drove my truck into the cottonwood river
#47
#48
#49
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: springfield Missouri area
Posts: 2,012
Received 131 Likes
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110 Posts
10-4 on the 80's..
Engine--- RTV the breather cap and the oil filler cap. Don't trust the paper gaskets.
Oil dip stick, be sure to seal the top some how. Take dipstick out and use a rubber hose with bolt or just a vacumn cap, be sure to use a hose clamp.
Carb I used a snorkle out the top of the hood. Some guys use dryer vent hose hooked to the snorkle on the air filter housing. Not the best but will work for ocassional use. It can suck shut though if the air volume demands are big enough though. If you are using the factory air breather, be sure to RTV all the small holes and such, I use RTV and lay a big bead aroung the carb where the gasket goes. Be sure to fill the hole where the choke rod comes through the plate at the gasket surface. If you are rgoing to do serious creeking (as we used to call it) don't forget the vent hole on the fuel pump. If not water and such will get into the hole and take out the fuel pump after a while. This one is from experience.
Distributor---Spray inside of dist. with WD-40, use dielectric silicone on the cap and base( makes for easy removal if you do drown out the dist.) Don't forget the vacumn advance pod if you have one. There are open channels where the advance rod goes into dist. I then dielectric grease all the plug wire connectiion where they plug on the cap. Spray the cap and wires with (hair spray will work or a watr proof sealer.) For serious creeking, I duct taped the dist overlapping the rows to form a cap all the way down the sides of the dist. Letting the wires come through where tehy needed to. just kept putting on strips to form a cap ( somewhat air tite so water will not infiltrate.) We just did this for Weekend creeking trips.
Axles--- For serrious creeking we ran all the vent tubes into the cab up to roof level.
for casual creeking run the vent up to the frame and make a couple of loops and zip-tie it up. The loops will act as a break so water will not go around the loops to enter the axle. Don't forget the vents on the trannys, transfer case, especially if you run an automatic. On the automatic you need to seal the dipstick too. We actually took big diesel truck dipsticks with the screw rubber seals and adapted them to our oil and tranny dipstick.
Gas tank-- we never did do anything to the tank or caps. We were running an in cab tank in our truck.
Plug wires--- like they have already mentioned spray with some sort of water proofing. Be sure to put dielectric silicone on the plug ends when you put them on.
I think that is about all. We ran the exhaust out up high, makes it run better. You can use the stock exhaust but if you stall the water will flow back into the engine. Do not attempt to start if this happens. Bent rod from experience!!
Will post some on how to take care of a water flooded engine later.
HAVE FUN CREEKING, WE DID!!!!! FOR YEARS.
Engine--- RTV the breather cap and the oil filler cap. Don't trust the paper gaskets.
Oil dip stick, be sure to seal the top some how. Take dipstick out and use a rubber hose with bolt or just a vacumn cap, be sure to use a hose clamp.
Carb I used a snorkle out the top of the hood. Some guys use dryer vent hose hooked to the snorkle on the air filter housing. Not the best but will work for ocassional use. It can suck shut though if the air volume demands are big enough though. If you are using the factory air breather, be sure to RTV all the small holes and such, I use RTV and lay a big bead aroung the carb where the gasket goes. Be sure to fill the hole where the choke rod comes through the plate at the gasket surface. If you are rgoing to do serious creeking (as we used to call it) don't forget the vent hole on the fuel pump. If not water and such will get into the hole and take out the fuel pump after a while. This one is from experience.
Distributor---Spray inside of dist. with WD-40, use dielectric silicone on the cap and base( makes for easy removal if you do drown out the dist.) Don't forget the vacumn advance pod if you have one. There are open channels where the advance rod goes into dist. I then dielectric grease all the plug wire connectiion where they plug on the cap. Spray the cap and wires with (hair spray will work or a watr proof sealer.) For serious creeking, I duct taped the dist overlapping the rows to form a cap all the way down the sides of the dist. Letting the wires come through where tehy needed to. just kept putting on strips to form a cap ( somewhat air tite so water will not infiltrate.) We just did this for Weekend creeking trips.
