of miles but it doesn't mean they are performing well when it comes to gas mileage and power, also they will decompose like Monsta said over a period of time due to heat, moisture, contaminants, etc, and will raise the chance of breaking and jamming in your head.
#9
#10
I replaced mine with Autolite Platiumn purchased at Walmart for 2.49 each. Works as good as the orginials.
If you don't think the electrods don't wear on the plugs just pull one and look at it.
When I removed my plugs the wear factor was nearly 20 thousands.
Also I would advise you to replace the boots or at least the last two on each cylinder bank.
Use anti-seize compound on the threads of the plugs. It took me about 3 hours and 45 minutes to do mine.
If you don't think the electrods don't wear on the plugs just pull one and look at it.
When I removed my plugs the wear factor was nearly 20 thousands.
Also I would advise you to replace the boots or at least the last two on each cylinder bank.
Use anti-seize compound on the threads of the plugs. It took me about 3 hours and 45 minutes to do mine.
#11
Thanks for the replies, I've read plenty of posts in my searches on how to replace the plugs and thanks for the reminders on cleaning dirt out. I know it won't strand them anywhere, like stated, two flat tires? Just doesn't happen. I'm just looking for the best economy, performance, reliability and price. I'll probably stick with Motorcraft/Autolite.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#12
Go with the stock Motorcraft plugs. I have a 95 ranger and I changed the plugs at 190k and they were way past due. The gap was about 1/4" wide. The 4 cylinder has two plugs per cylinder so I was not worried too much. The truck runs better with the new plugs buy my miliage actually dropped. Motorcraft plugs came out and that is what went back in. It is probably not a bad idea to change them since they are in aluminum and you don't want them to corrode in there and ruin a thread when you pull them out. I have also heard that you don't want to let the gap get wide with the COP coils since the insulation will break down.
Perry
Perry
#13
Spark Plug Question
I changed my plugs at 99k with Motorcraft, stock heat range. Before the change the truck ran very good, it did not give any symptoms of needing plugs. I changed plugs and cleaned the boots, coated them with dielectric grease. I did notice the old plugs had approximately the correct gap but the electrodes were slighly rounded and 4 of the plugs on the passenger side had a white cyrstaline substance on them (usually caused by oil, fuel type, or short trips). Since the other 6 did not show this substance and I noticed the PCV was very oily, I changed it. The new one is a different color so it may have had some change to it. With these new parts the engine stopped using oil (so far) and is much, much smoother. The economy slightly improved (.2-.3 mpg). Hope this helps.
#15