Best way to get 250-300 horsepower
#1
Best way to get 250-300 horsepower
I just recently got a rebuilt 1970 300 I6 and I really want to wake this thing up. I would really like to get about 250-300 horsepower. What is the best way to do this without breaking the bank?
Also, I'm puttin this in the place of a 262. Is there something out there that allows me to hook my throttle cable to my carb do to manifolds being swiched around? Thanks for your help.
Also, I'm puttin this in the place of a 262. Is there something out there that allows me to hook my throttle cable to my carb do to manifolds being swiched around? Thanks for your help.
#2
#3
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...0-i-6-a-3.html
Scroll down in that thread and you find what it takes to get 300 hp out of a 300.
It depends on how big your bank is whether it breaks or not.
"Research is the key." There are several hundred pages on this Forum plus more here: FORDSIX PERFORMANCE • View forum - 240-300 "Big Block" Six Performance
Gather up some snacks and drinks, sit back and read and take notes. Plan a plan then work the plan.
Scroll down in that thread and you find what it takes to get 300 hp out of a 300.
It depends on how big your bank is whether it breaks or not.
"Research is the key." There are several hundred pages on this Forum plus more here: FORDSIX PERFORMANCE • View forum - 240-300 "Big Block" Six Performance
Gather up some snacks and drinks, sit back and read and take notes. Plan a plan then work the plan.
#4
Buy a 351W. Put an intake and headers on it.
I love the 300 and have owned 5 vehicles with the engine in them. They all ran when I parted with them.
Expecting this out of them is a bit ludacris though. I had a small bump stick and a hotter ignition in mine and proboly had 300 ftlbs of torque but only a measly 130 HP. Yes they can produce 200 HP. But unless you are set on the 300 buying a 302 or a windsor is faster and significantly cheeper.
This engine was designed to lug and pull through a load. Not spin like a nascar engine.
Please search through the threads. Many, many threads are dedicated to this subject.
I love the 300 and have owned 5 vehicles with the engine in them. They all ran when I parted with them.
Expecting this out of them is a bit ludacris though. I had a small bump stick and a hotter ignition in mine and proboly had 300 ftlbs of torque but only a measly 130 HP. Yes they can produce 200 HP. But unless you are set on the 300 buying a 302 or a windsor is faster and significantly cheeper.
This engine was designed to lug and pull through a load. Not spin like a nascar engine.
Please search through the threads. Many, many threads are dedicated to this subject.
#5
This engine was designed to lug and pull through a load. Not spin like a nascar engine.
What he said, 2X, gorsh darn lill' (gas fired) diesel.
For the 223 - Cornel Flashmaster is about the most knowledgeable 1 who stops by here frequently (we DO have a forum for that motor). Search him on the member's list, the motor on the forum list on the home page.
Let us know how U do!
What he said, 2X, gorsh darn lill' (gas fired) diesel.
For the 223 - Cornel Flashmaster is about the most knowledgeable 1 who stops by here frequently (we DO have a forum for that motor). Search him on the member's list, the motor on the forum list on the home page.
Let us know how U do!
#6
Well I've been doing some reseach and found out on my buget that 300 hp seems a little unlikey. So now i'm shooting for an honest 250 Hp witch is fine by me. Anyways these engines are built more for torque than horsepower.
Also I didn't want 302 or a 351W. I wanted to stand out a little. But don't get me wrong, the 302 and 351 are great engines. I just love these 300's. Just something about them puts a big grin on my face.
Also I didn't want 302 or a 351W. I wanted to stand out a little. But don't get me wrong, the 302 and 351 are great engines. I just love these 300's. Just something about them puts a big grin on my face.
#7
250 can be done but need machine work done at least and lots of upgrades.... no clue what mine is doing now with the stock block and what I have done 'yet' but prob spent $3000 so far on all new parts to mod it counting a few hours of labor and head work/ect..
really happy with my 300 in a heavy 3/4 ton 4x4 with 32's on it tho
tons of great info and peeps here to help ya thats for sure, and once you start mod'n thats just what it is and plenty out there to get stuff hooked up but then they will need mod'd to fit... just the way it is.
really happy with my 300 in a heavy 3/4 ton 4x4 with 32's on it tho
tons of great info and peeps here to help ya thats for sure, and once you start mod'n thats just what it is and plenty out there to get stuff hooked up but then they will need mod'd to fit... just the way it is.
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#8
I wouldn't get too caught up in HP numbers with the 300 unless you're planning on racing it. Big HP number = high RPM. There's no way to get around that equation, and high RPM means a more expensive build.
How "rebuilt" is the engine? Like with stock parts? Was the rotating assembly dynamic balanced? Things like that don't show up on the dyno but make a huge difference in longevity if you plan to regularly spin a six to 300 (or even 250) hp land.
