I'm in the process of removing the emissions equipment from my '82 F150 with a 351W, and would appreciate any guidance you might have.

The truck originally had the DS III/EEC combo, but has now been converted to DS II as well as a very basic 2150 carb - so basic it doesn't even have the idle speed solenoid. It runs well on the highway (13 mpg on the highway yesterday), but still has a miss at idle that I think is probably due to a vacuum leak - especially since the compression test shows all cylinders in fairly good shape. So, I'm pulling all the extraneous "stuff" under the hood to get back to basic, and will replace all vacuum hoses that remain.

Here are some of my many questions:

AIR: I removed the pump, but want to remove the tube going to the cat as well as the one to the back of the heads. Any suggestions on how to plug each of those?

EGR Valve: I've read that I'll need the EGR valve or I'll have a knock on the highway. However, this carb shows to have been for a 460 which may have been for a truck w/o emissions, so may be jetted for use w/o EGR. Anyone know about this?

EGR Heat Exchanger: There's what looks to be a heat exchanger between the EGR valve and the intake manifold since it has hoses connecting to the heater hose on one end and the back of the intake manifold on the other. Is this to reduce the temp of the exhaust gas? How badly needed?

Wiring: I have unused wiring connectors all over the engine compartment after removing the components. What's the best way of cleaning this up - unravel the outside electrical tape and put out each of the smaller wiring bundles?

Vacuum Reservoir: I have two vacuum reservoirs: one globe-shaped one that I assume is for the heater controls, and one ribbed one just behind the battery. Is this one to ensure vacuum for the brakes if the engine fails? Or?

Tnx,
Gary

 

Pull everything until you can see an engine, install Holley, tune, drive. Enjoy better MPG and smoother running.

That carb is not from a 460, no 460 came with a 2 barrel.Just pick up a 4v intake either new or used ebay/Craigslist and a Holley 600 or 650 and call it a day. Make sure you plug all emissions holes. Only vacuum you should have is manifold to power brakes and ported to vacuum advance. If it's an air condition truck you may need manifold to firewall/under dash for heater controls.

 

I think the holes in the back of the head can be plugged with a 5/8 bolt.

 

Ok, I've pulled everything not absolutely required - except that I'm leaving the EGR valve until I get it running right and determine if I need the EGR or not. Any input on the need for the cooler?

I've plugged the holes in the back of the head with shortened 5/8-11 bolts, and have cut the AIR tube to the cat and will braze it shut. Not sure about pulling the O2 sensor as I don't know how to plug that hole. Does it screw in?

And, I'm pulling the tape/covering to the wiring harness so I can remove the 13 unused connectors that are littering the top of the engine. Will go back with either wire loom or tape, depending.

On the vacuum, I plan to retain the vapor recovery system, so will have it to plumb, and I'll have vacuum to the EGR until I decide whether to retain it. Also, there the cruise control - which is what the vacuum canister appears to be for, btw.

Gary

 

I just had a question about this topic can you not just buy a non egr aftermarket Intake and a Holley and get rid the emissions altogether without having to plug this and cap that? I have a 84 f150 that someone replaced the 302 with a 351w. Intake is still original but all emissions plumbing removed egr still in place but no vacuum line,smog pump removed,heat riser vacuum that bolts on the right side of carb and goes into intake still there no vacuum lines to it,vacuum rectangular box left side of radiator still there only line attached is a small vent line to gas tank I guess, large port removed.I was thinking of just buying a non-egr intake and installing it and just using the vacuum for a/c, brake booster(no CC) and vacuum advance.Does this seem like the best solution to just get that intake then leaving all those items in place without being connected? I replaced exhaust headers(Exhaust was not installed properly and headers cracked at tube welds due to exhaust being bolted solid to frame.I installed new headers/complete exhaust system.Now that I could hear engine I R/R plugs/wires/cap/rotor.Runs smooth but just doesn't get up and go like It should.No vacume leaks and I think the carb is a huge issue being it sat for years on end. With someone going on a emissions rampage I wondered if I should just replace intake too with a non emissions/egr intake?Any advice would be appreciated also.I am not looking to hot rod , burn tires,mud bog or rip around like a P.W. teen.I just want to get rid of crap if its not working or going to be used like egr or vacuum operated items which arnt hooked up.I am looking for maybe a 600cfm holley and not sure which intake being its a emissions/egr engine.I am not looking for any rpms revs over 4-5k.Just the normal adult truck driven truck maybe pulling a boat and pontoon, lawn mower or a few dirt bikes for the kids.Also if I went with a non egr emissions intake what should base time be set at then.

 

Tryduck,
What is the problem you are trying to solve? If it is to get more power, then a different intake/carb should help. But, if it is to get rid of all the stuff that's still in place but not connected, then it won't help as the intake manifold has little to do with that.

Having said that, maybe we'd better know more about your truck. What ignition module does it have? Does it have a computer, and is it still connected? If so you may have the worst of all worlds.

