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Power Window Motor Repair

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  #16  
Old 11-09-2011, 12:09 PM
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Well it goes up fast in the summer, and slow in the winter, if that means anything...
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2011, 12:29 PM
greywynd greywynd is offline
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LOL!! Chances are you need to just take it apart, and freshen up the grease in the gearbox then. The old grease will be stiff in the cold weather, and if you use something that is more cold temp resistant (maybe a white lithium grease) it should be better. I always just use a general purpose grease, and know that they will be running a bit slower in winter.
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2011, 12:43 PM
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I figured it needed some maintenance, it's faster going up if I like pull on it while it's going up.... Always get chuckles from friends and families when doing it. Though summer smooth as silk. I have gen purpose grease i was using on my tie rods, will that work, or pick up something else?
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2013, 03:57 PM
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Hey WarOzz - thanks for the pictures and info on the motor repair. Both of my electric windows decided to have troubles going up and down. Followed your detailed procedures and everything is working good now. I was getting ready to go with new motors when I found your message - good work - passenger side first - cleaned up old grease and plastic scrap, 6 1/4 nuts, new grease and going good - have to make certain no-one gets arms or neck in windows when going up.



"95 F350 7.3L, super cab, 2wd, dually, 122,225 miles

Last edited by melgu; 03-18-2013 at 04:02 PM. Reason: added truck information
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  #20  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:27 PM
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I replaced the disintegrated plastic thingies with 3 each 3/8" stainless steel ball bearings - works great.
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  #21  
Old 04-25-2013, 07:57 AM
drs1023 drs1023 is offline
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We're sort of a Ford family, and over the last year, I have replaced both electric motors and regulators in my '91 F-350 (7.3), 1 in my dad's '89 F-250 (7.3), and 1 in one son's '02 SportTrac. I have another one to install in my dad's passenger side this weekend.

At some point, I feel it's easier to just replace the entire assembly. I tried cleaning and lubing my driver's window a year ago. After the work, it still wouldn't raise the window consistently - too much drag on a 20+ year old motor. I've bought all the replacements from AM-Autoparts (eBay seller) - all for much less money than the local big box auto parts stores. And they seem to get cheaper every time I buy them. The first one was almost $60 complete, and the one I got in this week for dad's truck was $48 delivered.
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  #22  
Old 04-28-2013, 02:51 PM
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mechelement mechelement is offline
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I put two new assemblies in my '86 3 or so years ago and my driver's side started to be flaky when warm outside. If it had been parked in the sun all day, it took a couple of minutes driving to get it to work again. Now it won't work at all. I can hear draw when I engage the up or down switch, but nothing else. I'm not sure if I should bother pulling it apart, or just get a new assembly. Every time I snake my arm through that speaker hole to align the window motor, there's blood.
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  #23  
Old 04-28-2013, 04:10 PM
drs1023 drs1023 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechelement View Post
I put two new assemblies in my '86 3 or so years ago and my driver's side started to be flaky when warm outside. If it had been parked in the sun all day, it took a couple of minutes driving to get it to work again. Now it won't work at all. I can hear draw when I engage the up or down switch, but nothing else. I'm not sure if I should bother pulling it apart, or just get a new assembly. Every time I snake my arm through that speaker hole to align the window motor, there's blood.
I see what you mean. Another repair-another scar!
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  #24  
Old 06-04-2013, 11:40 AM
kwiggs66 kwiggs66 is offline
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Thumbs up GREAT DETAIL! WORKS PERFECTLY!!!

I was looking into buying new regulator\motor assembly thinking that one or both were bad. Found this link and finished my driver door in less than an hour! Had to start work, so couldn't do the passenger side yet...but am looking forward to having two working windows again. The best part...I already had the Nuts, so it cost me NOTHING!!! Thanks!!!!!!!
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  #25  
Old 06-04-2013, 04:02 PM
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Did this on my 89, used the dorman help plugs and some bearing grease, probably one of the easiest and cheapest fixes you can do. the PO butchered the inside of my passenger side door trying to get the old motor out, so I gotta fix that now. If someone wants to use nylon bushings, 1/2 diameter ones can be filed slightly and used just as well.
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  #26  
Old 06-23-2013, 10:40 PM
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Love this site, so much information.. My old '93 F250 4x4 just started with the driver's window slipping.. must be the pins... going to do the 1/4 in nut repair... Thanks for a great article, and fine photos...

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  #27  
Old 07-23-2013, 01:53 AM
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This thread helped me with my 1994 Grand Marquis. I joined this forum just so I can share a small modification to the suggested repair. I was not comfortable using steel nuts in the plastic gear so I got the idea of using 1/4 inch nylon nuts instead. I threaded and tightened the two nuts onto a nylon bolt, then cut off the ends so I had just the two nuts with the bolt shaft inside. I used a small flame (Bic lighter) to somewhat melt them together (probably unnecessary). This all made assembly much easier, won't chew up the plastic, retains some of the safely feature (the plastic should break before it cuts an arm off), cheaper than Dorman, and doesn't need shaping if 1/2 inch nylon rod were used.
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  #28  
Old 07-23-2013, 08:36 AM
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Another FWIW, you obviously need to drill out those two holes for access to the two mounting bolts behind them, but there's no need to cut that slot on the right, there is plenty of room to easily get to that bolt with a hand wrench though the large access port.
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  #29  
Old 07-23-2013, 07:24 PM
Macrobb Macrobb is offline
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I should post pictures of my own. I just replaced my failing motor with another, slightly less failing unit(brushes are shot on both; got some on order).
Using an angle-grinder, I ground off the 3/4 rivet heads, knocked the rivet through. Once the whole assembly was loose, I wiggled it out the upper opening in the door(Note, you have to jam the window shut to get enough clearance).
I then proceeded to weld 3 1/4-20 nuts to the back of the bracket on the new window motor assy, wiggled it into place, reattached the window and bolted it back in.
Now, it;s easy to remove/replace; just take out a couple of bolts. No pesky rivets!
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  #30  
Old 10-17-2013, 07:45 PM
JuanitaBee JuanitaBee is offline
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Thanks for the info & instructions. I attempted this repair a couple of days ago on the passenger side of my '89 F-150. Sadly, I couldn't complete it because the plastic piece that the dowels go into was also broken, as was the plastic wheel that strikes against the dowels. I ended up putting in a used motor from the salvage yard, then discovered I could have bought the whole new gear assembly for $18 at Auto Zone. Much cheaper than buying a new motor & also cheaper than what I got from the salvage yard. They wouldn't sell me just the motor - I had to buy the whole assembly & then take the motor off. That was $25. Oh well, we live & learn. At least my window works again & I learned a lot from the experience.

FYI - I've had my truck since it was new & never had any problems with the windows until I tried using one of those solar window fans. The fan worked great but not being able to roll the window all the way up apparently triggered the safety feature. It's good to know the safety feature works, but I wish I'd known the fan would trigger it. My other window is still working great.

Last edited by JuanitaBee; 10-17-2013 at 08:03 PM. Reason: additional information
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