Hey Guys,

Went ahead and picked up a fuel pressure update as suggested while doing my EGR delete and I have some questions. I have a black plastic piece that came in the kit with 4 groves in it. My housing actually has the groves in it already. There are also differences in the brass spring seat seal. The OEM is tapered and the update is flat. Not sure which to use here. I assume I can use the new regulator cover that came with the kit and just replace the spring into the OEM brass spring seat and be good to go. Not sure if I really needed this kit or not, hoping you guys know what to do from here. Please check out the pics and you'll see what I mean.

thanks

 

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I would use ALL the pieces that came in the kit for the upgrade. They put them in there for a reason. There may be slight differences that are not readily visible to the naked eye.

 

The black plastic piece will not fit into the OEM housing, not even close to fitting. I assume the older models used this. The brass spring seat and spring was all that was in my OEM housing. It didn't have a plastic piece in it. I guess at this point its just a question of using the new brass spring seat and blue spring or the old seat and blue spring.

 

I'm going to hazard a guess that this kit is designed to go into more than one engine. I haven't looked closely enough at it yet, but the 6.0L shares a similar upper fuel filter housing/regulator assembly with the International version of this engine, the 6 cylinder International version of this engine, and possibly the 6.4L engine. So it's possible some of the extra parts are for different engines.

This is the question I'm going to have when I do mine. I have all the parts, I just haven't had the time to do it when it's cool enough to work outside.

 

do not use the black part. that is for early build housings. use the brass plunger, the spring and the cover, and the needed gaskets to complete.

 

The new plunger with the flat seal?

 

I missed that in the first pic.
the pic of your brass plunger that came out of the filter housiing was misinstalled and is on upside down. that will cause low fuel pressure too.
so yes use the one with the flat gasket.

 

Hmm, that's interesting. Thanks cheezit!!

 

yup no problem

 

by chance know what to torque the cover bolts to? It didn't say in the service manual that I could find. Also need to know the torque on the return line adapter fitting that screws into the cover. Service manual says 32 ft lbs for the line but nothing about the adapter.

 

never bother to torque them sorry. Be carefull because its an aluminum housing.

 

One last question for you. I drained the oil before removing the oil cooler housing. Is it normal for the oil cooler valley to still be full of oil? Just assumed it would drain with the rest of the oil.

 

yes that is the sump for the high pressure pump. you can either drain that by scooping it out or by removing the high pressure pump.
If I had the intake off I would be putting on the stc fitting at this time as well if you dont have the updated part already installed.

 

Yes I'm doing the stc fitting next. From the sound of it I should have done that first. Waiting for the IPR valve socket to come in and I didn't want to waste the whole weekend not doing anything on it. Should I fill the valley back up with oil before I reinstall the oil cooler or just let it take care of itself when I fill the engine back up with oil?