My truck has never left me stranded in the two years I have owned her, until today. This morning she started right up then died after about three seconds. Cranked a little bit and pushed on the pedal and she started again and drove fine. I got home and went to leave again, cranks forever but wont start.

What I have checked so far:
-HPOP oil level is full
-Tach moves when cranking
-No CEL
-Wait to start light comes on
-Injectors have 72psi before and during cranking
-All fuses are good
-Oil level is where it should be on the dipstick but looks pretty thin, only have 2,000 miles since last oil change

The power has been lower than normal lately and my fuel mileage is way lower than it used to be, it has been this way for about three weeks. Could injector o-rings cause a no start issue? Any help is appreciated.

Also, I am not sure if there is smoke coming from the tailpipe when I crank, the exhaust dumps under the truck so I can not see that. Now I really wish I had stacks lol.

 

Wag but I've seen a few on here lately with water in the idm. Take it off and shake it, quick easy check anyway.

 

I will check that out tomorrow, I have got to go get another vehicle from my parents house to get around. I will be getting back under the hood tomorrow. Thanks for the response

 

How did it die the first time? Sputter any or just like the key was shut off? If you crank for 25 seconds you should see some sign of smoke no matter where your exhaust dumps. If the injectors are trying to fire, it will generate enough smoke you'll see it somewhere.

 

When it died the first time it was instant, just like shutting the key off. I will try to crank her again when I get home this afternoon and let ya'll know if there is smoke.

 

Okay just had my buddy crank the truck, absolutely no smoke comes out of the tailpipe. It also turns over really rough

 

After reading some past threads I am thinking it is am HPOP issue. I do not have a scanner, is there any other way to check the high pressure oil while cranking?

 

Cutting off like the key sounds electrical. Did you check each fuse with a meter? Try swapping relays around?

Try unplugging the ICP sensor to see if that helps. Check the IPR to see if the nut fell off the back. Try removing the chip? Did the chip come loose? Might also need to check your IDM and see if the 140 mod came unsoldered.

 

I just got mine going tonight after having the same problem. It turned out to be the plug to the IPR. The plug is right under the filter pressure switch which developed a leak last year. Well all the plug insulating rubber was gone and the wires were making contact. I cleaned everything up separated the wires and filled the plug end with The Right Stuff RTV. I also pulled the IPR and disassembled it. Cleaned everything up and put it all back together. It started up and after a little bit at soothed out and ran great. PK

 

Had the same prob w/ mine. Went to get in it to go to work and it cranked and didn't start. Turned out my computer went out. Got a re-man computer and after the 2nd one runs good.

 

I have a 96 had the same thing happen.truck was 1/2 in and out of the shop and nothing.replaced the CPS didn't fire right offthe first time second time it fired ran all week 1000 miles worth.on the way home(2 miles from the house ) she died refused to start.got a tow home took a little gas on a rag and it poped off. checked all the plugs and sensors HPOP,all was good took the IDM (I DEMAND MONEY)out . shlish slosh water in the box. opened it up looked like there had been about 3/4" of water in it for a long time.ford was the only one with 1 in stock bit the bullet and got it.pluged it in and runs best it ever has.

 

I did check each one with a meter. The only one that questions me is maxi #20 under the hood. It ohms at 3.5 when all the rest ohm at 0.4, I changed it and it still ohms at 3.5.

I just tried to unplug the ICP but she still would not start. I also checked the IPR tin nut, screwed on tight and the wiring connection is clean. The chip I have is actually just a PCM flashing, I sent it off and they flashed it to the one code I wanted. Could it possibly be a bad PCM?

When I am cranking the motor over the tach only reads 100 rpm or so but it is turning over just as fast as it always has.

 

I pulled the IDM and she is dry as a bone. I guess it is possible that it went bad from something else but I want to be positive before buying one.

 

Just put in a new CPS for S&G's but the batts were dead. Charging them now, will let yall know if it starts.

 

Well the batteries were fully charged so I tried again with the new CPS, spun over like a top but wouldnt fire.

I pulled the IDM again but popped off the cover this time, it is dry as a bone and the resistor is still soldered on. Does anyone know what else I can check before I tow it to the shop?