Axles--- For serrious creeking we ran all the vent tubes into the cab up to roof level.
for casual creeking run the vent up to the frame and make a couple of loops and zip-tie it up. The loops will act as a break so water will not go around the loops to enter the axle. Don't forget the vents on the trannys, transfer case, especially if you run an automatic. On the automatic you need to seal the dipstick too. We actually took big diesel truck dipsticks with the screw rubber seals and adapted them to our oil and tranny dipstick.
Gas tank-- we never did do anything to the tank or caps. We were running an in cab tank in our truck.
Plug wires--- like they have already mentioned spray with some sort of water proofing. Be sure to put dielectric silicone on the plug ends when you put them on.
I think that is about all. We ran the exhaust out up high, makes it run better. You can use the stock exhaust but if you stall the water will flow back into the engine. Do not attempt to start if this happens. Bent rod from experience!!
Will post some on how to take care of a water flooded engine later.
HAVE FUN CREEKING, WE DID!!!!! FOR YEARS.
#50
i like yer style moose, and i damn sure like the truck. used to have a few like this cruisin' around when i was younger. i love older style big trucks. keep the stories and info coming.
his truck:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=21239
his truck:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=21239
#54
Wicked looking truck.
He has a lot of pictures of his truck in the old albums.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - moose4x4's Album: old truck pictures
He has a lot of pictures of his truck in the old albums.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - moose4x4's Album: old truck pictures
#55
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: springfield Missouri area
Posts: 2,012
Received 131 Likes
on
110 Posts
We used to run the rivers with my 78 with dual 36's. It was teh first one on the river with duals. It was hard to get stuck, to much floatation. It would drown out every know and then. We almost lost the 78 one year when the tranny got hot and puked fluid out of the filler. Caught fire and wouldn't you know it we were about 300 yards from the ******* river. Got it out and made it back to camp. Changed the fluid and then drove her the 250 miles home pulling a trailer with all the camping gear. That is when we decided to build the Creeker. We had a blast for years. It was in Lesterville Missouri, where three forks of the Black River came together. There used to be a big gathering there during the three holiday weekends during the summer. Bigfoot used to go down there a lot but he would go on off weekends so he could have more fun. Some of his viedos were taken there.
The fabwork is over 20 years old but I'll try to take some pictures when I get a chance. Not very glamorus as comparied to some of teh fab work I have seen on this board. We just dropped teh stock spring mounts down 10 inches, Moved the rear axle all the way to back of frame. Made a plate to mount between frame for teh 4 speed to mount to. Connected teh 4 speed to the rear of the automatic with a couple of clutch centers welded and mounted to a four bolt flange like found on the rear of the early 70's c-6. Made a rear mount for the transfer case and made the driveshafts. With the automatic and 4 speed you got all kinds of gear reduction. We used teh automatic to shift and usually just put the 4 speed in one gear or another just depending what we were doing at the time. The 4 speed shifter was in the floor board between the bucket seats.
The paint job in the picture in my album is of the second design. After the initial river run in the picture with it blowing water. In the second design we pretty well had all the bugs worked out of it.
Later Moose
The fabwork is over 20 years old but I'll try to take some pictures when I get a chance. Not very glamorus as comparied to some of teh fab work I have seen on this board. We just dropped teh stock spring mounts down 10 inches, Moved the rear axle all the way to back of frame. Made a plate to mount between frame for teh 4 speed to mount to. Connected teh 4 speed to the rear of the automatic with a couple of clutch centers welded and mounted to a four bolt flange like found on the rear of the early 70's c-6. Made a rear mount for the transfer case and made the driveshafts. With the automatic and 4 speed you got all kinds of gear reduction. We used teh automatic to shift and usually just put the 4 speed in one gear or another just depending what we were doing at the time. The 4 speed shifter was in the floor board between the bucket seats.
The paint job in the picture in my album is of the second design. After the initial river run in the picture with it blowing water. In the second design we pretty well had all the bugs worked out of it.
Later Moose
#59
#60
Ya it would be cool on certain rigs... If I did it to mine, I have no idea how wide it would be... but I do know right now, that my wheeler is just as wide as my dads Dually