 

Well I guess what I want to do is get rid of items that are not in use sorta.Truck runs great now that I have tuned it up other then carb needing rebuilt/replaced.I just wanted to know if its better to just change intake to a aftermarket one that is a non egr/emmisons?Reason I am asking is because it has been all disconnected off this 5.8L . the egr is there but unplugged , air pump removed , air canister unpluged ,Convertors removed , I replaced headers (old headers were busted at tube welds) but know engine came with manifolds and a Cat system.This model has no computer other then the duraspark system.If that is what your calling the "computer" but I think it is just the ignition system.It appears that engine was removed out of same type/year truck only had the 5.8L option, mine being a 5.0L model.It has no computer that controls engine emissisons or the transmisson.I purchased truck in this shape and it was running like crap with major exhaust issues.I have tuned up and replaced headers and exhaust.I am redoing complete front end but that is nothing to do with my question.I wanted to just know that being the convertors have been removed , none of the emissons hooked up or working, should I just remove the this intake or is it fine letting these devices hooked to intake without them in use.I am not looking for more power , truck has plenty as it is.I am replacing the carb as it has set for several years with fuel in the bowl and just doesnt have the response it should have , sorta dead cut out or dead spots while accelerating.I have rebuilt a few carbs and rather just replace it so truck isnt just sitting with carb in peices while I find the time to rebuild it.I just wanted to make sure not using the egr isnt going to cause carbon build up inside the intake and plugging ports up in the future if its not being used.I know there is the egr and hear riser valve that are there but unplugged.All the vacume lines have been removed.I am not looking for anymore power and just maybe opioins as to replace intake with a non emmisons/egr intake.I just am not sure if putting a non egr/emmisson intake on a engine that is meant to have a emissons/egr intake will be a good move.I dont want to loose power due to putting on a incompatable intake on so to speak.Would it better maybe to bring the egr back into the system and use it and the heat riser ? If Egr is defective I dont have a issue replacing it, havent tested it yet just figured it was disconnected for a reason.I would need to know where the egr supply goes to but that is minor information I could look up.

 

Tryduck,
Have you checked under the driver's seat to see if there's a computer? My '82 had one so your's may. But, if it is a Duraspark II, then the computer isn't really controlling things, even if it is there.

Anyway, if your truck is running well with all the smog stuff disconnected then I would recommend removing it. Assuming yours is similar to mine, here's what you can do:

EGR: Since yours is disconnected, you can buy a plate to block it off. Or, if you go with an aftermarket intake you can get one that doesn't have EGR provisions.

AIR tubing: Mine had a tube coming up from the cat to a valve on the passenger's side of the engine. From there a hose when back to a tube that attached to the back of both heads. And, a hose when forward to the AIR pump - which I removed. I cut the tube just above the cat and will crimp it and then braze it shut. And, I removed the tube from the back of the heads and closed the holes up with a 5/8" bolt into each head.

Extraneous connectors: Since I had a computer I had 13 connectors to things like the feedback carb, which had been replaced, manifold pressure sensor, water temp sensor, ect. If you have a computer then you probably have all those connectors as well. If you do, get back with me about how to remove them.

Good luck!

 

Ok no I haven't looked under the seat as of yet, From what I see everything is operated off vacuum and water temperature , there are no extra connectors on engine.Looking at the emissions/vacuum sticker it appears everything is operated off block temp and vacuum.there are no extra connectors from the engine harness and appears to be untouched factory loom.I see that the electric choke wire has been spliced to the alternator but that is how it is supposed to be run , Just looks like they cut wire from donor truck harness.I don't see any other devices/solenoids/evr vales/map sensors/crank or cam sensors.Just the vacuum advance Distributor with the pickup and the duraspark ign box.I believe it is the duraspark I Ign sys.There is a vacuum T for the factory a/c and the vacuum ball but that's all.The engine has nothing that bolted or installed that gives the hint there are missing electrical connections either , as wells as the exhaust doesn't have any connectors for O2 sensors. I did not check the backs of the heads yet for the exhaust tubes but betting they are plugged off.Carb has nothing electrically operated other then the choke either.May just have to speak with the seller about engine swap from 5.0 to 5.8 and what has been removed.The main thing is that I don't run into issue using a non egr/emissions intake on a egr/emissons engine. Short or long term problems are something I want to avoid if at all possible.I just see no reason why they would put a computer on this truck as it would control nothing , there is no CEL or Emissions Light on dash or bezel either.I will check for computer tomorrow and stop buy sellers home for some information.

 

Gary,
Are these holes already tapped for 5/8" bolts or do you need to tap a thread into them?

My truck is ex Ca. - also 351W, EEC III & feedback carb like yours had. Right now the emissions gear is all working fine but when it does give me any trouble, it's all coming out.
Have you disconnected your emission solenoids already (on top of the rocker covers), if so, did that cause any complications with the computer etc?

 

Ken,
My understanding is that all the heads have tapped holes - at least mine were. At least mine did. I used short (1/2"ish) bolts with washers and high-temp sealer. No leaks so far.

As for the relays, my system was effectively inoperable, so unplugging them and later removing them had no effect whatever. But, if yours are still operating YMMV.

 

Gary, how has that held up over the years or did you change/improve the solution along the way?

I figured while I have my valve covers off, I would delete the tubes at the heads while I can reach it easily. The system been long gone except the metal tubes.

TIA

 

Deleted did not see it was a necro thread.

 

Has held up fine. But if I was doing it again I'd consider using a copper washer if I could find one that big at the parts store.

 

Thank you, Sir! Good to know.