Lug Nut Differences F250, F350 DRW, and F350 SRW
#16
Looking for stock 2 piece integral locking lug nuts for dually wheels.
I have aquired a set of stock steel 1990 Ford dually wheels for my 1970 F350 dually. There is a tag on the inside of the wheels that says "only use two piece integral locking lug nuts because tapered lug nuts may come loose on these type of wheels. The wheels I have now on my 1970 are the split rim coined dually wheels which have the tapered "acorn" lug nuts. For obvious reasons, that is why I am replacing them with the later 1990 tubeless models. Sinse I cant use my old lug nuts, I was wondering where I can get a set (32) that I can use with the 1990 Ford dually wheels? The 1990 wheels are not the coined type nor do they have the lug holes countersunk. Will the 1990 two piece integral locking lug nuts be the same stud size sinse my 1970 F350 has a Dana 70 rearend?
Thanks for your help!
-Roy
Thanks for your help!
-Roy
#17
The '90 dually has a Sterling rear axle, not a D70. However, if the studs are the same as those on the D70, then you'd have absolutely no problems using the '90 two-piece lugnuts. The full-float Sterling axle, whether SRW or dually, uses 9/16" studs, what does your D70 have?
Also, something else to consider - the coined wheels are lug-piloted, meaning when you tighten them down they center themselves on the axle cause the cone part of lugnuts "straighten" them on as you keep tightening, whereas the Sterling axle your '90 wheels came from is hub-piloted meaning the wheel centers on the axle by fitting very tight onto the hub that sticks out. If you install hub-piloted wheels on an axle that's designed for lug-piloted wheels and has a smaller hub diameter you will have a hard time centering the wheels, it can be done but you'll need at least one helper, maybe two.
To confirm all this please measure the diameter of your D70 lugs and also the diameter of the center opening of both a '90 dually wheel and a '70 dually wheel, and report back to us.
Also, for what it's worth, Dodge dually trucks kept using the coined setup on their D70 axles all the way to the early '90s, and these are 16" one-piece wheels and not the split ones you have...
Also, something else to consider - the coined wheels are lug-piloted, meaning when you tighten them down they center themselves on the axle cause the cone part of lugnuts "straighten" them on as you keep tightening, whereas the Sterling axle your '90 wheels came from is hub-piloted meaning the wheel centers on the axle by fitting very tight onto the hub that sticks out. If you install hub-piloted wheels on an axle that's designed for lug-piloted wheels and has a smaller hub diameter you will have a hard time centering the wheels, it can be done but you'll need at least one helper, maybe two.
To confirm all this please measure the diameter of your D70 lugs and also the diameter of the center opening of both a '90 dually wheel and a '70 dually wheel, and report back to us.
Also, for what it's worth, Dodge dually trucks kept using the coined setup on their D70 axles all the way to the early '90s, and these are 16" one-piece wheels and not the split ones you have...
#18
#20
Not sure on the dodge wheels, the W350 dually that I have in mind has coined wheels like the older trucks but its lugnuts look just like the Ford two-piece design only they are one piece, meaning that wide flange that contacts the wheel is machined as part of the actual lug nut. Can't see why he couldn't run the two-piece Ford lugnuts with them dodge wheels, they look like they'd fit just fine...
#22
#23
well what I did was turn the wheel around, on the back of the wheel was a smooth mounting surface for the washer nuts to work, keep in mind my truck is set up to spray farmers crops for weeds, bugs ect {will post a pic soon} so by doing this it gave me a wider stance and believe it or not it lined my rear tires up better with my fronts as I need that to get down corn rows without running over corn,, idk there staying tight and I like the radial tire switching from a 1400 x 17.5 tire to 315 75 R 16 a more narrow tire is working fine and havent been stuck yet
#26
Do those nuts have a taper on the end that's supposed to go into the taper on the wheel?
If not, I'd say you're fine.
If so(like my lugnuts), I'd get a 3/4" 90deg countersink, stick it in a drill and countersink the lug holes on the back of the tires so you have a bit of a taper for the lugnuts to sit in.
If not, I'd say you're fine.
If so(like my lugnuts), I'd get a 3/4" 90deg countersink, stick it in a drill and countersink the lug holes on the back of the tires so you have a bit of a taper for the lugnuts to sit in.
#27
#28
Thank you for starting and contributing!
#29
And just to add to this old thread, I just picked up 32 9/16-18 7/8" diameter closed-end, chrome lug nuts from Amazon for less than $40. Made in the US, and none of them has a scratch after installation. I was pretty sure at that price that there would be some marring from the impact socket before torquing by hand, but they all came through without a scratch. Way better deal than NAPA or any of the auto parts stores.
#30