How "rebuilt" is the engine? Like with stock parts? Was the rotating assembly dynamic balanced? Things like that don't show up on the dyno but make a huge difference in longevity if you plan to regularly spin a six to 300 (or even 250) hp land.
#9
The 300 is very much like a diesel in one regard. HP doesn't really mean much, torque is where this engine shines.
As Smokey Yunick (SP?) said, HP is for bragging rights, torque is what wins the race.
Hp is number based on torque, and happens in the upper RPM range. A 300 isn't able to operate in the RPM range where HP numbers mean anything, without doing a lot of work to the bottom end.
On the other hand, it doesn't take that much work to reach 300+ LB/FT in the 2000-3000 RPM range. Trust me, that's a bunch of pulling power. A stock 7.3L powerstroke isn't much higher than that, in the same RPM range. Those engines are well known for pulling power......
As Smokey Yunick (SP?) said, HP is for bragging rights, torque is what wins the race.
Hp is number based on torque, and happens in the upper RPM range. A 300 isn't able to operate in the RPM range where HP numbers mean anything, without doing a lot of work to the bottom end.
On the other hand, it doesn't take that much work to reach 300+ LB/FT in the 2000-3000 RPM range. Trust me, that's a bunch of pulling power. A stock 7.3L powerstroke isn't much higher than that, in the same RPM range. Those engines are well known for pulling power......
#10
I wouldn't get too caught up in HP numbers with the 300 unless you're planning on racing it. Big HP number = high RPM. There's no way to get around that equation, and high RPM means a more expensive build.
How "rebuilt" is the engine? Like with stock parts? Was the rotating assembly dynamic balanced? Things like that don't show up on the dyno but make a huge difference in longevity if you plan to regularly spin a six to 300 (or even 250) hp land.
How "rebuilt" is the engine? Like with stock parts? Was the rotating assembly dynamic balanced? Things like that don't show up on the dyno but make a huge difference in longevity if you plan to regularly spin a six to 300 (or even 250) hp land.
#11
thats not info to go on really as with no numbers for those that can help out... why the need for a engine block heater? and why the need for a rebalanced crank? what carb is on it now? ect
just wonder'n like is all
just wonder'n like is all
The extent to what the engine was rebuilt was, new piston rings, blocks been bored, head has been rebuilt with better valves, new carb, new coil, new gaskets and seals, new valve springs, and a rebalanced crank. Also the guy that I bought it from put in a engine block heater in it and also gave me a pair of glass packs.
#12
Based on what you've got, you're in decent shape. Cam, intake, headers, 2" duals and you'll be pretty happy.
If you've got some dough have a local engine builder rebalance and assemble the bottom end with some new flat top hypereutectic pistons and port the head/cut for bigger valves. Then you'll be very happy.
If you've got some dough have a local engine builder rebalance and assemble the bottom end with some new flat top hypereutectic pistons and port the head/cut for bigger valves. Then you'll be very happy.
#13
Based on what you've got, you're in decent shape. Cam, intake, headers, 2" duals and you'll be pretty happy.
If you've got some dough have a local engine builder rebalance and assemble the bottom end with some new flat top hypereutectic pistons and port the head/cut for bigger valves. Then you'll be very happy.
If you've got some dough have a local engine builder rebalance and assemble the bottom end with some new flat top hypereutectic pistons and port the head/cut for bigger valves. Then you'll be very happy.
More like 200.
Need porting, hot ignition, and OS valves. The ability to wrap it up to 5k as well.
Sorry, The 300 is not a true 250HP engine.
#14
Col. Flashman would disagree with you on that. His 300 dynoed 300hp/400tq with a relatively mild (peak hp @~4,500 rpm) cam.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post2946620
More compression and good porting work are the key. Well, that and good enough parts to ensure the engine will last.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post2946620
More compression and good porting work are the key. Well, that and good enough parts to ensure the engine will last.
#15
$10,000 in an engine build? A stock rebuild with good parts costs nearly $2000 now days.
I am not saying it is impossible or hard, it is just prohibitivly expensive.
For less than $3000 I can give you a rebuild 351 that will push those numbers. For $2000 I can give you a stock windsor with 220HP?
I realy like the 300 but once again yall acting kinda dull. Unless you realy, realy want a 250HP 300 this is a complete waste of money. You will be achiving the same thing for twice the price.
I am going to quit posting on this thread as I dont think that what I am saying is going anwhere.
I am not saying it is impossible or hard, it is just prohibitivly expensive.
For less than $3000 I can give you a rebuild 351 that will push those numbers. For $2000 I can give you a stock windsor with 220HP?
I realy like the 300 but once again yall acting kinda dull. Unless you realy, realy want a 250HP 300 this is a complete waste of money. You will be achiving the same thing for twice the price.
I am going to quit posting on this thread as I dont think that what I am saying is going anwhere.